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  1. #31
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    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Hey Commander i had swapped the polarity to DCEN and i maxed out the wire feed and it still welded like bird poo zap.. zap.. zap.. just black blobs of weld

    That is when i upped the wire feed and it kept zapping and burning the wire back

    I would have tried the synergic setting for flux core but i didnt want to go off the main synergic setting and possibly have the machine remember the off setting rather than reset

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
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    5,695

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Hey Commander i had swapped the polarity to DCEN and i maxed out the wire feed and it still welded like bird poo zap.. zap.. zap.. just black blobs of weld

    That is when i upped the wire feed and it kept zapping and burning the wire back

    I would have tried the synergic setting for flux core but i didnt want to go off the main synergic setting and possibly have the machine remember the off setting rather than reset
    You swapped the polarity to DCEN and maxed out the wire feed and it still welded like bird poo zap.. zap.. zap.. just black blobs of weld.
    Then having maxed out the wire feed.You then state you upped the wire feed.

    Explain to me how is this possible? Maxed out indicates clearly that there can be no further movement left, but you go on to say you again upped the wire feed

    Also know that the rest of the welding world is using Electrode Postive on FCAW. The instances where Electrode positive is in very heavy work-ship building and the like.
    The problem you describe just screams that there is a burn back defect brought on by your crazy settings you have set on the machine .

    A better machine will not help you when you have not taken the trouble to understand the basics of setting and adjustments of the process you are using.

    For flux core work WIRE FEED dial settings and VOLTAGE dial are set carefully as create a "sweet spot" where the the wire will burn to maximum efficiency.
    As well
    Clean the Earth return clamp to job contact,
    Ensure you are running the correct drive wheels,
    Clean out or replace the liner (usually cleaning and blowing it out with an airline weld is sufficient.
    There MUST be an easy flow of the wire through the liner. Check all areas from the spring tension on the rolls, through the liner cable -no bends or dents in the liner to the gun making sure the contact tip is clean and sized OK. There MUST be no drag on the wire feed.

    Keep wire stick out at around 30mm

    Also Drag the gun for FCAW. The gun is pushed for hard wire and dragged for FCAW.

    Also when you are seeking help it sure helps a lot if you give the wire diameter and type being used.

    Grahame

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,375

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    Quote Originally Posted by Grahame Collins View Post
    You swapped the polarity to DCEN and maxed out the wire feed and it still welded like bird poo zap.. zap.. zap.. just black blobs of weld.
    Then having maxed out the wire feed.You then state you upped the wire feed.

    Explain to me how is this possible? Maxed out indicates clearly that there can be no further movement left, but you go on to say you again upped the wire feed

    Also know that the rest of the welding world is using Electrode Postive on FCAW. The instances where Electrode positive is in very heavy work-ship building and the like.
    The problem you describe just screams that there is a burn back defect brought on by your crazy settings you have set on the machine .

    A better machine will not help you when you have not taken the trouble to understand the basics of setting and adjustments of the process you are using.

    For flux core work WIRE FEED dial settings and VOLTAGE dial are set carefully as create a "sweet spot" where the the wire will burn to maximum efficiency.
    As well
    Clean the Earth return clamp to job contact,
    Ensure you are running the correct drive wheels,
    Clean out or replace the liner (usually cleaning and blowing it out with an airline weld is sufficient.
    There MUST be an easy flow of the wire through the liner. Check all areas from the spring tension on the rolls, through the liner cable -no bends or dents in the liner to the gun making sure the contact tip is clean and sized OK. There MUST be no drag on the wire feed.

    Keep wire stick out at around 30mm

    Also Drag the gun for FCAW. The gun is pushed for hard wire and dragged for FCAW.

    Also when you are seeking help it sure helps a lot if you give the wire diameter and type being used.

