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  1. #46
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    BaronJ, definitely no adjustment screw on the back side of the gib. It’s actually a bit annoying because when I first got the mill, I found the gib would move with the table because the head of the bolt wasn’t a good fit for the slot in the gib. In the end I made very thin washers to take up the gap, but another screw on the back side of the gibs would be amazing.

    Is it worth modifying the table for additional screws at the end when I have it off for scraping?

  2. #47
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    Reading this thread I recall needing to repair a curved cast iron gib, but having no idea how to fix it.
    Eventually I came across this: Cast Iron Gib making---trials and successes related to the CI warping when sawed - Page 2
    It's a long post, but towards the he suggests peening the gib - carefully.
    When I managed to overcome my reluctance to hit that flimsy little piece of cast iron with a hammer, it was done in a few minutes and almost entirely corrected the problem curve.
    Bill

  3. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by WCD View Post
    Reading this thread I recall needing to repair a curved cast iron gib, but having no idea how to fix it.
    Eventually I came across this: Cast Iron Gib making---trials and successes related to the CI warping when sawed - Page 2
    It's a long post, but towards the he suggests peening the gib - carefully.
    When I managed to overcome my reluctance to hit that flimsy little piece of cast iron with a hammer, it was done in a few minutes and almost entirely corrected the problem curve.
    Bill
    Great read. Is the peening done on the side that requires shrinking or stretching?

  4. #49
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    The bend in your gib may come from those dings from the locks(cant tell from the pictures)
    Maybe machining them out would help. You could even machine a slot on the so the bottom of the slot was square to the locks so its not so ugly next time. I wouldn't be trying to fill them.

    But bare in mind, if you start scraping, in a perfect world you will likely need a new gib. In a less perfect world a packer behind it.

    p.s. whats going on with the far end of the gib in the third picture in post 36?
    Last edited by Stustoys; 25th Jun 2020 at 12:26 AM. Reason: p.s.

  5. #50
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    Hi Neevo, Guys,

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    BaronJ, definitely no adjustment screw on the back side of the gib. It’s actually a bit annoying because when I first got the mill, I found the gib would move with the table because the head of the bolt wasn’t a good fit for the slot in the gib. In the end I made very thin washers to take up the gap, but another screw on the back side of the gibs would be amazing.

    Is it worth modifying the table for additional screws at the end when I have it off for scraping?
    If you have the room at the other end of the gib, I would be very tempted to drill and thread it the same as at the thick end and make a screw so that you can trap the gib and adjust it each way. You have to have a certain amount of play in there and being able to move the gib is a big advantage.

    In the mean time I would give the gib a few strategic taps with a hammer !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  6. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Great read. Is the peening done on the side that requires shrinking or stretching?
    On the side that needs stretching. Each peening hit spreads the metal under it a little. When added together they make that side longer than the other.

    Same process is used to shot peen straighten aluminium aircraft parts. Wing ribs cut from solid plate would curve a little beyond the flatness specs and were shot peened by the anodizing companies to flatten.

    Pete

  7. #52
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    Default Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    Quote Originally Posted by Stustoys View Post
    p.s. whats going on with the far end of the gib in the third picture in post 36?
    Can you give me more details? Is it the bend, the additional taper on the left front or mark on the face?


  8. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Can you give me more details? Is it the bend, the additional taper on the left front or mark on the face?
    The marks on the face. One I'm guessing about 2" of inches from the right hand end and one at the right hand end. I'm also guessing that is the right hand end when its fitted?

  9. #54
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    Yes, that’s the end that is at the right hand end when fitted. They’re gouges out of the gib that look like a grinding gouge of some sort. There’s no way to scrape them out without completely changing the dimensions of the gib I don’t think:



    The other end has a angle on one side that means it’s not symmetrical but I can’t imagine this would have a huge impact as it’s relatively small vs the full width of the gib:




  10. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Great read. Is the peening done on the side that requires shrinking or stretching?
    You peen the concave side to expand that surface and reduce the curve.
    That post is quite information dense, and I find it needs careful reading.

    Bill

    Note to self: before responding to question, read all posts to see if someone else has already provided the answer
    Last edited by WCD; 25th Jun 2020 at 11:32 PM. Reason: extra wording

  11. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Yes, that’s the end that is at the right hand end when fitted. They’re gouges out of the gib that look like a grinding gouge of some sort. There’s no way to scrape them out without completely changing the dimensions of the gib I don’t think
    All good, I would n't worry about them at all. At least for the minute.

    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    The other end has a angle on one side that means it’s not symmetrical but I can’t imagine this would have a huge impact as it’s relatively small vs the full width of the gib:
    For what its worth I dont think you every need to worry about those.

  12. #57
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    Default Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    Quote Originally Posted by WCD View Post
    You peen the concave side to expand that surface and reduce the curve.
    That post is quite information dense, and I find it needs careful reading.

    Bill

    Note to self: before responding to question, read all posts to see if someone else has already provided the answer
    Father in law gave me a small ball peen hammer. I checked the gib on my welding plate and it was pivoting in the middle. A few taps on the back side with the hammer (enough to leave very slight marks) and within about 8-10 hits across the back the bend has almost entirely disappeared Try and repair or learn to live with it?

  13. #58
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    Redoing the measurements with a slightly straightened gib. Interestingly now that I have a straight gib I think I have a problem with gib wear. The screw is bottoming out I’m sure. I can still get the required amount of play but no more.

    Table right
    Left: 0.16mm
    Right: 0.16mm

    Table Middle
    Left: 0.12mm
    Right: 0.05mm

    Table Left
    Left: 0.07mm
    Right: 0.03mm

    I wonder if I have a combination of gib wear and table wear? Left hand side of gib is worn more than right, and table is worn more in the middle causing the same numbers when far right?

  14. #59
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    Default Try and repair or learn to live with it?

    Duplicate post.

  15. #60
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    Hi Neevo, Guys,

    It could very well be a combination of both wear on the gib and table dovetail. You should be able to lock the table by screwing the gib in, if it doesn't tighten the table up you need to make a new gib strip or shim it.

    Making a new tapered gib is not difficult. Carefully measure the old gib, before you put it back with a shim in the back and make a new gib on your own mill. You will need to pack the work piece carefully so that it is properly angled and supported for milling. A suitable length of brass or mild steel bar can be used since its unlikely that you will find any suitable cast iron.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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