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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
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    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I don't want to labour the point, but I oil my lathe every time that I use it, I keep the oil cups full and inject oil into the oil nipples daily. The oil nipples look like grease ones with the little ball in them. Actually I think that is why so many machines are worn and damaged for lack of lubrication, people mistakenly think they are for grease.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  2. #17
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    Aug 2019
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    Have you noticed the threaded hole in the body of the back gear, do you intend plugging that hole and then every so often removing it so you can fit a grease nipple to grease the back gear, generally it has a cheese head screw in their which gets removed to allow for oiling of the back gear.
    Yes, Southbend manual recommended a nipple, so I have ordered 1/4WW grease nipples. Since the back gear turns so slowly, was thinking of leaving one in there permanently

  3. #18
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    Hi Guys,

    I don't want to labour the point, but I oil my lathe every time that I use it, I keep the oil cups full and inject oil into the oil nipples daily. The oil nipples look like grease ones with the little ball in them. Actually I think that is why so many machines are worn and damaged for lack of lubrication, people mistakenly think they are for grease.
    The spindle bearings (top and front) do deserve oil every few days use. I have the traditional caps, not the push-in thingies.

    Thought about the glass oilers - too fragile.

    Found some taller metal oilers - about 1 1/2" high by 1/4 diameter, but thought they would look funny.


    For now, will try just filling the old style caps before each use, and see how fast my "air tool oil" leaks out!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default

    Hi Guys,

    I like the traditional glass oilers, I don't have any though. You can get clear plastic glasses for them !

    "Adams" make the various sizes of cup and drip oilers here in the UK.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #20
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    Aug 2019
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    Default Week 5.5

    too many photos for a weekly update, so half weekly for now!


    When What
    Friday Delivery from Mal arrived.

    Front oilers and back gear set screws:
    IMG_1535.jpgIMG_1536.jpg
    The refurb manual says "82. Model A,B,C: Back-gear adjustment. Engage the back-gears using the eccentric lever and allow the mating gears to bottom out." No chance with my worn gears!

    No-where near bottoming out. About 1/32" away?

    I will just adjust the stop so that I don't jam my fingers
    IMG_1537.jpg
    Now, the reverse selector & gears.

    I need to make this pile of broken parts like the picture in the manual
    IMG_1540.jpg
    There are some nasty burrs on the side of these gears. They run against a flat iron casting. Thankfully, these are easy to file flat - iron or mild steel. IMG_1541.jpg
    Remove the old oil wicks, and cut some new. The refurb manual says to use a square/rectangular wick, but I used 3/16 round IMG_1542.jpgIMG_1543.jpgIMG_1544.jpg
    A little oil, and it slips right in. Note the nut - one corner badly ground off?? IMG_1545.jpgIMG_1548.jpg
    The other gear is similarly munged on the edge, and its nut is also ground away! IMG_1549.jpg
    Now for the selector casting.
    (two castings in my case, because it is broken!)

    A 3/16 by 3/32 felt gets cut, and forced to fit flat in the groove.
    IMG_1550.jpgIMG_1551.jpg
    Shove the shaft in there, and we are finished, right? IMG_1552.jpg
    Wrong. The big gear binds about 5mm onto the shaft, and the little one is a little tight around the keyway.


    Slight file for the latter.
    Think about the former overnight.
    IMG_1553.jpg
    Saturday Decide to just force the big gear on using a press. It wasn't actually hard to do, just couldn't move it by hand.


    Tightening the gear shafts was a challenge. Dad's old 5/16 Whitworth spanner, and trialling a few different vices, were necessary to lock it in place
    IMG_1554.jpgIMG_1556.jpg
    The final shaft. Nut was tight. Dad's old 7/16WW spanner, and 3/8 WW taps and dies to the rescue! IMG_1577.jpg
    Mount on the headstock. It binds a little when turning the little gears by hand, but when driven by the spindle end, sounds and feels OK.

