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Thread: Douglas printer's saw
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10th Feb 2022, 03:21 AM #16
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10th Feb 2022, 12:52 PM #17Golden Member
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The same as I was referring to in the picture. We had a very old flat bed machine for large work and it used quoins that were two separate wedges with a tooth arrangement on the inner face of each wedge facing each other and the key had teeth around the shaft that engaged the teeth.
CHRIS
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10th Feb 2022, 03:31 PM #18Novice
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printing
Hi guys,
I think I might be later printer than you Chris.
I served my time as a hand and machine typographer primarily on newspaper production in NZ.
I was a linotype operator for 5 years until they went to computerised typesetting. Sitting in front of a qwerty keyboard banging out miles of paper punched tape was a far cry from the linotype. The linotype had 90 keys on the keyboard and I was proficient enough to "hang" the machine up long enough to light a smoke without losing rhythm.
We used picas only, ems and ens (coming from the width of the letter m and letter n for width on each font).
The spacers (called leads) were made by a continuous casting machine I think it was a"Ludlow", using molten printers metal. The machine was automatic and only needed a new ingot by the operator, usually an apprentice.
Some of the leads were quite thick and were cast with through holes to limit weight i suppose.
All the assemble benches were called stones because the originals were stone and not steel.
Hope this is interesting for you,
Borriss
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10th Feb 2022, 04:50 PM #19Golden Member
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Boris, I finished my time in 1970 and was the only hand comp in my tech class, all the others worked mainly on papers. I was in the first class that did what they called photo composition at Ultimo Tech in Sydney and the teachers knew as much about it as we did, the blind leading the blind so to speak. The Telegraph newspaper in Sydney laid off hundreds the year I came out of the army and there were no jobs to be had but I was never going back to it even if they paid me double. A wasted 5 years of my life I will never get back.
CHRIS
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10th Feb 2022, 08:29 PM #20Novice
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printing
Hi Chris.
Not to detract from the op's thread.
like you 5 years wasted I swore and declared that I would never be in printing again!
I did an adult apprenticeship for fitting and turning and came to Australia with my family in 1979.
The last job as a fitter was at a printing factory in Albury for 14 years!!!!!
I have been retired now for 16 years and spend my time in the workshop.
My daughter lives in Sydney, Baulkhan
m Hills.
Cheers
Borriss
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12th Feb 2022, 09:43 PM #21Diamond Member
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Slight cleanup.
Start out with some scraping: IMG_2507.jpg
to take the rust and thick grease off.
IMG_2508.jpg Off with the Gauge Bar.
There is actually some oil under there. I wonder how old it is?
Found some old "Printer's Metal" wedged under there:
IMG_2509.jpg IMG_2510.jpg
Remove a tiny burr in the right-front of the bar: IMG_2512.jpg
Now, for the ball bearing cage strips from the table Vs. Cleaned them with degreaser, blasted out cage with air, and repeated, but one cage has three tight balls – one jamming badly. Took a good look in the sunlight, and could see a flat on one of the balls:
IMG_2513.jpg
(Second from the left, if you can see it in the reflection of the sky)
Interesting. It didn't see any dents in the Vs (from impact), so it must have gotten so jammed so much that it was scratched away?
I keep doing cycles of degreaser and air nozzle blast. Eventually the flat/scratched ball gets free enough, but one of the other ones is still jamming. I could probably buy a ball bearing strip, but;
- It won't be cheap?
- It won't use Imperial sized balls (to match the other strip), so I need 2, and
- It won't have the locking tags to stop the strip from rolling out of the V.
I can't be bothered. Time to relieve the cage around the jamming ball(s):
IMG_2514.jpg by shove-ing a screwdriver between the layers.
While I am doing hacks, flatten the lock tag, which is bent, sometimes jumping over the travel limit pin, and is scratching under the table:
IMG_2515.jpg
Finally, re-assembly:
IMG_2516.jpg
The plaque says 10-weight oil, but I try it dry for now. Seems to roll OK (a little bit of a rumble noise).
Next step will be the missing components;
- the Batter Plate (on the bottom right, in that groove)
- the flat plate that goes over the spindle
- the missing beam from the clamping frame (Ratchet Rack?)
but not for a few days.˙
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14th Feb 2022, 09:53 PM #22Diamond Member
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Is your's actually a Douglas?
If so, could you please measure/photograph these parts I am missing?
1) The sliding part of the clamp:
missing 1.jpg
and its locking link hardware.
2) The little flat table insert in front of the spindle:
missing 2.jpg
3) Maybe the dimensions and keyway for the sliding T bar on the right.
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14th Feb 2022, 10:10 PM #23China
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Will check tomorrow
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15th Feb 2022, 11:07 AM #24Golden Member
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I spent the first 16 years of my working life in various trade settings and one thing I often noticed was that wherever you went, whatever the job, there would always be an 'ex-printer' somewhere in the workshop or on the site. It seemed to be a trade that people did not choose to stay in. Or maybe it was an industry that underwent a technological revolution earlier than some others.
