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  1. #16
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    Jun 2007
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    Hi Matt, I have had some luck brazing castiron in the past. Also "nickel" electrode with arc welder, I also tried TIG using nickel electrode as filler (remove the flux). I would think Braze would be the best to fix your broken part.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
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    N.W.Tasmania
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    Can I ask why you chose stainless electrodes for cast as they offer no advantage over a low hydrogen electrode and cost more? The dissimilar metal go to used to be Weldall electrodes which are a 312 grade stainless electrode and they specifically caution against using them on cast iron. Low Hydrogen electrodes will produce a good weld on cast iron that cannot be drilled or machined as a rule. If you need to drill or machine the deposit, then nickel electrodes are the choice. For best results one of the Eutectic offerings can not be beaten, but expect to pay upwards of $180/Kg for them. As with all cast iron welding, preheat and cooling is the key to success.
    Stainless electrodes have developed an undeserved reputation for welding everything and while they do have their place, there are often better and cheaper options.
    Karl, my welding skills would best be described as rudimentary, but my gut instinct would be to braze this part with silicon bronze as first choice in any repair operation. Next would probably be nickel electrodes if I could just purchase a few from a local welding service. A well known YouTube content creator, Brian Block repaired a large radial arm drill which he dropped after the rope on his newly installed, but second hand crane snapped. If I recall, he just used low hydrogen rods and possibly peened the weld runs as he laid them down, I'm not sure now, I may be remembering that technique being used by boilermakers at one of my old work places. Is that the approach that you would take if using low hydrogen rods? (Pre heat and slow cooling taken as a given.)
    At that same workplace, Eutectic 680s were a go to rod for people doing stuff at home on very basic home welders, especially those that only had a high and a low setting. They were easy to strike and got a good hold on most metals people wanted to weld. I doubt that the 680s would have been as popular if the users had to pay for them themselves though;-)

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simplicity View Post
    Except I do t have a mill,
    But I could do it by hand.

    Cheers Matt.
    If you want one machined, feel free to message me.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Lebrina
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    1,910

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    Quote Originally Posted by shedhappens View Post
    G/day Karl, because I have them, have used them to successfully weld cast iron many times and have no need to run off and
    buy other rods to do a cast welding job. I used to use Castcraft rods but have not had them for years.

    Do you realize that you just proved my point that I made, twice......
    I don't know about proving any particular point, I was more interested in why you chose stainless electrodes for the job given their cost and also the assumption that you would most likely have other electrode types at your disposal as most people do.
    Stainless electrodes have gained something of a cult status when it comes to "difficult" jobs which is in many cases misguided.
    In no way am I trying to convert you from your favourite remedy, I only sought to clarify the point that they were neither neccessary, nor recommended.

  5. #20
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    Sep 2010
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    Lebrina
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    Karl, my welding skills would best be described as rudimentary, but my gut instinct would be to braze this part with silicon bronze as first choice in any repair operation. Next would probably be nickel electrodes if I could just purchase a few from a local welding service. A well known YouTube content creator, Brian Block repaired a large radial arm drill which he dropped after the rope on his newly installed, but second hand crane snapped. If I recall, he just used low hydrogen rods and possibly peened the weld runs as he laid them down, I'm not sure now, I may be remembering that technique being used by boilermakers at one of my old work places. Is that the approach that you would take if using low hydrogen rods? (Pre heat and slow cooling taken as a given.)
    At that same workplace, Eutectic 680s were a go to rod for people doing stuff at home on very basic home welders, especially those that only had a high and a low setting. They were easy to strike and got a good hold on most metals people wanted to weld. I doubt that the 680s would have been as popular if the users had to pay for them themselves though;-)
    I haven't done a great deal with silicon bronze and the TIG, but it seems quite a popular method. Based on what I have in my personal arsenal, I would go with Eutectic Xuper 2240 electrodes if I were stick welding the job or castcraft nickel electrodes with the flux knocked off if I were using the TIG. Both these methods will produce a deposit that can be machined, drilled or filed as required, which is of prime importance on this job. Honestly, oxy brazing would be a viable option too.
    While preheating is rarely a bad thing, it assumes lesser importance when welding a broken piece back on to a casting that is not subject to restraint as the component is free to move during the inevitable heating and cooling of any form of brazing or welding. As you mentioned, peening can assist greatly with minimising distortion and stress build up. I like to use an air chisel with the chisel ground to a radius rather than a chisel point, although a ball pein or chipping hammer works really well for occasional use. Slow cooling is less important if the job can move (expand and contract) freely, but obviously never quench the weld, which is bad practice anyway.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Karl the point that i made was that i would have this particular cast welding job finished and back on the machine with no fuss with a simple arc welder, and a grinder for the edge prep.
    There is no drilling or machining required, this particular job would have to be the simplest and most straight forward you could get.
    I would say in 5 minutes i would be sitting down having a cup of tea while the job cools.
    This job is not rocket science and anybody that can run an arc could do it successfully with a stainless, or if they wanted castcraft rod.
    My advice to other metal workers is to actualy have a go at welding cast, get some experience and dont be put off by fears and complexities spread by pro welders.....

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    34
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    I have some recently-out-of-date (still works fine, we just can't use it anymore because aerospace) aerospace glue sachets if you want to try simply sticking it back together.

    This stuff is made as an alternative to welding and they literally build planes with it; we've used it at work to fix broken castings before if they're not going to be under a huge load.

    https://www.clickbond.com/product-de...sive-cartridge

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    102

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    Quote Originally Posted by elanjacobs View Post
    I have some recently-out-of-date (still works fine, we just can't use it anymore because aerospace) aerospace glue sachets if you want to try simply sticking it back together.

    This stuff is made as an alternative to welding and they literally build planes with it; we've used it at work to fix broken castings before if they're not going to be under a huge load.

    https://www.clickbond.com/product-de...sive-cartridge
    Thanks for all the help, and thanks for the offer of help as well everyone.
    I’m going to try Elan,s super aviation glue first.
    See how that goes.

    Cheers Matt.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Let's know how you go, please.
    However, cast iron was a choice of material made at the time out of necessity, not functionality.
    It is a bad choice in the context of an adjusting screw opposite the break. It should nave been cast from malleable iron or made from steel - even back then.
    I would strongly suggest (in the absence of a milling machine) to fabricate it out of 3 mild steel flat pieces with full thickness welds. Whatever method you choose to repair the broken bit with, is NOT going to have the strength of the original cast iron part. And you can clearly see that wasn't sufficient...
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  10. #25
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    Apr 2012
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    Healesville
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    Yes a stronger part could be made but the part must have been strong enough to last all these years.
    You dont think over tightening the bolt might have had something to do with it breaking?

  11. #26
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    Mar 2009
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    Melbourne
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    54
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    Just be aware that when using adhesives on cast iron they will be absorbed into the grain and can cause problems if you decide to braze or weld the part down the track.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

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