plaster/ skel trailer

Hi forum folk.

Getting some pricing to have one of these (see pic). Made mention that I dont need it to be builders unit, thinking about the ATM. Said can go further apart with the cross braces than pic.

Need to cart 6mtr lengths of light stuff like bundles of guttering shaped roll form and thin wall tubing for the business. Bundle would come in at about 200 odd Kg. Wont touch freight companies with guttering, guaranteed to be stuffted by time it gets here, and thats if you can get one to take it.

Already had the obvious pointed out to me; a "standard" 20ft sheeted (6mtr) flat top will be quite heavy.

Asked to come up with my required specs. Here is what I have come up with.
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Load space 20 ft (6mt) long


2mt wide (as wide as possible without side clearance lites) over guards.


ATM 2000 Kg


Ford studs ideally. Guards to suit 16 inch rim - ute running with 16s, easier wrt tyres.


brakes on both axles. Hydraulic is fine


Tie rail on sides. Front/rear if easily doable.


Tow vehicle: Falcon ute, so yeah trailer weight is a consideration


Wont need as many cross braces as this


Mainly cart lengths of guttering and lite weight tubing (bundled)


pls price on slipper spring and load sharing.


Not against running tri axle, but not sure if really need to.
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Only things that came to mind after the fact was maybe somewhere underneith top to stash straps and spare wheel holder ...

Some of you might recognise this trailer. :)

Any other specs folks have found useful with a flat top?

If your load is only approx 200KG, why would you want a tandem axle?? The suspension would be quite stiff, which in turn can cause damage to the goods carried and to the trailer itself. You can save yourself a stack of money, by not putting brakes on the trailer, as it should come under the 750kg rating.
If it's to carry the 6m long load, then why do the long rowing boat trailers have only the one axle?
If you plan on carrying other stuff on the trailer, then by all means have the tandem springs and axles, you would only need brakes on the front axle, if it's hydraulic or any other braking system.

I can show this to the boss and see if he wants to give you a quote, if you like.
River City Trailers, if you would like to see some of the products.
Regards,
Kryn

Yeah recon it will get used for other stuff. Once one has a trailer that long....
Just have to mindful of how much I load on it/ weight distribution etc...

After having a tandem box trailer for quite some time, it soon became apparent to me that 2 braked axles is a must have for me. Started out with single braked axle, couldnt toss the second one fast enough for a braked unit.

Eg tare weight on my 10x5 is 460Kg. Surprising how fast the weight stacks up when you load er up.

Do like the way tandem sits on the road compared to single axle. Less of that rocking crap.

"River City Trailers" Murray Bridge -- apprec the offer, but I'm from central Vic, so would prob stick to my side of the border.

Jatt

Not a problem if you're wanting local, we've sold trailers pretty well all over Australia.
Not sure how you'd go with hydraulic brakes on both axles, never seen it done??? Probably use a slightly larger master cylinder.

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Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore

Not a problem if you're wanting local, we've sold trailers pretty well all over Australia.
Not sure how you'd go with hydraulic brakes on both axles, never seen it done??? Probably use a slightly larger master cylinder.

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Brakes on both axles are dead easy to set up, just the slightly larger master cylinder as you mentioned.
On the subject of brakes, unless towing the trailer with multiple vehicles or loaning it to all and sundry, then I would scrap over ride brakes and go electric every day of the week. It's like comparing a Model T to a Ferrari the difference in the two systems, particularly when running 16" wheels.
One question that i have regarding the size of the trailer is that Jatt wanted to go as wide as possible without requiring clearance lights. Is there a reason that you don't want clearance lights? For a 6M trailer (closer to 8M by the time drawbars are factored in), I would want clearance lights to prevent some muppet running into the side of the trailer and I would also place an indicator repeater half way along as well I think. Clearance lights make towing at night far more pleasant into the bargain.
My thoughts anyway.

For a trailer greater that 6m long side marking lamps are mandatory.
https://www.infrastructure.gov.au/ve..._b.aspx#anc_13

Length includes drawbar.

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towing the trailer with multiple vehicles

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pretty much. Dont get me wrong electric is generally a good option.

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For a trailer greater that 6m long side marking lamps are mandatory.

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Good point. Guess could site away from the outside edge so has protection from being knocked about.

Towed my fair share of trailers. Side clearance lites on guards tend to have a hard life. Do prefer something thats not too wide. If I can squeeze past with my tow vehicle and its standard mirrors, so can my trailer. Negotiating tight driveways etc (my place thru to the backyard is a prime example)... Shop "plant" trailer - too wide- cant park it out back, so its staying at the shop.

Call some of my ideas strange, but if I'm forking out for it ....

I generally tuck clearance lights away somewhere protected like in between side coaming rail and the tie rail, because as you say, they do have a way of getting snotted while loading and unloading. One of the many virtues of the current LED lighting selection is their compact footprint.