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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
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    Melbourne
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    471

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    G'day guys, well i just remembered i have a moto guzzi starter motor and they are reverse mount into the bellhousing just like the tatra motor and i think it is the same as the old vw beetle And yes shed that chap use the moto guzzi starter motor
    So will see if the ford ring gear will mesh with the guzzi stater if not then will have to buy a guzzi ring gear and machine up a steel disc to bolt it onto.

    6589947.jpgV8-Alfred-03-hp.jpg

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,115

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    Why did that last picture builder use the entire transaxle? Looks silly to me....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    471

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Why did that last picture builder use the entire transaxle? Looks silly to me....
    Maybe it was easy to build the bike that way What about this set up
    166170185.jpg

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,135

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Why did that last picture builder use the entire transaxle? Looks silly to me....
    I agree Joe, problem is that sensibillity and practicality is over-riden by some sort of demented artistic flair that manifests a POS that cannot be riden and only serves to the purpose of a testament of the designers stupidity 😉

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,135

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbine Builder View Post
    Maybe it was easy to build the bike that way What about this set up
    166170185.jpg
    Dunno what you have in mind Turbs but the moto guzzi and bmw options would probably be your best chance of getting a functional bike on the road, most of the engineering is already done so you will only really need the modifications signed off, talk to a motor engineer before you start as it will save you time work and money.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    471

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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Dunno what you have in mind Turbs but the moto guzzi and bmw options would probably be your best chance of getting a functional bike on the road, most of the engineering is already done so you will only really need the modifications signed off, talk to a motor engineer before you start as it will save you time work and money.
    Hi Shed, yep have already got a guzzi gear box, complete guzzi clutch, stater motor I found a motor engineer in Bayswater will contact him latter on and if the motor cycle project is a no go then a three wheel; trike build i have a bit of experience building one already

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,135

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    Quote Originally Posted by Turbine Builder View Post
    Hi Shed, yep have already got a guzzi gear box, complete guzzi clutch, stater motor I found a motor engineer in Bayswater will contact him latter on and if the motor cycle project is a no go then a three wheel; trike build i have a bit of experience building one already
    Turbs you are missing a big % of a motorcycle and all those odds and ends will take time and be hard to find and also quickly add up $$$$, i reckon you would be better to grab something like this https://www.bikedomain.com.au/listin...=641ecb726356c or https://www.bikedomain.com.au/listin...=641ecb726356c and you can sell the engine, or maybe you might get lucky if you keep an eye on the damaged bike auctions https://www.manheim.com.au/damaged-vehicles/6632977/2020-bmw-r1250rs-motorcycle?referringPage=SearchResults
    but talk to the engineer first to make sure you are making the right decisions before you start buying...

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    471

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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Turbs you are missing a big % of a motorcycle and all those odds and ends will take time and be hard to find and also quickly add up $$$$, i reckon you would be better to grab something like this https://www.bikedomain.com.au/listin...=641ecb726356c or https://www.bikedomain.com.au/listin...=641ecb726356c and you can sell the engine, or maybe you might get lucky if you keep an eye on the damaged bike auctions https://www.manheim.com.au/damaged-vehicles/6632977/2020-bmw-r1250rs-motorcycle?referringPage=SearchResults
    but talk to the engineer first to make sure you are making the right decisions before you start buying...
    Hi Shed, i have a complete 76 honda goldwing rolling frame plus the guzzi parts that i will need to fit to the motor. I can't stop now and yes it will take time it will take 3 to 4 years to finish the build and already spent $$$$ on importing the tatra motors and parts and if the engineer says no then it will be a show bike

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    471

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    OK found a stater and flywheel off a subaru this spins in the right direction I could only match up two of the threaded holes on the boss that i machine up and drill two holes into the flywheel to mate with them. I need to find a M16 left hand thread bolt and nut to use to bolt into the centre of the flywheel with a cap plate, gave it a bump test all good Tact weld a couple of hot dogs on the exhaust pipes.

    IMG_9374.jpgIMG_9375.jpgIMG_9372.jpgIMG_9373.jpg

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
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    471

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    DID SOME TESTS ON THE OIL COOLERS TODAY, ALL GOOD😁 ONLY GETTING AIR LEAKS WERE THE BOLTS ARE. DID USE NEW COPPER SEALING RINGS BUT HAD TO REALLY TIGHTEN THE BOLT AND NUT DOWN TO STOP THE AIR LEAKS. THE SECOUND OIL COOLER I HAD SOME trouble GETTING THE BOLT AND NUT TO SEAL, SO annealed copper RINGS THAT WORK A BIT THERE IS SOME SMALL BUBBLES COMING OUT. I SET THE AIR PRESSUR TO 35 PSI, I WONDER IF I CAN USE FIBER SEALING RINGS

    IMG_9439.jpgIMG_9440.jpgIMG_9442.jpgIMG_9443.jpgIMG_9445.jpgIMG_9446.jpgIMG_9447.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images

  11. #41
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Bendigo
    Age
    60
    Posts
    436

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    What is the condition of the face that the copper washer seals to?
    Possibly needs to be machined flat ?

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    471

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    Quote Originally Posted by droog View Post
    What is the condition of the face that the copper washer seals to?
    Possibly needs to be machined flat ?
    THE CONDITION OF THE PORTS LOOK GOOD, I USE A FLAT FILE TO FILE THE SURFACE A BIT. I THINK I KNOW WHY IT'S NOT SEALING AS WELL, WILL MODIFIED THE BOLTS AS THE THREADS ARE NOT LONG enough THERE IS ABOUT 2MM OF THE SHANK STICKING OUT THAT MIGHT BE THE ISSUE. I HAD TO USE THREAD TAPE AS WELL AIR WAS LEAKING PASS THE THREADS ON THE BOLT. YOU THINK SOME Loctite 542 hydraulic sealer WOULD HELP

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    Southern Highlands NSW
    Posts
    1,907

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    Bonded rubber-steel seals could be tried.
    Dowty is best known, other brands are Stat-o-seal, Usit, Trelleborg.

    With these, the oil resistant rubber cannot be overly crushed.

  14. #44
    Join Date
    Oct 2016
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    471

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    Quote Originally Posted by nadroj View Post
    Bonded rubber-steel seals could be tried.
    Dowty is best known, other brands are Stat-o-seal, Usit, Trelleborg.

    With these, the oil resistant rubber cannot be overly crushed.
    Hi nadroj, thanks for that info the parts manual says copper seals, i think why i am getting leaks is the bolts i am using.
    Tab-08_jpg.jpg

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