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  1. #811
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    114

    Default

    This might be operator error

  2. #812
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    134

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by topari View Post
    This might be operator error
    hi
    what were you machining
    steve

  3. #813
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default What did you learn today?

    Quote Originally Posted by topari View Post
    This might be operator error
    Preposterous!! Next you'll be telling me that the dark blue chips should have been an indication it was working a touch hard....

    Yup - 100% operator error for sure!

    I'll add that it was an interesting situation at the time.
    My first thought was "wow - that would make a cool photo"
    Then "what the hell do I do now? If I hit the E-stop then the spindle will stop and the cutter will be fusion welded to the work forever...."
    I decided to just kill the feed, leave the spindle running and drop the knee to get it out of the work.

    Workpiece is recoverable


    Steve

  4. #814
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Did that hit something hard in the material ?
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #815
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Did that hit something hard in the material ?
    I don’t think so John.
    Material is a bit of forklift tyne.
    500 RPM at 80mm/min feed full width cut but only about 4mm deep. I’d just finished a 10mm deep pass full width and a couple of half width with no issues.
    I honestly think it just went dull and with no coolant it just went from dull to blunt to red hot and plastic due to friction heat.

    If it was being manually fed then you’d notice the change but 2kw power feed and 3kw spindle didn’t feel a thing....

    Steve

  6. #816
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,541

    Default

    A 20mm cutter in MS should be run at less than 450rpm, if cutting alloy steel about half that (forklift tyne is likely to be a steel alloy).
    Overspeed will heat and destroy cutters really quickly.

    Michael

  7. #817
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Thanks Michael. I need to remember that I’ve got the FSWizard app on my phone that takes the guesswork out of it (pretty much what I’ve been doing).
    I just threw the values in and it came out at 280rpm and 40mm/min feed.

    It’s one of the HSS roughest I got from Magpro (M&G) so fair to say I think they must be reasonably quality to hold up as well as it did running at twice the recommended speed and feed.

    Steve

  8. #818
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Athelstone, SA 5076
    Posts
    4,255

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bob ward View Post
    I bought myself a cheapie vacuum pump off ebay recently, the pumps are posted dry otherwise oil will leak when the parcel gets tumbled in the delivery process.
    So I'm trying to find a litre of HLV32 vacuum pump oil but everyone only wants to sell me 20 litres at a bazillion dollars per litre when I remember that I know a retired refrigeration mechanic.
    His advice was, and this was something he used to do with his own professional grade vacuum pumps, was to use a light hydraulic fluid such as power steering fluid.
    Problem solved.

    being a fridgie we used vacuum pumps all the time. less than 500 microns is the goal.

    although we could get so called "vacuum pump oil" we, the industry, generally just used refrigeration oils of the viscosity of 68 or 46 AC guys used 68 while commercial refrig guys used 46 as that is what those industries generally used to run with the industry specific refrigerants...used to be mineral oils but now synthetics.

    can get it in small quantities from any refrigeration wholesaler...can even get "Vac Pump" oil in smaller quantities.

    the trick to get low vacuums is to change oil oil, then change again and then again. ..while breaking vacuum with dry nitrogen...and in the event of not having nitrogen break the vacuum with air. No not Oxygen...Air, plane old atmospheric airt....and preferably not on a rainy day...then evacuate again, repeat and evac again.....one only generally did this to suit prove to the Consultant the system was DRY.

    and automotive oils engine (or steering pump oils) are not the go......they are not dry....the ppm of moisture is too high and will prevent pump from its ability to pull low vacuums..... their acidic values is also too high and are contanminated with cleaning additives...he was obviously a rough fridgie and didnt care about the vacuums he should have been obtaining...ie 500 microns or better

  9. #819
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    I don’t think so John.
    Material is a bit of forklift tyne.
    500 RPM at 80mm/min feed full width cut but only about 4mm deep. I’d just finished a 10mm deep pass full width and a couple of half width with no issues.
    I honestly think it just went dull and with no coolant it just went from dull to blunt to red hot and plastic due to friction heat.

    If it was being manually fed then you’d notice the change but 2kw power feed and 3kw spindle didn’t feel a thing....

    Steve
    I was going to say that you might feel it in the back pocket, but with M&G it probably won't hurt that much. Niagra would wipe any grin from your dial I would imagine, a good learning experience, thanks for the free lesson.

  10. #820
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

    Default Ball turner from rotary table

    Saw a clever trick on the homemadetools forum a while back. Might be handy for someone.

    A ball turner for lathe made by mounting the rotary table from the mill on the cross slide of the lathe. Nice bit of thinking.

    Video here https://www.facebook.com/dwight.belt...14500798814834

    Bill

  11. #821
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    1,038

    Default Spring wire / music wire / piano wire

    I bought 2 x 1 lb rolls of music wire, 1.4mm and .8mm to make some springs. The packaging is well thought out so that the coil of wire remains contained/restrained safely in the box and the required wire can be drawn from the centre opening. Four notches are provided around the centre opening as rests for the cut end.
    What I learned today is that if you don't have enough length of cut end sticking out and it slips back in the box you are screwed, it is impossible to find the cut end again.

    I also learned that its best if the cut end hangs out of the box by 100mm and has a loop on the end, the first photo shows good (learned) practice.

    The second photo shows what you end up with after you have sorted out the mess when you lose the end.

    IMG_3682.jpg


    IMG_3681.jpg

  12. #822
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Toorloo Arm, VIC
    Age
    39
    Posts
    1,270

    Default

    Couldn't you just have the wire end come out one slot, then tuck the end back in at the next slot around to save on bending loops in the end? So for the top example pictured, just tuck the end into the lower left slot.

  13. #823
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Picked up the mapp torch to heat up a bit of 8mm rod for bending.

    It’s one of the Bernzomatic auto ignition ones. Pulled the trigger - could hear gas but no ignition.
    Bugger, the piezo must be dead
    Grabbed a lighter, and lit it but very low flame, so I think it must be nearly out of gas - maybe why it wouldn’t light on the piezo.

    Pull off the cylinder and give it a shake - nope - plenty of gas...
    Grrrr - whats going on.....
    Removed the nozzle and checked the piezo was working - it was.

    Has to be blocked somewhere....
    Blow some compressed air up the torch through the mixing holes at the base, but still no change.
    Finally - blowing back down the torch produced a small string of spider web. Little bugger must have been up there all along.

    I’ve had a crap day so far, but now feel slightly better knowing it’s been better that a certain spider’s one

    Steve

  14. #824
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,943

    Default

    Those little sods can get into the most awkward spots. Glad to hear it's working again.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  15. #825
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,183

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Has to be blocked somewhere....
    Blow some compressed air up the torch through the mixing holes at the base, but still no change.
    Finally - blowing back down the torch produced a small string of spider web. Little bugger must have been up there all along.
    Had a similar thing happen while transferring some bluing (Engine) oil from a 5L container using a narrow necked funnel. It was old-new oil I got from cleaning out deceased FILs sheds last year and it was moving very slowly through the funnel - I noticed the label said it was 50W so I thought maybe its just that viscous - I usually use 30W. The oil stream slowly reduced to just a dribble so I decided to take a look - sure enough it was a dead spider being forced further and further into the funnel neck

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