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  1. #1
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    Default Bridgeport Oil System Pipe

    The oil system pipes on my Bridgeport are brittle and snap when looked at. Is there a particular type of pipe I need to buy and an Australian source? I think it is 4mm OD and 0.8mm wall thickness or thereaouts.

    Cheers

  2. #2
    elanjacobs is online now Apprentice gear maker and machine doctor
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  3. #3
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    Default

    You could also look at Bundy tubing, which is what is used as brake tubing for trailers etc.
    Set it up and never have to worry about it.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #4
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    Have a talk to BL Shipway.

    Michael

  5. #5
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Mk1_Oz View Post
    The oil system pipes on my Bridgeport are brittle and snap when looked at. Is there a particular type of pipe I need to buy and an Australian source? I think it is 4mm OD and 0.8mm wall thickness or thereaouts.
    I've got the same problem with my BP. US company H&W Machine Repair (www.machinerypartsdepot.com) have a kit but I can't seem to find it at the moment. They are always helpful and responsive if you email them.

    Charles

  6. #6
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    BL Shipway should be able to sort you out.

  7. #7
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    Default

    I did think of H&W but will find something local as it is only a low pressure oil resistent tube.

    Cheers all

  8. #8
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    Aug 2015
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    Mk1_Oz, 4mm OD 2.5mm ID (clear) polyurethane tube - at least that is what it was for a UK built BP. The oilers are a different brand to the US ones, but hopefully they are the same size. I have some left over after my (UK) BP rebuild.

    Figure out what length you need and PM me. Charles. Same. Let me know what you need.

    Greg.

    EDIT: FWIW, I am pretty sure this is it: https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/air-hose/9172407/. It was not stocked locally, it came from the UK in the end.

  9. #9
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    Default

    I will dig through my draws. Might even have something like that already. Cheers

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    Some info for Charles (PM's seem not to permit images and we were discussing oilers).

    There are two different values of oil meters. Each is supposed to meter a given amount of oil to a specific place per oil pump. Parts and meterage shown here: https://www.machinerypartsdepot.com/...57/page/705249. On saddle / table dissasembly, note where each pipe goes. They have a 'memory' in shape so that helps, but, do them one at a time and put a label on the hose as you go.

    If oil is not getting to its ultimate destination then there are multiple things to check:

    * oil lines might be broken.
    * The pump may not be working - which is easy to test - undo the outlet pipe, give it a pump and see what happens.
    * The ends of the outlet pipes themselves may be clogged - especially the ones that go to the ways. Crud is kind of forced into the oil outlet hole from the ways and blocks the oil from coming out. That 'force' keeps pushing the crud back up the oil lines
    * the oil meters may be blocked. Crud from either way may block them. The crud being 'forced' into the lines from the ways can actually work its way all the way back up to the meters.

    In my case, it was all four of the above! )

    The actual oil meters themselves are fairly robust and, if you're careful, can be dismantled and cleaned to be like new. It is not entirely obvious, but the oil meters are actually an assembly. The tops and bottom 'caps' are a press fit. Here are the only photos I have of the assembly. Sorry it does not show both caps. Not great pics, but you can see the parts and get the idea. Hopefully. Maybe.

    IMG_20180603_123046.jpgIMG_20180603_123112.jpg

    I am going from memory here, so don't sue me if it is not quite correct.

    At one end (under the cap) they have a threaded rod that I think limits the oil going through it. It does not thread into anything - it is just a tight fit in a bore, but the oil finds its way around the thread. The other end has a 'filter' ish .. subassembly inside of it. With a torch, if you look into the ends, you'll see which has the filter. The 'filter', if I recall, has small and fiddly stuff inside of it like a tiny spring and ball detent. I _think_ it controls the meterage - not 100% sure. You do not want to damage the filter.

    To dismantle, you can put a small diameter punch in the end that has the threaded rod and knock stuff out the other end. If you choose the wrong end you'll ruin the small 'filter' that is in place. Ask me how I know.

    When they get full of gunk and clog that filter and internal threaded rod then, without disassembly, a soak in <name you favourite solvent or fragrant bath salts> will likely have zero effect. Probably even a Carly Simon record will be powerless. I also sonic cleaned them in solvent - no cigar. Either replace, or dismantle and clean. You do not need to disassemble the filter sub-assembly. Soak it, clean it, blow it with air, etc etc.

    All meters on my machine were clogged with gunk. If I recall, I ruined two learning how they came apart.

    If your pump is working, a great way to test each meter is to screw the meter unit directly into the outlet port of the pump and give the pump a go - no oil = meter clogged. My pump output had the same thread as the meters so I figure this is usual.

    Those oiler meters are like $25 AUD or so + postage, so, if you're careful, you can restore them and save a few bucks.

    Hopefully that helps - feel free to ask questions, if I can help I will.

    Greg.

    <slurp>

  11. #11
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    Thanks Greg, that was interesting. For some reason, I had thought the metering units were just crimped to impede the flow. I'll wait for warmer weather before having a go at my BP oil system.

    Charles

  12. #12
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    Went to BL Shipway today and got some pipe. They only had 2 olives though so I might not be changing all the pipe just yet!

  13. #13
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    Good o. Well done. Something makes me think I reused my existing olives where I replaced pipe...

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