    Grahame
    Settle Grahame, i upped the wire feed just the once to max think it went to 12m/min hence i thought something was wrong in DCEN so i swapped it back to DCEP and it ran nice welds or it was atlease weldable

    I used the same wire speed and voltage in both DCEN and DCEP i had just turned up the wire feed on DCEP because it was showing signs of a low feed rate for the voltage hence the zap zap zap

    The picture of the spool should show its .9mm wire there is no setting for .9mm wire so i had to enter manual mode like a regular mig welder, i did enter program 188 which is GMAW so maybe that was my problem i just realised that stands for gas metal arc welding.. bugger!!

    I will try job/program 171 that is for flux core 1mm wire just i'll fine tune it for .9mm wire

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    OK first time today reading a chart like this pictured.. i got it all mixed up, just reading the chart now the correct way

    I have E71T-11 .9mm wire so i need job 172

    I have never read a chart like this before so i got it wrong i will update tomorrow
    Attached Images Attached Images

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    433

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    I got the same machine mate, I said it before. Trust me, I'm professional.

    Short of the knurled / toothed rollers that you probably are not running with that machine, and having the correct feed roll tension (which doesn't need to be much at all- just enough to feed and no more).
    You then need to ensure the correct polarity which would need to be changed to suit the specific recommendations of the wire you are running... Some self shielded wires are to be run electrode positive (electrode = MIG contact tip), some electrode negative. The short pigtail lead on that machine is the mig torch polarity- put it in the correct port, and the earth in the other.

    After all that, you should be able to run the synergic job for the 0.8mm wire, and use the right side voltage trim knob to add a bit more heat / volts to the situation. Even run it at 0 volt trim on the 0.8mm settings to get ball-park - 0.1mm is a good difference in the machining world, but welding... not so much.

    And if you can manage to weld on something other than scrap, you will get much more acceptable results. Grind, clean, repeat, get a good earth etc.

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    945

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    Set you wire feed speed and then adjust your trim/volts while you are welding till it sounds good.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Yeah i have it all sorted thanks guys i wss reading the whole chart as one but i now see the chart is split into 3 sections, there are no polarity drawing on the chart so that was confusing also hence i tried both ways but where i fell short was i was in GMAW setting and running flux core

    I will give it a go shortly and post results

    Thanks again

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
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    Done around 12 welds on flat bar but kept blowing holes or tge welds were too cold i couldnt find that sweet spot untill the last weld than i ran a open outside corner weld and nailed the settings perfect

    Material is 2.5mm steel flat bar, alot of people say flux core is crap because there welds look horrible, well look at this weld from a quality machine very very impressed

    Settings were 5.5m/min 17volts
    Attached Images Attached Images

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    945

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    Maybe try.doing a fillet tee joint and post a photo of that.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,375

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    Hey guys im right in the thick of the lockdown from the virus my area is a hot spot so im unable to go pick up some aluminium i have also ran out of grinder cutting disc i have half a sheet of 4mm aluminum but no way of cutting it up

    Can someone recommend a shop thats currently open that does home delivery, i want to order either 6 pieces of 150x4mm square sheet/flat bar or 12 pieces if the cutting fees are cheap

    My local guy is in lockdown non essentials so likely closed and a bit pricey 100x100x4mm 6 pieces is $53 delivered from 30mins away

    Looking to weld two cubes to dial in my machines one will be tig welded using the AIG 200 TIG ghe second box will be pulse mig welded to see which one im better at before i build a outboard pod for my tinny (will only be holding a 30hp engine)

  11. #41
    Join Date
    May 2020
    Location
    s.w. sydney
    Posts
    38

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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    I want something a bit more fancy a machine that can improve my shakey hands and run a better appearing weld kind of more smoother welds with less imput by me

    The unimig is great but i have only ever used cheap machines, i had an esab caddy 155 the big transformer box on wheels now that machine was silky smooth welding aluminium but the machine was big and heavy

    A
    good luck with that, a MORE EXPENSE weld won,t help that, maybe you should be buying a stronger bourbon . calm those shaking hands, only joking mate.

    bang for your buck, the uni mig wins. i have the 200 ac/dc plus two more 240v units, plus an old 375 three phase mig, that was flooded and survived, still goes great. parts avalible in Australia. but new machines are chinese now.
    but usa brands are great, no question , but very expense.

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