    Not sure I like the unpainted look. For handles, I have tried to leave them bare iron/steel, but maybe the casting behind the selector plunger should have been painted
    IMG_1578.jpg
    Now, onto the lead screw. Mostly seems good, except for slight damage near the end. (top of photo, 13 teeth along)


    I'm hoping I can panelbeat this - cold-chisel hammer the damage back to re-form the acme peak
    IMG_1579.jpg
    Screw the banjo bracket end onto the bed, and adjust the banjo angle for good meshing.

    Eureka! A lathe that will move its own saddle. Feeld good - even without oil on the feed gears
    IMG_1582.jpgIMG_1583.jpg
    Note that i managed to nudge the headstock out of position.

    Not bolted down tightly,
    not aligned/shimmed yet!
    IMG_1580.jpg
    Starting to look like a lathe now. Time for the drive unit.


    The shaft is a little loose - I can feel the wiggle, but when it is in both sides it feels a lot better.

    I might crush the casting - horizontally - a little if it leaks too much oil.
    IMG_1585.jpg
    Cut the felts. South Bend refurb manual shows something with bronze bush bearings and no wicks, so I'm guessing 3/16 by 3/32 IMG_1586.jpgIMG_1587.jpg
    Don't forget the drive belt IMG_1588.jpg
    These fibre washers from the refurb kit look correct.

    Note that the woodruff key is a poor fit - narrower than the slot.
    I'll just have to make sure the locking set screw is always tight
    IMG_1589.jpgIMG_1590.jpg
    Start working out where it all fits. The belt seems so long IMG_1591.jpg
    and yet, after aligning pulley sides with a straight edge, things don't seem correct.


    1) This hand-made tensioning rod seems too long. Could the belt have shrunk over the last 5 years?


    2) The bug wheel hangs over the back of my stand. Grrr. Can't put it hard against a wall (
    IMG_1594.jpgIMG_1595.jpg
    The other problem. Casting is 1/2" too far left - over the L on my stand. Inconvenient!

    I could try to move the lathe bed by that amount, but mounting the casting under the L would probably be wiser.
    IMG_1596.jpg
    P.S. Does anyone know what this large flat flange on the casting is for? IMG_1597.jpg
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 16th Sep 2019 at 08:47 AM. Reason: spanner/tap/die sizes

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    Default Week 6

    Some big steps forward


    When What Piccy Comment
    Monday Start on the tailstock. Hand wheel was already off.

    Take the barrel and screw out the lazy way, by driving them both out without undoing the nut.
    'twas a bit tight - had to use a mallet
    IMG_1611.jpg Note the 2 lock pin holes!
    Clean gunge out of the casting split, and yet another oil hole IMG_1612.jpgIMG_1613.jpg
    End of barrel has been badly bashed around. Can't read first inch of graduations

    Also does not slide smoothly in/out of casting.
    Some filing required
    IMG_1617.jpg
    More gunge removal IMG_1618.jpgIMG_1620.jpg
    As far as I can see, there is no way for oil to get inside the barrel. The oil hole on top of the headstock oils the outside of the barrel. So, grease the screw.


    Oh, and clean yet another oil hole - this one just oils the shaft in the nut
    IMG_1621.jpgIMG_1624.jpg
    Grease the nut a little, because it will be a while before I dribble oil inside it.


    Screw it tight, so that the oil hole points up and forms a teeny-tiny reservoir
    IMG_1625.jpgIMG_1626.jpg
    Shaft still binds inside the nut. Separate, file screw shaft, re-assemble IMG_1628.jpg
    Finally got it feeling good. I needed a tiny washer so that there was no gap between the handwheel and the nut - otherwise the barrel and thread can wiggle left/right.

    I suspect this is not an original handwheel - hence the two pin holes.
    IMG_1630.jpgIMG_1631.jpg
    OK. Headstock and tailstock are refurb'd, time for some alignment.


