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  1. #316
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Dog Tooth Wrench !

    Hi Guys,

    I seem to be doing more bits on the grinding spindle than anything else ! I mentioned in the last post that I had got a bit of 3 mm plate. Well I've dug it out of the scrap box and it turns out to be an aircraft magneto adjusting spanner that I made quite some time ago that didn't fit properly. So I've spent some time today re purposing it.

    11-08-2020=001.jpg 11-08-2020=002.jpg

    Using a boring head in the mill I've opened out the bore to 30.5 mm diameter so that the end cap nuts will fit into it. I simply clamped it in the mill vise centered it up under the boring head and taken a 1.25 mm bite out of the ring. The grinding spindle end caps are a nice easy fit in the bore.

    11-08-2020=004.jpg 11-08-2020=003.JPG

    These pictures are of the bored out wrench before taking a hacksaw to it.

    Afterwards I took a hacksaw to the spanner and cut two of the three notches away, leaving me with a half moon shape with a single notch. Using the piece that I cut out I filed a tooth that would fit into the notch.

    11-08-2020=007.jpg 11-08-2020=008.jpg
    11-08-2020=005.JPG 11-08-2020=006.JPG
    These pictures are of the tooth that I made before silver soldering. I used a cooks torch to do this.

    I then silver soldered the tooth into the notch in the spanner, after which I filed the tooth so that it fit into the castellations in the end caps. A bit of deburring and cleaning up and I have my end cap wrench.

    11-08-2020=009.jpg 11-08-2020=011.jpg 11-08-2020=010.jpg

    These last pictures show the finished wrench.


    Thanks for looking Guys. More to come !
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #317
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Nice work!

    Steve

  3. #318
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Posts
    666

    Default

    Agreed. Clever way to make a spanner Brooks TC Grinder.!

  4. #319
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default Punch & Die !

    Hi Guys,

    Thank you for your nice comments, actually it was Steve who started the germ of an idea when he suggested a screw through the edge for the tooth.

    Anyway back to the plot ! I've started making a punch and die to cut the Teflon sheet in order to make the pre load washers to go on top of the grinding spindle bearings. The Teflon sheet is 5 thou thick and can easily be cut with scissors, but since the outside diameter needs to be the same as the bearings and the inside diameter needs to clear the shield, the washer will only be 2 mm wide.

    I had initially thought about turning them but couldn't figure out a way to do both the inside and outside that way, hence making a punch and die.


    12-08-2020-001.jpg 12-08-2020-003.jpg 12-08-2020-002.jpg

    I had the end from a hydraulic piston rod which was very conveniently 20 mm diameter, so taking 0.5 mm of the diameter was easy. I turned a 5 thou dish into the end so that I have an edge with which to cut the Teflon sheet.

    I also had a couple of pieces of 5 mm plate which I super glued together and drilled two 3 mm guide pin holes and two securing holes so that both plates can be clamped together with screws. These plates will form the 19 mm diameter die.

    This is as far as I've got today ! I still need to change the chuck on the lathe to the four jaw and set the plates up so that I can drill and bore the hole out to size. I can use the punch as a guide.

    I'll post more pictures later when I've progressed.

    Thanks Guys.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #320
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    You've gone to a bit of trouble with that C spanner, looks like a precision fit.

  6. #321
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Punch & Die almost finished !

    Hi Guys,

    I've done some more on the punch and die. I changed the lathe chuck and put the four jaw on, I then set the work up so that I could drill a pilot hole in the pop mark which I then opened up with a 17 mm diameter blacksmiths drill. After which I bored out to 19 mm.

    13-08-2020-001.jpg

    Because there were two pieces of plate super glued together I used soft aluminium strips under the chuck jaws to clamp them. The idea being if the two pieces came apart then they couldn't escape from the chuck. There is no guarantee that both pieces are exactly the same size, so the soft aluminium will deform to accommodate any slight differences.

    13-08-2020-004.jpg

    This is a picture of the bored out two pieces still glued together with the punch inserted. The punch is a nice fit.
    I wont mention the slight error that I made.

    13-08-2020-002.JPG 13-08-2020-003.JPG

    Two more pictures of the parts before I split the two plates apart showing the punch inserted in the die.

    13-08-2020-010.JPG13-08-2020-011.jpg

    These two pictures show the guide pins locktited into the bottom plate of the die.

    At this point all that remains is to thread the two clamp screw holes M6 and test it with some Teflon sheet.


