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We Use these 3-15nm Sandvik torque wrenches for our insert tooling at work and I thought it would be a good little wrench for doing up action screws, scope rings and mounts etc, plus other low torque jobs around the shed.
I probably wouldn't buy one at full retail ($190) but I picked it up for $100 from the tool rep, it might be something to consider if you tinker with guns, if we didn't use them at work I wouldn't had known they existed.
Cheers.
Attachment 389022Attachment 389023
They do look real nice.
When an old analytical instrument was scrapped at uni the specialised tools that came with it were also turfed out. This included a bunch of triangular/square and pentagonal headed spanners, double headed screwdrivers and a 0-80 in/lb torque wrench with a standard double sided 3/8 drive head which I managed to grab. It's a bit chunkier looking than the Sandvik though.
For a few extra dollars these are regarded as about the best you can buy and they are Australian made to boot. A 3/8th Torque wrench at small numbers is starting to fall out of its accuracy range for the low inch/pounds cutters are torqued to. The beauty of the W&B is that it is so quick to set for jobs that require frequent changes.
https://sydneytools.com.au/product/w...xoC7psQAvD_BwE
I have a 1/2" drive (120ft/lbs) W&B that I bought in 1974. Only issue with it was it didn't do left hand threads so had to buy a new one to tighten the clutch hub on there big Stihl chainsaw. BTW the wrench I mentioned in my previous post goes to 240 in/lbs, 80"/lbs was the setting most commonly used.
I have the Warren & Brown unit, bought it in the nineties when I needed to do quite low torque settings left and right handed. I had it calibrated about 4 years ago, it was out at 1Nm but was within spec from 2Nm through to 22Nm. I needed 7Nm, 9Nm and 11.5Nm so I was sweet. Sold the machine it was bought for in March this year.
I last used it for some aluminium threaded plate with 4Nm torque setting a few weeks ago, lovely to use.
That Sandvik unit looks the goods, what is the drive size?
Mick.
If setting speed is an issue, for just over double the money.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris Parks
https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/torque-wrenches/0575649/
And it does right and left hand thread......though reading it could get tricky and unlike the Sandvik they are not what you would call compact.
My time isn't worth that much. I picked one up at an action(looks the same but possibly not the same brand).
My 1/2" wench is a Warren and Brown I do like there is little to break and if you did manage to break it I believe spare parts are available, or you could make your own.
Anyone see this before " It is recommended that micrometer wrenches are stored at 20% of full reading to maintain accuracy"?
I have an older 1/2" drive Warren & Brown unit, it'll be getting a workout soon since I've cooked a valve on my ute, I looked on eBay and I can purchase a new valved head for $460 delivered, at that price it's hardly worth buggering around fixing the old one, I'll keep it as a spare though.
I thought about a small deflecting beam torque wrench but if it's anything like my 1/2" one it probably won't be ergonomic to use one handed on small jobs, I use the Sandvik unit one handed at funny angles all throughout the day and it does the job.
It's 1/4" drive and comes with a 1/4" to hex adapter
One would not be using a 1/2 drive to do up scope rings. It wouldnt go down low enough.
I have one of these, unfortunately the don't make them any longer
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...176.aspx?dym=y
I've just ordered one of these -
https://www.probikekit.com.au/bicycl...E&gclsrc=aw.ds
Looks good Nev, very similar in design to the Sandvik but a lower torque range, hopefully I never need <3nm, I think 3-15nm covers most of the small jobs I need to do,Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfinNev
The Sandvik does actually operate below it's graduations so maybe I can add a 1 and 2nm mark using another torque wrench to find the positions.
If you need consistency at very low torque, have a look at torque wrenches/spanners designed for radio frequency connectors.
I have an older Torqueleader version (Geodre purchased them). Reading is easy via max dial indicator, but yes it doesn’t “click” and at low values it’s easy to over-torque. That said these gauges are often used for setting bearing preload so a max indicator is actually better suited than a “click”.Quote:
Originally Posted by Stustoys
Attachment 389076
I’ve always stored my low-range torque wrenches at close to zero as I believed that helped with accuracy. Think I read it in a manual, or was told by the store where I got my first sub 30Nm wrench (World Import Tools in Tokyo).Quote:
Anyone see this before " It is recommended that micrometer wrenches are stored at 20% of full reading to maintain accuracy"?
Got an email with a 15% discount voucher so got one of these as well -
https://www.probikekit.com.au/bicycl.../11381442.html
Just under $240. I think I have enough torque wrenches now.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SurfinNev
Interesting video clip, they suggest doing triple clicks to warm the torque wrench up before using. Both the ratchet head version and solid head version had the same instructions. Cannot say I've read that before.
Mick.