    Clean out the spindle, borrow an MT3 drill, and trial fit. Binds in a few spots, so sandpaper a burr or two
    (different spots - on both the drill and in the spindle)
    IMG_1632.jpg
    Get some centres and check alignment
    (couldn't find an MT2 dead centre)

    From top, pretty close.





    From front, tailstock looks nearly 1mm low?




    IMG_1633.jpgIMG_1634.jpgIMG_1635.jpg
    OK. Thinking cap time. Serial number on tailstock is mismatch, so I might have to shim it. Bed was in bad shape, so tailstock might be in a slight dip.

    I tried extending the tailstock barrel a few times. Similar results.

    I slide it up and down a few times while holding onto headstock, and notice both of them rock a little. Aha. Tighten headstock
    IMG_1636.jpg
    Purists, look away now!!!


    Bottom of tailstock has nasty wear groove on chuck side of flat. My factory neighbour recommends some lapping in - not with valve grinding paste, but just fresh sheet of fine, quality, ceramic sandpaper
    IMG_1637.jpg
    So, it is now a little better.

    Having used an unworn part of the bed to flatten the tailstock, I look at the rest of the bed.

    It needs attention, but I'm tired and can barely see the dips and grooves. Tomorrow
    IMG_1638.jpg that was as good as I could get the bed with a 2nd cut file, about 5 weeks ago!
    Tuesday I will have to shim the tailstock. Time to crack it open IMG_1639.jpg Scrape the new paint, which is now scratched/worn everywhere except in this seam
    Nope, it wasn't the paint. Many bashes with the mallet, and it finally splits.

    Very tight little groove/keyway between the base and top
    IMG_1640.jpg
    Try the base on the bed, and realise the V also needs fettling.
    Purists, go get a coffee?

    More sandpaper. Note the material removal pattern on the right. Just like the bed. Only the very top and bottom of V were touching
    IMG_1641.jpg Much easier to sand just the base instead of whole tailstock. Lighter to push
    After a bit of lapping, it felt tight. Maybe 2 or 3 thou of rocking? Oil will take up that!

    Re-assembled tailstock and put centres back in. A 25thou feeler gauge under the left flat of the tailstock was close to aligning centres from the front.
    Too busy to
    take photos
    Split tailstock apart again.

    Time to shim.

    Found Dad's old 1950s brass shim set
    IMG_1642.jpg
    Micrometer located a 12 or 13thou sheet. Slice a few strips off that.

    (and gently sand the rough/serrated edges that the snips created)
    IMG_1643.jpg
    Gently clean the shims,




    and the groove in the base/top thoroughly.




    Might as well do the cam/lever while I can
    IMG_1644.jpgIMG_1645.jpgIMG_1646.jpg A hidden stamped number!
    OK. Shims ready to be crushed into place IMG_1647.jpg
    Oops - forgot to clean this oil hole
    (which lubes the cam/lever?)


    Re-assemble tailstock, for the last time!
    (???)
    IMG_1648.jpg
    Now, the saddle. Purists, watch TV?

    Lapp out the high ridges in the Vs. Some of them were bad, I had to scrape first, then lapp one side of the V at a time
    IMG_1649.jpgIMG_1650.jpg
    Finally, some polishing with a new sharpening stone and some oil.




    Also tidied the top of the Vs.

    A drill (19/32??) acted as a guide, laying on the flat, for the closest V. The rear pair I just did across both at once.
    IMG_1651.jpgIMG_1652.jpg
    Cleaning time - sandpaper and stone debris must be thoroughly removed. Metho and clean paper towels IMG_1653.jpgIMG_1654.jpgIMG_1656.jpg
    Slop some oil on the ways.

    The tailstock felt perfect - a decent push and it keeps going!

    The saddle still grabs a bit - especially when going past the headstock. More fettling required in the future.
    IMG_1657.jpg
    Refurb manual suggests putting the felt wipers on before assembling the saddle. I assume they should be soaked in oil.




