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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Dec 2019
    Location
    Sydney
    Age
    68
    Posts
    26

    Default

    Here's my little box trailer as promised. Fully galvanized for longevity although I have over-painted the draw-bar black.

    The draw-bar is deliberately long to accommodate the length of our (now sold) sailing skiff.

    This thing tows beautifully, the rubber suspension causes it to bounce a bit when empty and I've noticed it in the back window a few times.

    Every joint has been sealed with a bead of Silastic and the two cross beads on the bottom of the tray stop drumming.

    The tray is a single piece of 4' x 6' 16g galv sheet, bent up 10" to form the sides and and 1" and a bit turned over the 1" square steel frame to finish off. The offcuts from the 4' x 8' sheet that I purchased have been similarly bent over to form the front and back panels. All the sheet has been attached using Sikaflex. As you can see, I keep a sheet of 3/8" ply in it to protect the base from impact damage.

    The electrics are clipped externally so that they can will drip dry readily and can be maintained, and there are no electrics on the tailgate, so that it can be removed at will.

    Two small triangular frames have been included below the sides at the back so that when the trailer is 'grounded' when tipping, something tends to dig in, and also protects the bottom edges of the mudguards and the taillights. This trailer, was built in 1994, and lives outside.

    I grafted a set of Holden axles into the Alko trailing arms (the originals were really stubby and took proprietary German bearings) and fitted hubs with a 4 bolt x 4" PCD to take Honda Civic wheels - the same as the tow vehicle to negate the need to carry a trailer spare as well as the car one.

    The side tie-bars are 5/8" rebar (because I had some) and it works remarkably well - nothing slips on it. I neglected tie-bars in the front and back in favour of short lengths of aircraft floor track, so that the front and rear panels take little load. The main frame is pallet racking - nice and light and remarkably strong.

    4' x 4' you ask - well it will fit a a DC-3 wheel in it lying down. DC-3? - one of my other passions - old aeroplanes.

    Ted


    IMG_0386.jpg[QUOTEIMG_0396.jpgIMG_0397.jpgIMG_0386.jpgIMG_0387.jpgIMG_0388.jpgIMG_0389.jpgIMG_0390.jpgIMG_0392.jpgIMG_0393.jpg=Ted Hobson;1960862]I'll be out at my Son's this morning - that's where the trailer lives - I'll see if I can get some snaps done for you.
    Ted[/QUOTE]

  2. #32
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    52

    Default 6x4 tipper

    Good read looking at your tippers guys . Thought Id show my 6x4 tipper . Its beyond taking on the road any more but still gets work around our property. Its a bit of an unusual thing, I got it off Ebay and did a lot with it Ten years ago. I had another skin welded in for a bottom since these pics were taken . The sub structure is to far gone now and it needs a cut apart and re build.

    It piviots on its axle and there are two ways of getting the rubbish out . The fastest is unlock the catch on draw bar and pin back the tail gate underneath the back , It has a chain and hook on tail gate . I then reverse 5 ft and stop fast . The whole thing tips up , lands on its small wheels , I drive forward and what hasn't come out slides out as I go forward.

    If that isn't working for what ever reason to do with the load then I have to push it past its tipping point . That's not so hard most of the time even with a full to the brim firewood load .

    I then push it back up level and lock the catch back over the drawer bar and drive off .

    Its a good design . It Looks a bit complex . Something to consider maybe .

    Rob

    IMG_3300.jpgIMG_3291.jpgIMG_3292.jpgIMG_3293.jpgIMG_3297.jpgIMG_3298.jpgIMG_3301.jpgIMG_3302.jpgIMG_3304.jpgIMG_3296.jpg

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