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  1. #181
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    56
    Posts
    5,815

    Default

    Can you fold up some sheet metal into say a hexagonal or octagonal shape (or even square if you want to be boring...). Join two halves with a strap across the joint and some tapped screws or similar either side? if you have some rollers and a TIG set you may even be able to roll your own (round tube).

    Michael

  2. #182
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Hi Michael,

    That's a thought ! I do have some 12" inch wide rolls and a couple of computer case side panels kicking about.
    Thanks for giving the old grey stuff a prod.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #183
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    69
    Posts
    2,892

    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post

    This is what happens when you drop the grinding wheel onto a tiled floor !
    I'll let you put your own expletives in here. Mine are unfit for publication.
    That'll polish right out Baron.
    Just ignore it. The rest of the wheel will work just fine.


    It looks like the spindle is geared down from the 2800rpm. If so, if it does throw bits, they will no do you any harm....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  4. #184
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    Thank you for your encouraging comments.

    That tile saw motor runs the output shaft a just over 10K when on 240 Volts AC. Its a lot nicer when run on 65 volts DC !

    Yes I'll give the wheel a spin and see if any bits fly off.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #185
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Thumbscrew !

    Hi Guys,

    I got around to making a thumbscrew for the work holding collet chuck yesterday. I had a piece of bronze bar that I picked up at a workshop locally. It was 25 mm round and just about 30 mm long, not a lot of use so it had ended up in the scrap bin. I was surprised by how tough it seems to be, it quickly takes the edge off your lathe tool.

    I chucked it up in the three jaw chuck and turned it down to 6 mm diameter for a distance of 12 mm. After which I single point threaded it M6, using my Chinese internal threading bar. I ran the lathe in reverse and threaded away from the chuck at about 600 rpm, keeping the half nut closed and winding back by hand to take further cuts. I used a nut to check thread depth, because I forgot to note the dial reading. So the last two or three passes were only a couple of thou.

    03-03-2020-004.JPG 03-03-2020-003.JPG

    I had just enough material to be able to turn the workpiece around and grip it in the chuck and part it off to leave me with a 12 mm thick knob. After parting off I put a threaded mandrel in the chuck jaws and screwed the thumbscrew into it. Doing this gave me enough room to skim a few mm off and knurl the outer rim. A quick touch from a "V" shaped lathe tool to put a chamfer on each edge.

    03-03-2020-002.JPG 03-03-2020-001.JPG

    This is the thumbscrew in place in the collect holder. I didn't take any pictures, but the collet shaft is gripped firmly by the thumbscrew.

    The next job is to make the collets for the knobs used to manipulate the lead screws on the X - Y table and the knob for the worm wheel worm.

    More to follow Guys !
    Thanks for the comments and suggestions, its nice to know you are watching.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #186
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Knob collet !

    Hi Guys,

    Not much to add at the moment other than a revised drawing for the knob fixing collets.

    6mm Collet.png
    I've adjusted the dimensions a little and added the fixing nut to the drawing. The nut I've shown is a pin type because I want to fit it into a recess in the knob. I need to make a jig to drill the pin holes and a spanner to suit. This drawing shows a 6 mm collet bore, but the same dimensions can be used for the 5 mm one.

    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #187
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,757

    Default

    Hi John, that collet is going to be fun to make.
    Are you going to make the 8mm end first then screw that into an 8mm bore with a thread at the end to hold it to then do the taper and slits in the other end?
    Or......whats your plan?

  8. #188
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Hi John,

    Thank you for your reply, I had thought that I was going to be on my own making this item.

    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    Hi John, that collet is going to be fun to make.
    Are you going to make the 8mm end first then screw that into an 8mm bore with a thread at the end to hold it to then do the taper and slits in the other end?
    Or......whats your plan?
    Well I was thinking of holding the whole length of bar in a square collet block and slitting the end first using the mill, then transfer it to the lathe, to turn the taper and body, then single pointing the M8 X 1 thread. Part it off, leaving the drilling till last. Then do the drilling from the threaded end using the soft jaws.

    As you say fun time . Unless you can suggest another way.

    I think that the hard part would be the drilling of the slitted part, which is why I thought that going in and drilling from the threaded end would be best.

    The only other way that I can think of, is to drill a 20 mm long piece, place it in a square collet block to slit it, then mount it on a mandrel to do the taper, body and threads.