    P.S. After observing how much fine metal the wipers pick up in the first few dozen wipes, I would actually leave fitting these till last
    IMG_1659.jpgIMG_1660.jpg
    OK. Tailstock floating on oiled bed, so back to checking alignment between centers.


    So, after about 3 hours, the centres basically line up. Not perfect, but unless I am centre drilling carburettor jets, it should suffice
    IMG_1664.jpg
    Wednesday Start on the slides.

    The compound slide was hammered tight (with a centre punch), so getting this cap nut off was hard.


    Thread in the cap needed cleanup. 7/32 WW?
    IMG_1669.jpgIMG_1671.jpg
    Tiniest key I've ever seen. Loose fit in the slot in the handle - too narrow - which meant the handle had a few degrees rotation before turning the shaft.

    This explains why someone took to the cap nut with a center punch
    IMG_1672.jpg woodrow the dog says woodruff?
    Cross slide. Locking cap nut came off easily, but the handle would not come off. Tapped with a hammer as much as I dared.

    Decided to leave as is.
    IMG_1673.jpg
    Compound slide angle locking grubscrews.


    One came out easily, one was tight. Guess which one is which?
    IMG_1675.jpg RHS needed some serious die cleanup
    Some nasty burrs which prevented smooth rotation IMG_1676.jpgIMG_1678.jpgIMG_1679.jpg
    Weird hole in cross slide. It is about 4cm deep, but goes nowhere????????????? IMG_1680.jpg
    Remove cross slide. Only had a large pin spanner. Had to improvise a little.


    Also had to panel beat the munged edges of the pin socket with a hammer, to try and put the material back into the edges of the hole!
    IMG_1681.jpgIMG_1682.jpg
    Finally, mounting the drive unit.


    This - about 8cm below the bed feet - is about as low as I can go and have the belt not foul the headstock.


    There is not a lot of room with the motor on the swing bracket. Wish I had tested this before I drilled & painted the stand
    IMG_1683.jpgIMG_1684.jpgIMG_1685.jpg
    I find a little box tray that I can cantilever in under my L sides. IMG_1687.jpgIMG_1688.jpgIMG_1689.jpg
    and the motor just clears it at the bottom (stretched belt) position.


    Just some bolt holes to drill, and a new drive belt.

    Tomorrow
    IMG_1690.jpg
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 18th Sep 2019 at 11:55 PM. Reason: missing images, correcting grammar

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    sydney ( st marys )
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    Default

    The hole in the centre of the Cross Slide is taped ( or should be ) it is for a Thread Stop .

  8. #23
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    The hole in the centre of the Cross Slide is taped ( or should be ) it is for a Thread Stop .

    Thanks. I didn't know there was such a thing until you told me. Mal has a picture here:

    https://australianmetalworkinghobbyi...product_id=692

  9. #24
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    Default Week 7

    Day Description Display Dross
    Thursday Make some holes in my shelf, bolt drive base casting in.

    Slotted opposite way to casting, for maximum alignment potential
    IMG_0004(1).jpg IMG_0006(1).jpg Will it spin?
    Will not spin without some illegal wiring!

    Nice alloy-capped switch from AliExpress. Diecast box and gland from Jaycar.



    Old cable from someone's old factory throwout.

    Note that, according to AS3000:2007+A2, those colours are not acceptable for 3Ø equipment – itz gotta be brown, black, grey. Installations (like a breaker box) use the still sensible red, white, and blue.
    IMG_0007(1).jpg IMG_0008(1).jpg
    A neat emergency stop. Dunno where to mount it yet. IMG_0010(1).jpg
    These "fillister screws" - from the lead screw hangers - are a bit used & abused. Panelbeating hammer, to push the mushroom back into the slot, improves that IMG_0011(1).jpg IMG_0013(1).jpg
    Friday Blow 50 years of dust (and decomposing fabric insulation?) out of the motor IMG_0014(1).jpg
    Remember the tensioning rod that was too long?

