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  1. #796
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    Jun 2008
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    Lindenow
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    I learned that you should ALWAYS check your welding gas regulator before you crack the bottle. Not only smash 2 teeth out of your mouth, they also destroy the twin fluro tube fixture over your head and punch quite a large hole through a color bond roof when they explode !!!!!!!

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  2. #797
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    64
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    Sorry to hear about the injury and damage, what method are you going to use to check their condition?

  3. #798
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    Jun 2008
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Sorry to hear about the injury and damage, what method are you going to use to check their condition?
    At this stage I have no idea mate....
    Once I get my nerve back I will start research and see what I come up with, then start a new thread on my findings.

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  4. #799
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    7,182

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    Quote Originally Posted by matthew_g View Post
    I learned that you should ALWAYS check your welding gas regulator before you crack the bottle. Not only smash 2 teeth out of your mouth, they also destroy the twin fluro tube fixture over your head and punch quite a large hole through a color bond roof when they explode !!!!!!!
    OUCH DANG

    Good reminder.

  5. #800
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    2,651

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    Sorry to hear - glad you’re still able to post about it. Nasty but sounds like it could have been much worse.
    Very keen to hear what the actual issue was as i think it’s the first gas regulator explosion I’ve heard about (oxy explosion issues aside). I’m struggling to think of a failure mode that would result in that happening.

    Steve

  6. #801
    Join Date
    Nov 2019
    Location
    Brisbane
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    69
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    452

    Default Serial taps

    Quote Originally Posted by WCD View Post
    I don't know about full bottles of good oil, but I purchased these serial taps at a sale (possibly one of those legendary MacPherson's sales) in the mid 1970s when NC machining was not so common. At the time it was explained to me that serial taps were a European concept, either outmoded or just not popular here. Of course it could still be that they were (and are) intended for automated tapping, but Narex seems to have always concentrated on hand tools, and still does.
    Attachment 386076

    Bill
    Hello from BC.
    I dealt with a few toolmakers years ago that came from Europe. Serial taps were explained to me as each having a progressive larger finishing diameter. So the starter tap would only cut a bit, then the inter a bit more and the finisher went to full size. Those I bought for them came from Boyar Trading Co of Coburg Vict. Very expensive but were supposed to give a more accurate result. I have my doubts as they were carbon steel not HSS. Still the results were there.
    Spiral flute taps will cut with less torque due to the high rake angle formed by the flute. Be careful as they are not as strong as gun taps.
    Regards
    BC

  7. #802
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

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    Quote Originally Posted by matthew_g View Post
    I learned that you should ALWAYS check your welding gas regulator before you crack the bottle. Not only smash 2 teeth out of your mouth, they also destroy the twin fluro tube fixture over your head and punch quite a large hole through a color bond roof when they explode !!!!!!!

    Sent from my SM-A205YN using Tapatalk
    Hi Matt,
    There is only one defect I can think of what may cause that sort of explosion.

    That is the presence of oil or grease on the threaded bull nose that screws into the cylinder.

    That can cause what is described as dieseling. It happens precisely like the diesel injection sequence happens in a diesel motor.That is that the compression cycle is at maximum and the diesel oil injected into the high compression causes an explosion. Oxygen cylinder pressure is north of 2000lbs pressure certainly enough to cause an explosion of that magnitude.

    It can happen as innocently as changing over a a empty cylinder for a full one. The regulator is inadvertently laid on a surface that has oil or grease on it, unnoticed the then contaminated bull nose is screwed into the fresh cylinder.

    That goodness you are here to tell the tale. You are very lucky. Quite often such accidents turn out far worse

    Did you by chance change over the cylinder before the accident ? It may be worth getting your gas supplier to examine the cylinder.

    Grahame

  8. #803
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

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    Hi Mathew, Guys,

    Quote Originally Posted by matthew_g View Post
    I learned that you should ALWAYS check your welding gas regulator before you crack the bottle. Not only smash 2 teeth out of your mouth, they also destroy the twin fluro tube fixture over your head and punch quite a large hole through a color bond roof when they explode !!!!!!!

