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28th Jun 2020, 08:06 PM #76
Hi Neevo,
My mill is a Chinese copy of an Optimum BF20L, the one with an extra long table and MT3 spindle.
I was going to put a picture here, but it seem that its no longer in my pictures !!!
Best Regards:
Baron J.
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12th Sep 2021, 01:46 PM #77Golden Member
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Try and repair or learn to live with it?
What with lockdown I’m slowly running out of jobs in the garage, at least until I have more parts arrive for my Electronic Leadscrew build. So I set about making a scraper for the mill when I finally get around to scraping it in.
I started with 3mm x 20mm steel. This works well with the exception of 1 part. Mainly because it’s slightly curved across the width which gives it a bit extra strength but at the same time being flexible.
Cut the pieces on the bandsaw:
I had mistakenly bought a file handle for a file system that uses a locking handle. So the centre was a big hole. Not a worry, I popped some pine in the lathe and trimmed it down:
Here’s the plan:
Drilled a hole in the pine plug and hammered it all home without an issue. I also cut a step in the end of the scraper blade to accept some carbide:
So on paper it looks good, but there is 1 part I need to redo. The carbide holder is too thin and bends when tightened down firm, so whilst the concept works. I need some thicker stock to make this part from. But that should be a relatively quick job:
I used Stefans video here as the inspiration.
https://youtu.be/QJXqHpSh3SE
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12th Sep 2021, 02:50 PM #78Golden Member
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No time like the present to fix the issue. Scrapped the old scraper holder and cut up some 10mm plate instead.
A dramatic difference in rigidity!
Mounted:
I’m trying to figure out a way of using the large carbide insert I was given but may have to resort to buying one of those Sandvik scraper blades.
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12th Sep 2021, 09:20 PM #79Most Valued Member
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Looking good.
In my limited scraping experience - the Sandvik inserts just work, so unless your large insert is very similar I’d say just buy a Sandvik one.
Little bit hard to tell from the photos but to me it looks like your clamp may need to move downwards a bit, as you’ll only be clamping the back third of the carbide.
Steve
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12th Sep 2021, 09:37 PM #80Golden Member
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Yeah I think you’re right about the inserts. On the hunt for one.
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12th Sep 2021, 10:30 PM #81Diamond Member
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- Mar 2014
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- South of Adelaide
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I have seen this mob advertise the sandvik inserts on facebook
https://www.facebook.com/PMKEP/
Not sure what the go is now getting sandvik stuff here in Aus, they have shut their local office, not a big enough market apparently.
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15th Sep 2021, 02:46 PM #82Golden Member
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In preparation for doing some scraping I’ve added to my micrometer collection:
Have a 0-1” and 1-2” Mitutoyo already so pleased to add a 2-3”, I really like the feel of them and their locking mechanism. The Starret is my first and took a fair bit of cleaning and taking apart to make it move freely but is now working perfectly. Not as nice as the Mitutoyos but still a nice quality feel. Doesn’t have carbide anvils either.
The 2-3” was required as I’m going to test out scraping on my lathe first. The dovetails are much smaller and will all fit on my little surface plate. I’m not planning on scraping the sliding surfaces much but aim to get the dovetails parallel, as mine are about 5 thousandths out:
I need to grab some gauge pins but did the measurements with a couple of drills for a rough measurement.
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15th Sep 2021, 05:11 PM #83Most Valued Member
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- Mar 2011
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- Southern Flinders Ranges
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Last time I needed two gauge pins, I just put a grinder through two 5mm drills that were blunt and cleaned the cut end up in the lathe. Rough enough for mining
I like the scraper, that finished up rather nicely
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15th Sep 2021, 05:18 PM #84Golden Member
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Good idea. Can only find carbide gauge pins and they’re $25 each. Will hack up a drill instead.
Thanks on the scraper, I surprised myself too. I’m definitely getting more capable with machining the more I do it.
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15th Sep 2021, 06:50 PM #85Most Valued Member
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15th Sep 2021, 08:11 PM #86Golden Member
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No idea on the sliding surfaces but I’ll measure them. Mostly just trying to remove the wear in the middle of the travel so I can consistently tighten the gibs. Same problem on my lathe and mill.
I would assume though if the middle is worn on the dovetails then it would also have a corresponding dip in the centre of the sliding surfaces too?
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15th Sep 2021, 10:06 PM #87Most Valued Member
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Other useful sources of pins for measuring uses are the shanks of endmills and the elements from parallel or needle roller bearings.
Steve
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16th Sep 2021, 12:51 PM #88Most Valued Member
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Without doing the maths.
If the flat way isn't flat what does that do to your "across dowels" measurements?
If we assume the flat ways are some sort of curve and you manage to get the dovetails flat and parallel.
Won't that mean the cross-slide is trying to move in a straight line and a curve at the same time?
Maybe things are close enough that is wont matter...
Don't get me wrong, I don't always aim for perfection, often an improvement is good enough or at least "good enough for now". I just try to avoid doing something that will need redoing. But hey, if the flat ways are pretty close, what are they chances you'll put enough wear on them to ever need rescraping?
Don't forget you need to keep the dovetail square to the ways(or almost lol)
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16th Sep 2021, 12:55 PM #89Golden Member
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I’ll get the flats on the surface plate and see how far they are out. Might as well try and do it right from the beginning.
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29th Sep 2021, 09:12 AM #90Golden Member
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- Sep 2009
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- Sydney
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Try and repair or learn to live with it?
@snapatap thanks for the recommendation of PMK. Reached out to them yesterday and have a carbide scraper on the way. Actually cheaper to buy their handle as you get a free scraper blade with it.
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