    I cut the elbow off the end, and heat with a butane torch



    and bend, and hammer and straighten,


    and find out it is now too short. Go home angry
    IMG_20190920_172634_213.jpg IMG_20190920_172718_447.jpg
    Saturday After some sleep, come back for more hammering, and straightening, and heating, and hammering, and it works!



    We have spinning. Here I am "honing" the pully - trying to create scratches perpendicular to the belt, but being too lazy to turn it by hand
    IMG_20190921_122312_848.jpgIMG_20190921_122733_272.jpg
    After cleaning the bed, I put the felt wipers on. Here is the result of about 10 passes of an oiled bed. Looks like the oil floated little Iron particles straight into the new, clean, waiting, felts

    Will try washing felts (with kerosine?). Next time, wipe everything with paper towel a few more times first
    IMG_20190921_123850_230.jpg Yes, I know they will get dirty
    Start on the compound slide.

    Southbend refurb manual says take apart with a pin spanner. Cross slide had a hole for a pin spanner.

    Still looking for that hole
    IMG_20190921_131743_586.jpg There might be vice grip marks there
    Found a MT2 dead centre in factory neighbour's junk.

    That'll wire brush out, right
    IMG_20190921_160140_082.jpg
    Monday Start assembling cross slide after second coat of paint.

    Gib screw threads were a bit average.

    Luckily, I have a BA tap/die set
    IMG_0002.jpg
    These are 1BA (or is it BA1?)








    Hint. If you are using a tap to cleanup a thread, clean the protruding end before you wind it back.
    IMG_0003.jpg IMG_0004.jpg
    Slide was a bit grabby on this left hand edge. Needed some careful filing IMG_0005.jpg
    Which lubricant will calm the feed screw of a cross slide?


    The oil hole only lubricates the shaft where it goes in the bushing, so I think the feed screw needs grease
    IMG_0007.jpg IMG_0008.jpg
    Large pin spanner, small shaft. Some wedging required. Sadly, it didn't go back in as easily as it came out. IMG_0009.jpg IMG_0010.jpg Zero is not facing up!
    Tighten the gib screws just a little.

    7mm spanner was all I could find –
    close enough to the original size?
    IMG_0011.jpg
    Tidy up compound rest lock screws.
    5/16 Whitworth?
    IMG_0012.jpg
    Grease the compound rest lock pins, because there is no oil supply in there IMG_0013.jpg
    OK. Start on the Apron. Tap the retaining ring into the gear,






    and press the wheel on the shaft
    IMG_0014.jpg IMG_0015.jpg
    It wasn't perfectly aligned, and I couldn't turn wheel on shaft. Engineering scribe is close to the size. Can I help align it with that?




    Nope. So, drift the shaft out of the wheel...
    IMG_0016.jpg IMG_0017.jpg
    and file and sand until we get them to the point I can align holes and get the pin in IMG_0018.jpgIMG_0020.jpg
    Handwheel and gear all good. Put the oil cap on to keep it clean. Note that the back of the cap used to hit my casting. One solution was to turn it 90°. Another solution is to not push the cap all the way into the 1/4" hole in the casting!




    Hmmm. I took this apart over a week ago. How does it fit?

    I don't want to have to read a manual
    IMG_0021.jpgIMG_0023.jpg
    Clean bronze half-nuts, and bolt them on.




    One of the half-nut set screws was weird. Would fit nicely back-to-front, but not the right way. Filing/sanding required.

    The other screw was perfect.
    IMG_0024.jpgIMG_0025.jpg
    Aah. A spring and pin. Now I remember. Of course, there is a set screw as well. And the apron has to be off the saddle to get to that





    Grease on the half-nut screws, because it is not under an oil feed, and not a lot will be sprayed under there





    Lastly, tighten up the half-nut's, screw's, nuts!
    IMG_0026.jpgIMG_0028.jpgIMG_0029.jpg
    Tuesday A lot of little miscellaneous tasks.