    Thanks for looking.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  7. #322
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Punch & Die Tested.

    Hi Guys,

    Well I've had a play with my punch and die ! It does work, well just about.

    The first problem that I came across was when the Teflon sheet was placed between the two half’s of the die and the screws tightened up to secure the Teflon sheet, the die spread slightly open at the side where there wasn't any screws. So I drilled and threaded two more hole on the other side. This ensures that the die closes completely flat on the Teflon sheet.

    14-08-2020-002.jpg

    As you can see now there are four M6 cap head screws and washers.

    14-08-2020-001.jpg

    This picture shows the results of the tests. The two pieces on the left of the picture are the results of the first tests when the die only had two fastening screws.

    The piece on the right is the result of having four screws closing the die. As you might see the hole is a little rough on one edge. This is because the punch isn't quite a good enough fit to just cut the Teflon all the way round and allowing it to flow slightly as it drags the material edge before it breaks.

    I'm going to make a new punch that is a tighter fit in the die, which should stop that effect. I don't want that to happen on the outside edge when I make the hole into a 2 mm wide washer.

    The next job is to make a new punch.

    Thanks for looking Guys. Nice of you to tag along.
    More later.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #323
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    To provide preload I expect the teflon will be under a small amount of compression - do you envisage any issues with it flowing under a compressive load and eventually taking a permanent set, reducing the preload ?

  9. #324
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Default

    Hi Familyguy,

    Quote Originally Posted by familyguy View Post
    To provide pre load I expect the Teflon will be under a small amount of compression - do you envisage any issues with it flowing under a compressive load and eventually taking a permanent set, reducing the pre load ?
    Thank you for your question !

    The original idea was to use small diameter rubber cord under the end caps to provide a pre load. But because of the way the rubber gets harder under compression, I changed my mind, and decided that because Teflon will cold flow, using a thin Teflon washer would allow me to use one or more 5 thou layers to reduce the end float to zero without applying too much pressure to the bearings, and if the bearing warmed up the minute expansion would cause the Teflon to compress without causing a large increase in pre load. I don't know if the Teflon will take a permanent set under load. It probably might, in which case would that give zero pre load and zero end float ? I just don't know.

    That is my theory anyway. Whether it works in practice I don't know. I could just machine the spacers to give me zero end float but then I would not have any give should I get any expansion. I suppose that back to back tapered bearings would have been better.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #325
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
    Posts
    2,129

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,
    The next job is to make a new punch.
    More later.
    John it might help with the cutting if you skewed the punch in the chuck and faced off the punch face on an angle..... more of a
    slicing action than a wad punch.

  11. #326
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Adelaide
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Hi Baron
    your reasoning regarding the preload washers sounds logical - back when I worked in plastics I had a second job working in a mechanics workshop, as a sideline the workshop was involved in the restoration of MG's - I was the engine and gearbox guy - we also worked on client's daily drivers as well.
    I recall seeing the owner set the preload on a differential. A special collapsible spacer was installed between the pinion bearings, as the nut was tightened to a predetermined torque the spacer collapsed, if for some reason it needed to be taken apart then the spacer was thrown out and a new one used, it was half a lifetime ago, I can't recall which car the diff was from.

  12. #327
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Pulley bored !

    Hi Guys,

    I thought that since I had the three jaw chuck mounted on the lathe with the soft jaws installed, that I would bore the end caps to suit the collars ready for machining the grooves for the Teflon dust seals.

    22-08-2020-007.JPG 22-08-2020-008.JPG

    The collars have a 12 mm bore to suit the spindle shaft diameter and they have a 16 mm outside diameter. The idea is that they will go through the end cap and bear on the outer ball race hub. I've yet to machine the grooves in the end cap bore for the Teflon dust seals. There is only just enough clearance between the collar and the end cap bore to allow the collar to rotate freely. The Teflon dust seals should grip the collar and run inside the grooves machined into the end caps.

    Since I yet have to do that I'll post pictures when I do.

    22-08-2020-001.JPG 22-08-2020-002.JPG 22-08-2020-003.JPG

    Whilst I had to machine the soft jaws to suit the end caps, and the pulley hub is almost the same diameter as the end caps, I thought that I might as well drill and bore the drive pulley to suit the spindle shaft whilst I was at it. So I drilled the pulley bore out to 11 mm and then bored it out to 12 mm. The pulley is a very good fit on the spindle. I'm now trying to decide whether to put a feather key in the spindle and key the pulley bore, or to simply drill and thread for a couple of grub screws. I'm leaning towards a feather key since the pulley is such a good fit.

