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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Its a wear part, best not made from steel, particularly if your winch rope is synthetic soft fibre like Dyneema or Kevlar. If its steel, I'd be looking to put a roller fairlead on it, or replacing it with synthetic fibre.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O View Post
    A router cutter with a radius of about 3/4" appears to have an outside diameter somewhere in the vicinity of 3 inches, just from looking at photos at present (edit- I was guesstimating based on 1/2" shank but the one I was looking at is probably 1/4" shank. So much smaller OD than I thought.)...I'm talking here about milling the inside of the slot to give a radius for the rope to run on, not the outside of the body of the thing. which I think is what you mean in the suggestion above about using the lathe? I can't see any way to machine the inside of the slot in a lathe rather than a mill.
    Yes you are correct, I thought that you were referring to the body shape. For the slot you would have to take the bearing off the end of the cutter. Mill the slot first and then do the radiused edges, plenty of WD40 and you are good to go. You mentioned steel in a later post, take it very carefully using a 1/4" inch shank cutter, the slightest grab will bend the shank ! Again plenty of lube, I paint Trefolex on the workpiece.

    HTH.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O View Post
    A router cutter with a radius of about 3/4" appears to have an outside diameter somewhere in the vicinity of 3 inches...
    The 1" radius bit I posted the link to has an OD of 63.5mm. A ¾" radius will be under 60mm.

    I can't see a TCT router bit cutting 4140 for more than a few seconds.
    Chris

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
    Posts
    633

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    Thanks for the replies.
    I've got a winch at each end of my vehicle, the front one has always had synthetic rope on it but with a roller fairlead- these are not recommended for synth rope because the rope can tangle on them when slack. The rear has wire rope but I'm swapping it for synthetic. Figured I'd change both fairleads to the hawse type at the same time.
    I might have to experiment with one of the never-used bits out of my cheap router bit set. Would be interesting to see how long it takes to disintegrate when introduced to some 4140!
    I'll be not too far from Dandy South next Tuesday, might go over to one of the aluminium suppliers and pick up some suitable bar stock to carve a couple of these from.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

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    Pete, unless you just want a project - might be worth a phone call first to find out what the stock is worth, as you can buy the hawses on eBay for around $35 delivered.

    Steve

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
    Posts
    633

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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Pete, unless you just want a project - might be worth a phone call first to find out what the stock is worth, as you can buy the hawses on eBay for around $35 delivered.

    Steve
    Steve, why on earth would I buy a metal item for $35 when, with the equipment I have, I can make one myself in around 10 hours for only $70 in materials?

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    34
    Posts
    1,075

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pete O View Post
    Steve, why on earth would I buy a metal item for $35 when, with the equipment I have, I can make one myself in around 10 hours for only $70 in materials?
    Sounds like work...why buy a new drill press when we can just make a new spindle for the low cost of (at least) a day's productivity

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

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    Router bits should work fine, probably buy the 1/2 shank ones.

    If you want cheap carbide corner rounding check out these, 25mm radius $66au plus gst

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
    Using Tapatalk

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

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    AU $14.63 | 1PC 2/4Flutes R2-R30 Cemented Carbide Corner Rounding End Mills,Ball Nosed Concave Radius Milling Cutters (R2/R5/R8/R15/R25/R30)
    https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNWXbnP

    Incase others are interested for steel, beats the HSS that needs sharpening

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
    Using Tapatalk

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Drouin Vic
    Posts
    633

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    A mate brought me a few router bits that he just inherited from his dad, might get a chance to give it a try over the next few days.

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,443

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    AU $14.63 | 1PC 2/4Flutes R2-R30 Cemented Carbide Corner Rounding End Mills,Ball Nosed Concave Radius Milling Cutters (R2/R5/R8/R15/R25/R30)
    https://a.aliexpress.com/_mNWXbnP

    Incase others are interested for steel, beats the HSS that needs sharpening

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
    Hi Dave, Guys,

    Carbide ones will need sharpening as well ! I just grind the flat face with a diamond wheel, though I have tried a couple of degrees of rake on mine. It does help on steel otherwise its effectively zero rake.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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