    Sent from my SM-A205YN using Tapatalk
    I've seen an oxygen bottle regulator blast the glass face and tube out of the housing when the bottle valve was cracked rapidly rather than slowly. No one was injured but it made quite a bang.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #804
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Lindenow
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    50
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    869

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Mathew, Guys,



    I've seen an oxygen bottle regulator blast the glass face and tube out of the housing when the bottle valve was cracked rapidly rather than slowly. No one was injured but it made quite a bang.
    That describes it sorta kinda. Blew the mouse ear gauge to bits. I have been wondering if the gauge may have been compromised over the last couple of months by being bumped or knocked etc etc.
    I still haven't been back out. I will grab a few photos when I go back out....

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  10. #805
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
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    Lindenow
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    50
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    G'day there Guys and Gals,
    Firstly I would like to say a huge thank you to all those who sent me private messages to wish me well, I also apologize for not replying to everyone. Between injury's sustained and life taking an interesting left turn I have been quite lazy with replying. Hopefully you all understand and will forgive me....

    I have been reluctant to wander out to the workshop for the last week and a half or so, the accident and pain associated has kept my very quiet..
    But the good news is I opened the door this afternoon specifically to get to my computer to write you all this... I WAS going to only do this and head back to the house, but I ended up spending a couple of hours cleaning up the mess associated, and putting other things away and shuffling some small projects ready to finish.
    So you could say "I'm back !!!"

    I will over the next day or two organize the photos I took and upload the relevant ones and post them. I will also document what, why and where it happened.

    So again, I am very very sorry I have been so tardy in my reply to everyone's PMs and comments in the thread.

    More to come..
    Matt
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  11. #806
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

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    Hi Matthew

    Thank goodness you are OK. After not hearing from you for a while, we were beginning to worry.

    Nice to have you back.

    Grahame

  12. #807
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Kingswood
    Posts
    930

    Default

    I needed to make a M12x1 LH nut for a grinder spindle, and didn't appreciate the shaft diameter measurement at 12.00 mm.
    All I 'saw' was metric nominally 12 mm.
    Made a test bar to check an existing nut with the normal accepted diameter for general purpose fasteners, then screw cut the new nut.
    The new nut tested fine in the chuck using the test bar.

    Of course, when tested on the spindle, the nut was excessively tight requiring re-chucking.
    Some interesting time thread chasing, and the thread then opened up.

    I learned to pay attention to shaft diameter for screw cutting.
    John

  13. #808
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
    Posts
    1,038

    Default Vacuum pump oil - steering pump oil

    I bought myself a cheapie vacuum pump off ebay recently, the pumps are posted dry otherwise oil will leak when the parcel gets tumbled in the delivery process.
    So I'm trying to find a litre of HLV32 vacuum pump oil but everyone only wants to sell me 20 litres at a bazillion dollars per litre when I remember that I know a retired refrigeration mechanic.
    His advice was, and this was something he used to do with his own professional grade vacuum pumps, was to use a light hydraulic fluid such as power steering fluid.
    Problem solved.

  14. #809
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    Today I started a major clean up of the shed - this is because I'm giving an on line talk about dust management to some WA mens shed Association members from my shed. Can't have the shed looking like a tip can we.

    Anyway after 3 hours I made some progress and managed to chuck a few things out and learned the if you try really hard you can find hidden places for things I previously just did not know what to do with. I was feeling pretty good about all this and stood back to take a look and unfortunately it does not look that much better.

    Will give it another go tomorrow.

  15. #810
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
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    2,651

    Default What did you learn today?

    I learned that its only about 3 seconds from a 20mm roughing endmill going dull to it turning cherry red.
    I'd only been brushing on a bit of oil, noticed a slight change in tone and then saw the colour start to change. Think I need to start running coolant.....

    A quick hone and we should be good to go again



    Steve

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