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  1. #46
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    Sep 2012
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    North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Kryn, Guys,

    Thankyou for the picture, mine has a grub screw buried in there !

    I agree with your comment about POC ! When they made these things they didn't take a lot of care. I quickly realised that with all the different threaded bolts that have been used. Apart from the very good castings, all the rest is mostly tin.

    Doing a full refurbishment gives me the opportunity to modify things and to repair things that have been done to cut costs. Like that hole for the vise feed screw, it actually points down slightly, so that when tightening the moving jaw it pulls the lead screw up towards the bed. I've given the top of the hole on the inside a rub with a round file and its a lot better.

    It could really do with milling square and a sleeve pressed in. Unfortunately I don't have a machine that I could use to do that. And I still need to find a source for some 1" inch square tube for the stand.

    Thanks to everybody contributing help and advice. I hadn't really anticipated the scale of work required to refurbish this machine.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #47
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    51
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    508

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    I bought all new bearings for mine a few weeks back feeling sorry for it, but haven't put them in. In 25 years I've only ever replaced 2 bearings and a few little mods.

    I totally rebuilt my 7x12 about 2 months ago that I've only owned for 6/7 years and never used. I resurfaced the bed etc, then looked over at my trusty 100x115mm and think it's time to do the same to it.
    It was old when I bought it and has served me so well cutting everything from 3mm flat bar to 160mm round solid and I beam.

    I was thinking the bigger saw would take it's place, but the jaws need extending along with so much more to even come close what a 6x4 can do, my little bandsaw is going no where any time soon.
    Using Tapatalk

  3. #48
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    51
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    Just to add, I milled either side of the casting slot underneath on the 7x12, it was out a fair amount end to end, also needed relieving in a couple of places to allow full movement.
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  4. #49
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    4,870

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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    By the time you have this machine running, it'll be a piece of precision machinery, not a thrown together POC. (Piece Of Crap).
    I like the way that you've gone about it all, very methodical. Wonder how many of us will go through our machines now to rectify existing problems.
    Kryn
    Speaking for myself,the planned upgrades to my BS4A shall be the fitting of a Hydraulic downfeed cylinder and the replacement of the worm drive oil.
    In some of the old Yahoo 6 x 4 Horizontal B/saw forum threads some discussion was held on the oil which some of the bandsaws were manufactured with.

    If I have understood it correctly,the wrong oils were used and the sulphur in those oil eroded or corroded the brass gear. It has been a gunadoo for a long time now, but I shall not tempt fate or Murphy's law for much longer. Also a coolant tank has to be made. I saved a drain pump from an old washing machine for it but think it might be overkill.
    If I have gone that far it will be only fitting to give it a fresh coat of paint.

    Grahame

  5. #50
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    4,870

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    If its of any interest the proper brass compatible worm drive oil is a GL-4 type 85 -140 wt.

    I checked the oil I had purchased and in the tiniest of text was GL-5 Oh dear?

  6. #51
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Just to add, I milled either side of the casting slot underneath on the 7x12, it was out a fair amount end to end, also needed relieving in a couple of places to allow full movement.
    Hi Dave,

    Yes there was a couple of lumps of casting that had not been fettled properly, I just rubbed them off with a file. I reckon that the vise has not been opened that far, as the nut wouldn't have gone past them.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #52
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Grahame, Guys,

    I did examine the oil in that gearbox, its quite clean without any debris in there, and the rubber gasket is undamaged, so I've just fastened it all back up. There are no oil leaks anywhere not even through the bearings under the covers.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #53
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
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    Thumbs up Todays findings !

    Hi Guys,

    I've now got the new plates made and fitted to the tensioner slide. Just a fraction of play in there now, a spot of oil when I've finished and all is well.

    18-08-2019_001.JPG 18-08-2019_003.JPG 18-08-2019_004.jpg
    The old and the new guide plates side by side, and a picture from the control knob end. I'm quite pleased with the way this has turned out. That tensioner block slides back and forth smoothly without any sticking anywhere. And absolutely no wobbling. I didn't put the shim washers back either. I'm certain that it doesn't need them. I think that they were put in to stop the wheel rubbing the casting.

    18-08-2019_005.jpg 18-08-2019_006.jpg 18-08-2019_007.jpg
    In an earlier post I tried to measure the runout or wobble of the tensioner wheel. So I set it up on its bearing pin using the drill press vise and my trusty Batty 1/2 thou gauge. A full rotation shows a maximum of 1thou runout. I didn't bother taking any pictures of the measurement on the edge of the rim, since the gauge needle barely moved.

    I've come to the conclusion that the amount of play in the tensioner was responsible for the bad readings that I got when trying to measure it in place. I'll recheck it when I've got it reassembled.

    I'm looking forward to tomorrow, Monday to see if I can get some material for the stand.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #54
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
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    51
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    508

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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Dave,

    Yes there was a couple of lumps of casting that had not been fettled properly, I just rubbed them off with a file. I reckon that the vise has not been opened that far, as the nut wouldn't have gone past them.
    My 7x12 had been well used, it had a groove across the bed and I also noticed the vise screw well worn in the first section.

    It has a quick release nut which after use I've found to slip close in, so I'll either need to make a new leadscrew or a full nut.
    Not fussed on the quick release myself.
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  10. #55
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Dave,

    I've seen those quick release vise things. A couple of friends of mine have had problems with theirs, one on a bandsaw and one on a 6" inch record bench vise. The bench vise one had simply sprung apart loosing its springs and allowing the clasp nut to fall off. The bandsaw I don't know, its had a great deal of use, so I suspect the nut or leadscrew or both are badly worn, it doesn't start to work until you are about seven or eight inches back.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #56
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2,530

    Thumbs up Stand Drawing.

    Hi Guys,

    I've finished the drawing for the stand. For some reason it has not reversed the background to white and the lines to black.

    Bandsaw stand-01.jpg
    If anyone wants further info, let me know.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #57
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    51
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    508

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    Today my neighbour gave me the side from the outside part split system air conditioner, which will make a perfect tray for my 6x4 bandsaw.
    Anyone thinking of running coolant and needing a tray these are the perfect size.
    Using Tapatalk

  13. #58
    BobL is online now Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
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    5,068

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Today my neighbour gave me the side from the outside part split system air conditioner, which will make a perfect tray for my 6x4 bandsaw.
    Anyone thinking of running coolant and needing a tray these are the perfect size.
    Just heads up that the tray needs to extend a a couple of inches past the back of the saw otherwise when the arm is lifted into the upright position coolant can dribbls off the arm onto the floor.

    IMG_6159.jpg

    IMG_6158.jpg

  14. #59
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    Dec 2013
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    Yeah, at the moment I have a gutter on the side with a catch drain at the back.
    This tray is 900mm long,so plenty of tray to have it out the back.
    Using Tapatalk

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