    I don't have a chuck key. Get a rusty old 1/2Whitworth coach bolt, lop a bit off the end, and grind it square
    IMG_0033.jpgIMG_0034.jpg
    Oiled up the bed well, and did some tests while attaching the rear gib plate See video 1 below
    Found a few gears that I forgot to felt.

    Refurb manual didn't say which size, I used smallest - 1/16x1/8"




    Playing around with the reversing gears showed that forward (down) was barely engaging, but reverse was good. Adjust the bracket casting for a better average result.

    Might have to machine the socket screw recess a little, so lever can go lower. Or maybe buy newer reversing gear set
    IMG_0037.jpgIMG_0041.jpg
    Note that the left spindle bearing seems to leak out of the bottom oiler!

    I think the oil from the top oiler is just running downhill, around the spindle.

    Yes I am using very thin oil, but maybe the left bearing needs more tightening???
    IMG_0039.jpgIMG_0040.jpg
    Over a month ago, Mal advised about shimming the lead screw hangers. I have been thinking about this for a while. Not easy for me to measure the wear when both my saddle and bed were very worn, and I have filed/lapped them.

    I decided the easiest way was to loosen the hanger screws, slide saddle to the right, engage the half nuts, and measure the gap. About 30thou.

    Note that the weight of the screw/hanger should be supported for more accurate feelering, but in my case it was a minimal difference.
    IMG_0042.jpgIMG_0044.jpg
    Found some brass sheet from an old power board that was close, trimmed, hammered, and fit. IMG_0045.jpgIMG_0046.jpg
    Not the other side. Harder to guesstimate, because of lead screw flex (half nut too far from hanger).


    Seemed to be about 40thou. Hacked a bit off an old brass hinge
    IMG_0047.jpgIMG_0050.jpgIMG_0053.jpg
    Lead screw damage. Was about th take it off and attach with a cold chisel, until I realised the half nut never goes that far to the right!

    Finally, align the tailstock. Mine only has one alignment screw. Had to use a 2"x5/16WW bolt. Now, the live center I was using has some wobble in the tip.
    IMG_0054.jpg
    Remember the rusty MT2 dead center? I spent some time buffing it, then fileing it in this lathe.

    1st, file the taper (see Video 2 below)

    2nd, file the tip. It was now a few thou smaller in diameter – bottomed out in an MT2 to MT3 sleeve – so I had to wrap paper twice around it to get a good fit.
    IMG_0057.jpg
    End result!!!!




    (faked macro lens on iPhone using my +1.5 glasses)
    IMG_0058.jpg




    Friction tests on saddle/bed:


    Fileing MT2 dead centre:




    That brings us to today. I have had fun working and documenting here, but seven weeks is a long time.
    And there are still things to do;

    1. Brace the stand. Waiting for motivation for the drip/chip tray. Was thinking stainless, but my friendly fabricator thinks it will look silly
    IMG_0062.jpg


    2. Install grease nipple, grease back gear and spindle pulley. Waiting for cheap Teflon grease - was thinking bike hub lube.
    IMG_0063.jpg


    3. Tailstock hand wheel handle. Original was press fit 1/4". This one is M6. Need a teeny tiny threaded sleeve?
    IMG_0064.jpg

    4. Finish compound slide. Third coat of paint is still drying:
    IMG_0065.jpg

    5. Tooling. I have the standard tool post, not anything else. Not even a 1/4 HSS holder.
    Was thinking of fitting something like this Chinese throw out rotating holder,
    but that will require thought, a block of iron and a mill (or a lot of filing):IMG_0066.jpg
    Plus, it is a small bolt through the center. Not very rigid?
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 25th Sep 2019 at 08:59 PM. Reason: Fixing missing stuff

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    Default Week 7.5

    This will be the last update for a while

    Day What
    Thursday Tailstock handle. Handwheel is 1/4 press fit.
    New handles from Mal are threaded M6.

