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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Default Sanity check on this cutter...

    Digging in the shed tonight I came across this big insert cutter that I got with some other tools in a mixed lot ages ago. Around 200mm diam so far too big and scary for my old mill but might be able to use it on the TOS.

    I’m not familiar with them, but looks like a slotting cutter for a horizontal arbor that may have been used as a face mill as the alternate inserts look like they are on the wrong side.

    What does the brains trust think?





    Steve

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
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    Melbourne
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    35
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    Default

    Yeah it's a big insertable side and face cutter, no idea how you would run it as a Facemill but it does look like someone tried.

  3. #3
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    Default

    Those inserts look as if they would be under a lot of load set as they are, the holder looks to be more a staggered tooth side and face cutter.

  4. #4
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    Default

    Any idea what the standard method is to line the inserts up with each other when I move them to the other side?
    I haven't removed one yet, but doesn't look like they are indexed axially.

    Steve

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    I would think that the inserts would be set from the side face of the disc using a stop block. Basically a piece of steel with a slot that fits over the insert with a flat face and a screw and locknut to set the amount of protrusion of the insert with reference to the side. The height of the insert should be set by the bottom of the recess that the insert sits in.

    A similar method is used to set moulder blades.

    Setting Tool.png

    Edited to add drawing.
    Last edited by BaronJ; 26th Jun 2020 at 05:46 PM. Reason: edited to add drawing
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    Kyabram. Vic
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    632

    Default

    I would be more inclined to set the head up on an arbour between centres and use a dti to test the side projection. the depth should be set in the locating slot if it was milled accurately.

    Ken

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Healesville
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    2,129

    Default

    That is a bit of a beast, it looks like something you could make use of on a home built a stump grinder.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Lake Macquarie
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    Default

    A simple and reasonably accurate way of setting:

    Mount cutter on a vertical spindle
    Take a light cut (2mm+) on a scrap piece of metal.
    Invert the cutter on the spindle.
    Move the cutter over the machined surface.
    Release the required insert (those that are offset from the wedge clamp)
    Slide insert down to the machined surface and tighten wedge,
    Repeat for every alternate insert.

    Col

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Default

    They use large cutters like that to skim and level cylinder heads.
    Someone obviously thought they could do that with this one. Trouble is that now every second insert has extreme negative take and would just run the surface cut by the pressing tooth.
    Should be ok for slot milling once you've shifted the inserts where they belong.


    Cheers
    Joe
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    Default

    When I looked closer while changing the inserts to the correct side, each position is marked with a dot on the side the insert should protrude.
    At the moment I’ve just put them in the correct side as I don’t have a 1-1/2” arbor to drive them. Will probably make a keyed bush to go on a 30mm one.




    Joe - I think these are the face mills you’re describing for skimming heads etc




    Steve

  11. #11
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    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Some mean looking cutters there ! Their going to need some HP to drive them !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  12. #12
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    Nov 2017
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    Default

    They would definitely need a bit to drive them at whatever maximum material rate they are capable of, but thinking that as a flycutter on steroids taking light cuts I might be able to use them. The TOS spindle is 3kW so would likely handle a half decent cut anyway.
    I picked them up at the same action I got the slotting cutter at. The new price for something similar is pretty serious and then you're looking at huge number of inserts and $$$ to be able to use it!!
    Its always a good bit of machining to look at the online promo videos of these sorts of cutters running.

    Not high on my todo list, but when I get a chance I'll sort out an arbor and give one a run just to see what its like. Having something nice to face old cast iron cylinder heads would be useful

    Steve

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
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    Lake Macquarie
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    When I looked closer while changing the inserts to the correct side, each position is marked with a dot on the side the insert should protrude.
    At the moment I’ve just put them in the correct side as I don’t have a 1-1/2” arbor to drive them. Will probably make a keyed bush to go on a 30mm one.




    Steve
    Looking at the insert pocket in the latest picture, you do not need an insert setting gauge.
    The pocket sets the insert both axially and radially therefore the accuracy is dependent on the
    insert tolerances (Assuming that the pockets were precisely machined.)

    Col

  14. #14
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    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post

    Joe - I think these are the face mills you’re describing for skimming heads etc

    Steve
    Yes! They are exactly what I saw in use for skimming heads. I guess you can see why I thought what happened to your cutter....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  15. #15
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    Nov 2017
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Col2310 View Post
    Looking at the insert pocket in the latest picture, you do not need an insert setting gauge.
    The pocket sets the insert both axially and radially therefore the accuracy is dependent on the
    insert tolerances (Assuming that the pockets were precisely machined.)

    Col
    It definitely sets them radially, but not axially. The face and back of the inserts is completely flat, so they are free to move from the wrong side of the cutter all the way across until they fall out the correct side.
    Once I've sorted out something to mount it on I'll use the method you suggested earlier to set them.

    Steve

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