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  1. #61
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Vic
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    5,629

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    Quote Originally Posted by simso View Post
    I have the completed folder drawn on cad where you can click and remove any piece and it is perfectly scaled that you can save each piece for the laser cutters.
    G'day Steve

    I only have a DWG viewer on my computer, what program do I need to be able to remove the pieces and print off. Not really my area of expertise .

    Or if someone else has already separated the pieces can they email me the pieces.
    Cheers

    DJ


    ​ADMIN

  2. #62
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Ill email you all the pieces that can be laser cut individually. Autocad is the program to be able to play or dis-assemble the complete unit

  3. #63
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    5,629

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    Quote Originally Posted by simso View Post
    Ill email you all the pieces that can be laser cut individually. Autocad is the program to be able to play or dis-assemble the complete unit
    PM sent
    Cheers

    DJ


    ​ADMIN

  4. #64
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Heres all the files saved as dxf files ready for the laser cutters
    Steve

  5. #65
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Lameroo, S.A.
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    0

    Default

    thanks mate

  6. #66
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    526

    Default

    I have finally finished the folder - wahoooo. I was somewhat distracted by other projects so it has taken a lot longer than I expected. Worth the wait as this is one strong and well thought out design.

    Steve has been very gererous with his time on this thread and personal help he has given me so many thanks to him.

    First a couple of photos of the folder and then a photo to show it works.

    I need to let the paint harden a bit and there is going to be lots of boxes and shelves made with this folder.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #67
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default Nice work

    Hi Rod,
    Its looks great.You appear to like the hammertone paint finishes as much as I do. If they werent $30 plus a litre i would like to use them more.
    Did you mill the upper surface of the fingers i notice they are shiny )or is it Cold rolled steel you ahave made them from?

    Simso was spot on about the thickness of the bridge piece(the angle ) needing to be heavier as it gets wider,
    The units at work are 1 meter wide and the bridge Thicknesses are 30mm thick.


    Again, a very nice finish

    Grahame

  8. #68
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    526

    Default

    Hi Grahame,
    The top edges have been milled from cold rolled steel. The edges of the angle have been milled as well. I spent 5 hours on my mill trying to machine the knife edge and ended up giving up in frustration. The problem was my setup and my angle table were not rigid enough and my inexperience and stubborn nature kept me at it until I ruined a couple of metres of steel. I learnt a lot and talking with Steve I will be able to tackle it with more confidence next time.

    Steve bailed me out and did the fingers and welding. He has to have the best equiped and clean workshop I have ever seen.

    The hammertone is great for hiding scribe lines and defects. It is the first time I used it and chose it because I wanted a hard durable finish. I'll be using it a lot more now.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  9. #69
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Geelong, Vic
    Posts
    4

    Default

    I was wondering, this design is quoted at being able to take 1.6mm guage mild steel. What do you think something like this could do with aluminium? Do you think its capable of nice sharp bends in 2mm Aly?

    - great thread by the way!

  10. #70
    Join Date
    Oct 2001
    Location
    Warwick, QLD
    Age
    45
    Posts
    1,165

    Default

    I don't think it would have a problem at all with 2mm Ally. Just adjust the fold radius to suit and away you go.
    Have a nice day - Cheers

  11. #71
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Geelong, Vic
    Posts
    4

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    Excellent! then its off to my local lasercutter's for a quote and to find a machine shop willing to to do the milling operations.

  12. #72
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    brisbane
    Posts
    245

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    Quote Originally Posted by simso View Post
    Step 10 Okay this is the last step for component making for the the lift assy, in the next step we will put all these bits together.This item is a piece of 10mm flat bar 650mm long and 75mm wide, if you want wider like a 100mm then thats fine as well but you cant vary the 650mm length There are two slots, one on each end, drill these with a 10mm drill at the co-ordinates ive written and then simply file the gap or mill between the holes. The two holes in the centre are drilled and tapped for an m8 thread, this is were you will bolt up your handle from the earlier step. You have to mill both 75mm width ends as shown in the drawing down to a thickness of approx 5mm and a width of 25mm. The adjustment slides you made before in step 9 need to sit neatly and flush at these points. If you want to this can be laser cut as well for about 15 bucks.
    Okay that’s it for a little while and then we can put this lot together
    Simso

    Getting my head around this as a project I want to start soon. So doing a reread.
    Could you not do away with the Step 9 pieces and just use a 110mm x10mm piece in this step and cut away the required amount? It may be slightly more wasteful but means you don't have to mill and join the two pieces onto the step 10 piece.

    Woops ignore this....NOTE TO SELF READ NEXT STEP BEFORE ASKING QUESTION......needs to be adjustable so hence multiple pieces.
    Cheers

    Craig
    Brisbane

  13. #73
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Nah thats alright hux, yes you can simply use a flat bar and not have adjustment arms, but this means all bends are tight against the folder, it means to bend different thickness materials you have to use the bed pivot arms and slide the finger clamping assy backwards a bit, its not a big deal but it is easier and nicer bends having this option installed. I have built folders with both options, you dont have to mill anything on the straight bar option, just simply weld it into the lifting assy guides from step 7. Good to see that youve looked into this enough to notice things and alternatives that can be done.
    Also good to see other peoples hand skills and knowledge, rods unit which is completed above is truly a work of art, everything is countersunk rebated neat and tidy, makes my units and Im the one that designed them look like crap. Well done there rod.
    Steve

  14. #74
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    1

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    Quote Originally Posted by simso View Post
    Step 14. This unit allows the end pieces of your clamping assy to be fastened to the bed through the 20mm hole , it also allows the clamping assy to move forwards and backwards by simply turning the hex part of this assembly with a shiftter. Okay 2 pieces of 25 - 35mm hex bar 22mm in length with one side turned down to approx 20mm by 10mm length. I say approx because this needs to fit into the clamping assy end piece which you’ve already made, so if they have a slightly larger or smaller hole then you can compensate for this now. You also need to drill a 8mm hole through the entire piece, off centre by about 5mm, its not critical just so long as you don’t drill through the outer wall.


    I an new to this forum an I hope that I am replying in the correct way.
    This is an excellent design an mine works very well an took only a day too build.
    Just a note about this part, I have no access to milling/lathe machines so I used a M20 bolt. I just cut the thread off then drilled the hole off centre. I hope this helps others.

  15. #75
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    yorkshire UK
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hi Congratulations on producing the best designed and constructed pan brake folder on the web. I am a UK farmer and am considering building one. However I have a few questions if anyone has time to answer I would be very grateful.

    1. I have downloaded the DXF files you kindly posted but using Turbocad 8.2 I am unable to open them. Having had this problem before I think it may be due to the files being produced in a version of autocad later than 12. Which Turbocad will not recognize.

    2 I would like to make a wider folder (1200mm). I agree with all the points made about the increased stresss and the problems with deflection. Obviously I would have to use heavier materials. Any thoughts on how much heavier would be appreciated.

    3. Another possible way of building a wider folder has occured to me. How about activating the folder hydraulically? If 2 or 3 rams were spaced equidistant along the beam thus equalising the force, would this cure the deflection problem? The same principle could be employed for activating the clamping. This might result in simpler construction although at the added cost of hydraulics which might be obtained from scrap sources.

    4 Is it possible to incorporate a thin central hinge in addition to the 2 outside hinges? on the bending bar?

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