    Luckily, I found a little furniture sleeve that fits
    IMG_0067.jpgIMG_0068.jpg
    The tidy way to do this would be to turn down the sleeve for press fitting, but since I don't have any tooling yet,


    drill through at 1/4", and then again at 5/16"
    IMG_0069.jpg
    Tappety-tap-tap,






    and finé
    IMG_0071.jpgIMG_0072.jpg
    OK. Onto the compound slide. Cleanup gib screw threads IMG_0074.jpgIMG_0076.jpg
    ...and manage to break slot heads on two because they were too tight in the 1BA tap


    Maybe these aren't 1BA?
    IMG_0077.jpg
    Assemble with 2 screws only. IMG_0078.jpg
    This is another hidden, un-oiled part, so I will use grease IMG_0079.jpgIMG_0080.jpg
    Tighten my pin-spanner-hole deficient feed screw assembly the only way I can.



    And put it on the cross slide, tightening the two grub lock screws, and we are done!
    IMG_0082.jpgIMG_0083.jpg
    ...except that I'm not going to use the lantern style tool holder. Gotta work out how best to mount this one: IMG_0084.jpg
    Friday New eBay purchase ($8.50 shipped).


    Got the cross slide to face up correctly
    IMG_0085.jpg
    Borrow some tooling.

    16mm Carbide holder is about the correct height:

    as is a 1/4 HSS holder.



    I tried a few other styles. 12mm Carbide, 1/4 brazed Carbide, and 3/8 HSS are all easy, with either a thick washer underneath, or shims in the holder.
    IMG_0090.jpg IMG_0095.jpg
    Thought about how much a set of 16mm holders and inserts will cost me - the one I borrowed is Mitsubishi.

    A set of something that quality will hurt!

    Thought about how badly a set of cheap 1/4 brazed Carbide will cut. The rigidity of a 16mm set might be worth the cost if I can diamond grind some clearance in the inserts?

    More research required.
    e.g. $198 with no spare inserts:

    Main.jpg
    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L0077
    Start making a T-nut to hold the tool post in.

    Will write this up somewhere else
    IMG_0098.jpg
    Saturday Spend many hours grinding a T-nut.


    End result, one solid(???) tool post:
    IMG_0119.jpgIMG_0120.jpg
    .
    .
    All done, bar the reckoning. How much did Barry's gift of a "free" lathe cost me.
    1. Rebuild kit - manual & felts $99.00
    2. Damaged/missing parts - front oilers, oil hole caps, back gear set screws & tension set, felt way retainer and screw, tailstock handle $46.05
    3. Parts shipping $46.15
    4. Steel for stand
    5. Other incidentals -
    Rust Guard paint, cable gland, switch+case, oil
    $101.00

    $55.00
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 28th Sep 2019 at 08:57 PM. Reason: added costing

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    The gib screw threads are 7/32" BSF.

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default Week 10? 11?

    So, now that I have been using it a little, I found out all the parts I forgot to repair!

    1) The saddle clamp.

    Bolted it in, but it doesn't grip very well
    IMG_0126.jpg

    IMG_0128.jpg
    a ridiculous amount of chamfer/wear on one side
    To the vice. Man the file. Flatten! IMG_0130.jpg
    Still doesn't grip well, but better than nothing
    2) A carriage stop. I don't have one.

    Now that I have a lathe with auto-feed, maybe I should make one?
    IMG_0136.jpg
    Grab an M8 threaded sleeve, and turn it down to fit..
    fit into this handy recessed hole IMG_0137.jpg IMG_0141.jpg
    to roughly clamp a bit of scrap angle
    3) A better chuck key.