    I'm 100% open to any suggestions !

    The material I have for the collet is 20 mm brass bar. At least I think its brass, its very hard and dark yellow, like the thumb screw material which I know was bronze.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #189
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    56
    Posts
    5,815

    Default

    I think I would turn the outside and drill the bore. Then, make up a (sacraficial) tapered seating block & a plug for the ID (perhaps from aluminium?). Fit those and do the slits last of all.
    As soon as you put the slits in, you run the risk of kicking things off line or grabbing the tool

    Michael

  10. #190
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,757

    Default

    John you are not going to have much meat between the root of the thread and the bore.

    8 x .75 mm male thread has a minor dia of 7.080 - 6 / 2 = 0.54 mm wall thickness from thread to bore.
    https://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadmf.htm

    8 x 1.25 mm male thread has a minor dia of
    6.466 - 6 / 2 = 0.233 mm wall thickness from thread to bore.
    https://www.newmantools.com/tech/threadm.htm

    Is there any way you can increase that 8mm diameter or reduce the bore dia?


  11. #191
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Hi John,

    Argh, I knew it was wrong somehow

    You know the feeling you get when it should be obvious that something is not quite right but you can't put your finger on it.

    Thank you for the reality check, I'll increase the diameter to 9 mm, that should be OK. There are three collets to be made one with a 6 mm bore and two with a 5 mm bore.

    I have a set of M9 X 1 taps as well as M8. I was just going to drill tapping size in the lathe and thread about 20 mm deep then part off three nuts ready for drilling the 2 mm pin holes. I've almost finished the jig for doing those.

    I'll take pictures tomorrow of it.

    Thanks for the links as well. I'll go and look at them.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #192
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    1,757

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi John,
    You know the feeling you get when it should be obvious that something is not quite right but you can't put your finger on it.
    I sure do, for me its getting worse as time marches on......... I am not looking forward to when I cant hold my fluids and have to play lawn bowls for entertainment

    Aside from all that your drawing worked perfectly, we found a problem before you started cutting metal and it is a lot easier
    to change a line or a measurement on paper

  13. #193
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Default

    Hi John, Guys,

    Yes I agree ! Its nice to know that someone spotted a problem and was kind enough to alert me to it.

    I modified the drawing last night after reading your note.

    6mm Collet.png
    Here it is. I've increased the diameter of the body to 9 mm and moved the pin holes in the fastening nut out by half a mm. I'll take pictures of the pin hole drilling jig later this morning and post them.

    Thanks:
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #194
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    4,774

    Thumbs up Drilling Jig !

    Hi Guys,

    Here are the pictures that I promised of the drilling jig that will be used to drill the 2 mm diameter pin holes in the plate nuts used for fastening the knob securing collet. The plate nuts will be turned to size in the lathe and threaded before parting off to thickness. A single nut will be placed in the cavity and the top piece fastened over it to hold it in place preventing it from moving whilst drilling.

    07-03-2020-004.JPG 07-03-2020-005.JPG

    The jig is made from a 20 mm thick chunk of mild steel plate about 35 mm by 45 mm. I've not yet done a drawing for this jig. The top plate is a piece that was just sawn of the top on the bandsaw and is 4 mm thick. I've not bothered machining it, just given it a rub on some emery cloth to remove any burrs. You can see the marks from the bandsaw blade in the surface.


    07-03-2020-002.jpg

    The top plate was marked out and the holes for the M6 cap screws drilled to match the threaded holes in the block, along with the three holes for the plate nut pin holes. The centre hole was used to ensure that the pin holes were centred in the cavity that will hold the plate for drilling.

    07-03-2020-001.jpg 07-03-2020-003.jpg

    The 3 mm deep cavity was bored using the mill. After making the cavity I drilled a 9 mm diameter hole in the middle so that a threaded tool could be used to remove the plate nut after it had been drilled.

    Normally I would have used silver steel for the drill guide and hardened it, but since this is unlikely to get a lot of use I didn't bother.

    I've yet to make the spanner to tighten the plate nut. But that is a job for later on.

    Thanks for looking
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #195
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    343

    Default

    Just wondering why you went for a collet system to secure the knobs to the lead screws - do you intend to make the knobs easy to reset to an index mark.

    I have a bunch of instrument knobs (salvaged from old electronic equipment) that use the same method to secure them to a shaft.

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