    22-08-2020-004.JPG 22-08-2020-005.JPG

    This picture shows the bored out end caps and how the collar will sit inside the bore of it.

    22-08-2020-006.JPG

    This is a picture of how the pulley will sit on the spindle when in place pressed against the collar. The excess spindle will be cut off and the end faced square.

    That all for now ! I'm going to have a go at turning some Teflon to make the dust seals.

    Thanks for looking and following along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #328
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up Teflon dust seals !

    Hi Guys,

    I said in the previous post that I was going to have a go at turning some Teflon to make the dust seals for the grinder cartridge end caps. I must say that machining Teflon is a strange experience. It moves out of the way when you are cutting it ! Its really weird stuff. Your cutting tool has to be razor sharp as well. It also has the ability to take the edge of your tool very rapidly.

    23-08-2020-001.JPG 23-08-2020-002.jpg 23-08-2020-003.JPG

    The piece that I started with was 24 mm outside diameter with a 12 mm diameter bore. The first picture shows it having had the outside turned down to 19 mm. The second picture is with the bore turned to 15.75 mm and the last one with one of the two collars pressed into it. It took a little force to push the collar in, but it slid out quite easily, suggesting that the bore had got slightly bigger. However when I measured the outside diameter with a mic it had expanded only about a thou, as near as I could measure to 75.10 thou.

    Next job is to cut some washers 1 mm thick from the piece that I have in the chuck. I don't have a thin enough parting blade to do this bit, so I have set out to make one.

    23-08-2020-004.JPG

    I had a short piece of steel bar 1/4" square, that I've pressed into service as a tool holder. The bit of bar is from the inside of between the door knobs. I've several of these that I've acquired from various places. Here I marked it for two holes to suit a Stanley knife blade. I've drilled the holes 2.5 mm and threaded them M3.

    23-08-2020-005.JPG

    Here I'm using a 25 thou by 2.5" inch slitting saw blade to create a slot to hold a Stanley knife blade suitably ground in order to turn it into a parting tool.

    23-08-2020-006.JPG 23-08-2020-007.jpg 23-08-2020-008.jpg

    These three pictures show the finished parting tool ground to size and ready for use, which will be the subject of the next post. It will be interesting to find out just how easy or hard it will be to create these washers.

    Just for information ! The Stanley knife blade was scored using a thin abrasive disc in a Dremal tool and then secured in the bench vise and snapped off. The top rough edge was then ground off flat and square using the bench drill press running at maximum speed with a 1" grinding wheel held in the drill chuck. The tool holder was sat on a parallel in the drill vise, and the X-Y table used to sweep the grinding wheel over the top edge.

    Thanks for looking Guys, nice to have you along.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #329
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Looks like fun John - you definitely like to take on a challenge! Think I'd have been down to the hydraulic shop and got some Teflon backup rings by now

    I forgot to take any photos, but when I pulled the spindle out of my TC grinder it was just a 3 groove labyrinth seal, and no sign of any dust ingress in the bearings.

    I'll be interested to see how these Teflon seals go in your spindle, as I'm in 2 minds as to whether they are a good thing. One side of me says that more sealing must be better, but the other has seen what hard particles embedded in a soft carrier can do. I've seen steel fuel lines completely worn through by a nylon hose that just got normal road dust etc embedded in it.

    Keep up the good work - its almost ready to grind some tools!!

    Steve

  15. #330
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,436

    Thumbs up

    Thanks Steve, your comments are appreciated.

    I'll be interested to see how these Teflon seals go in your spindle, as I'm in 2 minds as to whether they are a good thing. One side of me says that more sealing must be better, but the other has seen what hard particles embedded in a soft carrier can do. I've seen steel fuel lines completely worn through by a nylon hose that just got normal road dust etc embedded in it.
    I'm only going with the information that I was given along with the bit of Teflon from the engineer that gave me it.

    They use a similar method to make rotating joints that work under extreme pressure. They do this by balancing the internal and external pressures, allowing the joint to move easily. Whilst I agree with you that the Teflon being quite soft would allow particles to become embedded, any particles would have to get through several changes in direction to get to the bearings.

    It very much a case of "suck it and see" ! I could end up being very disappointed.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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