    Find some steel that happens to be pre-cross-drilled!
    IMG_0147.jpg
    and use the hole as a guide to grind 4 flats
    (The steel was hard - not fileable,
    but Tungsten Carbide did turn the end flat)
    IMG_0149.jpg
    spring to reduce operator stupidity?
    A few weeks later, find a bit of 1/4" stainless rod IMG_0194.jpgIMG_0195.jpg Butane to the rescue
    a few bends, and viola! IMG_0196.jpgIMG_0198.jpg



    Somewhere in here, a neighbour asked me to save him some machining time.
    Roughing out some Aluminium Bronze, to make valve guides for a vintage car.




    These will eventually be 5/8". This material is extruded, and fairly tough. I borrowed one of his carbide tools. The corner broke off. Was ripping off about 10 or 20thou each cut. An accurate lathe will do the final machining. Speaking of accuracy, micrometer'd up the results to see how horrible my ex-school, filed-bed, un-aligned lathe really is;


    Rod 1 Rod 2
    Chuck end 0.656 0.6325
    1" along 0.6585 0.6335
    2" right 0.660 0.6345
    3" reversed 0.661 0.6350
    4" to starboard 0.661 0.6350
    5" -> 0.6605 0.6345
    6" 0.6595 0.6340
    7" 0.6577 0.6325
    8" 0.6565 0.631
    9" 0.6547 0.628
    10" 0.6525 0.626
    11" 0.6495 tailstock end


    Not horrible, and close to same diameter 7" or 8" out.

    I assume deflection in the material counts for some of the middle readings being larger.

    The inch or two closest to the tailstock (about 14 or 15" from the chuck) does feel tight, so I imagine I will be fettling that in the future to get those last few diameters up by 4 or 5 thou.









    OK. I have started actually using the lathe. Time for a quick once over.

    Main bearings. Not too hot, but the left one has some foam: IMG_0144.jpg
    Tightened that up a smidgeon.
    Oiler holes. Half of them are fill of little bronze chips. Grrr IMG_0192.jpg
    Apron. It is loose. I thought I did these screws tight? IMG_0193.jpg
    Wipers. All of them have little bronze chips. Double-Grrr IMG_0199.jpg
    Chuck. Action is OK, but jaws are a little tight in their grooves.


    I never stripped and cleaned it, so jaws out...
    IMG_0200.jpg
    ...and some ugly scraping of the caked-on dirt,

    some ugly filing of the outside


    and face
    IMG_0201.jpgIMG_0202.jpgIMG_0203.jpg
    vice jaws. Mostly OK, but some nasty grooves: IMG_0204.jpgIMG_0205.jpg




    Which brings me here, with a few remaining questions.

    1) How do you guys stop chips from going everywhere. I used cardboard on the side of the saddle to protect the ways, but after a humble 6 hours of machining, they managed to work in everywhere!
    I can imagine tiny little corks in the oiler holes, but the Hercus saddle just seems to push swarf unto the Vs.
    Has anyone worked out how to attach those concertina rubber bellow things to keep the ways clean?

    2) What do people do to keep dust off the thing. Anyone know a BBQ cover that fits well?

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nigelpearson View Post
    ...What do people do to keep dust off the thing?
    Go to somewhere like Spot light and look in the material remnants bins (especially the curtain ones).

    Michael

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
    Location
    Revesby - Sydney Australia
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,183

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    Go to somewhere like Spot light and look in the material remnants bins (especially the curtain ones).

    Michael

    Yes, old paint drop sheets, bed sheets.


    Just thought people might know a cover that actually fits well?

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    New South Wales
    Posts
    45

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by nigelpearson View Post
    So, now that I have been using it a little, I found out all the parts I forgot to repair!



    2) What do people do to keep dust off the thing. Anyone know a BBQ cover that fits well?
    On evilbay there is a camping equipment business in Tasmania that used to list various grades, sizes and colours of waterproof canvas offcuts / ends of rolls for something like $10 per metre length (2 metres wide) + postage. The longest single piece I ever bought from him was about 11 metres. There are other lengths like 1½ metres etc.

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