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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2018
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    99

    Default

    I'm no expert, but I'm not usually looking at the position of the rod to the weld puddle. I'm also looking at how the weld wets the edge of the joint.
    I'll preface this all with the quality of the helmet gives a world of difference here.
    If you can forego the autochange function, a decent fixed shade gold coated omni-view lens and pipeliner helmet can be had for under 50 clams. A well timed flick of the outer lens is not to be underestimated. Most sub $300 autochange helmets are rubbish IMO. Even more so if it's a model where you are supplied with 1 set of inner and outer lenses, with no hope of getting more.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,110

    Default

    That is exactly what i see, the ripples behind the arc and i think that is the weld pool height and width than when i finish and knock off the slag its no where that size so its kind of hard to judge while welding how the weld will appear for me, kind of like when u let the slag cool and crack like waiting for a Christmas present as a kid untill u break it openand either go wooha or nahhh lol i guess i will keep practicing if i do pick up a better appearance i nthe bead tomorrow i'll check in with pics

    Edit: Hey Com my helmet is just a cheapie mate its this one https://www.nationalwelding.com.au/w...r-with-led-j61 i have not had much luck with helmets my first one was from ebay the pets chewed it up, the one above is my second one the dogs chewed that one as well when it was 2 days old and cost like $80 i was guttered than had to salvage the head harness from the old one onto the new one

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    49
    Posts
    685

    Default

    6013 GP rods generally have very runny slag and if your electrode angle is too steep the slag can get in front of the weld which is a common cause of inclusions. These are similar to what you have on the left end of your last photo, although I suspect that was caused by a bit of slag left in the corner of the previous run. If you're doing a high build pass with 6013 rods, keep your electrode angle below 45 degrees where possible and the arc force will keep the slag behind the weld.
    You can weld over rust with stick but you will get better results, including easier strikes, if you clean the weld area. Twenty seconds cleaning with a grinder before a weld beats five minutes grinding out cocky crap all day long in my book. For restarts, make sure you give the previous run a good wire brush first to remove any stray lumps of slag.
    Keep up the good work.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Sydney, NSW, Australia
    Posts
    1,110

    Default

    Thanks Greg im taking notes, i had cut off the cold mig welds before i stick welded it so it was a little clean but not entirely perfect and yeah i hear about the runny slag i tried welding down hill on maybe 10 degrees the slag just made a mess i than welded up hill 10 degrees and it was very easy to keep the slag from running

    I kind of like this arc welding wish i had a decent machine years ago i am actually seeing positive results that i can actually stick weld just need practice

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