The saw looks like it could be a handy bit of kit for many fine jobs.
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15th Feb 2022, 12:47 PM #25Golden Member
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Mostly technological change was the main culprit. As I mentioned above my year was the first time photo composition was introduced and about that time the Australian newspaper was started with the specific idea that it could be produced electronically on one site and then printed elsewhere. This happened in the very late 1960's and after that the introduction of electronic publishing was unstoppable. Around 1971/2 there was mass sackings from the Sydney Telegraph and I dare say other papers as well and then the consolidation of mastheads or the outright closure of them started. The Sydney Daily Mirror, the afternoon Sun and the dedicated Sunday editions of existing papers such as the Sun Herald all bit the dust. We used to line up in Jones Street Ultimo on Saturday night to hopefully gain a shift doing the colour inserts which were hand inserted into the Sun Herald and received about $20 for the night's work.
CHRIS
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15th Feb 2022, 04:03 PM #26China
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Nigel, I had a look though the bits and pieces that part, appears to be missing so I can't help, time to contact the person I bought it from supposed to be complete.
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18th Feb 2022, 10:19 PM #27Diamond Member
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I'm fortunate that mine is mostly complete, and even has some extras.
I have four "Trimmer Sharpening Holder" (but no trimmers),
and two "Slide Gauge", one of which is missing its "Adjustable Gib Strip":
IMG_2556.jpg
I think I am capable of making one of those. Find some mild steel strap, cut it to length and width, file flatt-ish, put on surface grinder:
IMG_2557.jpg
make one side flat: IMG_2558.jpg (note Stalagmites )
then flip over and do other side: IMG_2559.jpg
Now, to the mill. Put existing gib in vice:
IMG_2562.jpgIMG_2563.jpgIMG_2564.jpgIMG_2565.jpg
to line up a 12mm end mill, then mount new gib, and drill thru.
(the things we do to avoid measuring and edge-finder-ing)
I should have centre-drilled first, because even though this was a centre-cutting mill:
IMG_2566.jpg
the collet chuck was wobbling a lot. I guess plunging with a blunt cutter was a bad idea
Drill the other hole through the real gib:IMG_2567.jpg
(9/64" is close enough for a 3/16" Whitworth thread)
and tap it out: IMG_2568.jpgIMG_2569.jpg
I even found a vintage looking, slotted dome head screw:
IMG_2571.jpg
So, I now have a fully working, fully adjustable, second Slide Gauge: IMG_2570.jpg
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19th Feb 2022, 08:33 PM #28Diamond Member
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Today, start on the Clamp Frame.
My table has some extra holes in it:
IMG_2577.jpg
Probably from when someone welded a broken Clamp Frame casting:
IMG_2572.jpgIMG_2573.jpgIMG_2574.jpg
and moved the bolt hole out from the web.
(but maybe it is a different model of clamp with different pin configuration?)
Either way, it only has one locating pin. Which is not a problem if the Clamp Frame is always bolted to the table, but is a little annoying if it is being removed and re-attached.
So, grab 1/4" mild steel, machine up a 3/16" pin on the Hercus, and tap it in to the frame.
And, then notice that the extra hole in the table is not in line.
Which means the pin will not go into it.
I contemplate removing the new pin. Grab it with pliers. It doesn't move. I start to twist, putting burrs on it. Then realise I should just file the pin into an ellipse:
IMG_2575.jpgIMG_2576.jpg
It now locates on the table. Next step is the Lock Bar:
IMG_2578.jpg
Nearly 7/8", plus the bit to locate in the groove, so I start looking for 1" x 3/8" stock.
Still looking, but I found a slab of steel that might do for the missing spindle table bit:
IMG_2579.jpg
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25th Feb 2022, 10:17 PM #29Diamond Member
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Lock bar
Hampered by a working example to copy, I fabricate a bar on the mill, from some oddly shaped scrap:
IMG_2588.jpgIMG_2589.jpgIMG_2590.jpgIMG_2591.jpgIMG_2592.jpgIMG_2593.jpgIMG_2594.jpg
Groove in the table is 1/8". Time to check my milling:
IMG_2595.jpg
Close enough
The problem now is that the frame casting is an odd shape. Need to reslape my profile to slide past it:
IMG_2596.jpgIMG_2597.jpgIMG_2598.jpgIMG_2599.jpgIMG_2600.jpg
OK. It slides well. Now have to work out how to attach to the clamping bar.
IMG_2601.jpgIMG_2602.jpgIMG_2603.jpg
Experiments show that the clamping range (swinging handle, camming action) isn't enough to go between the position ratchet positions.
I might need a spring and plunger arrangement, like the spare parts catalogue shows:
IMG_2604.jpg
More thinking required
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27th Apr 2023, 02:28 AM #30China
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Been playing with my saw (on and off ) my version does not have ball races on the table slides, does anyone know wat the correct lubrication is, Graphite, light way oil ??
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