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  1. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    WOT, you paid $10.00 for the die grinder???
    Probably the best $10 I've ever spent

  2. #17
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    Guys does anyone else recommend the dremel for removing aluminium? Bunnings sells a dremel 200 for $70 thinking about buying it todayI read on a web site with their honest description the air die grinder used 4cfm but 650 litres under load i would get about 25 seconds use before my compressor turns on again thats crazy

  3. #18
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Guys does anyone else recommend the dremel for removing aluminium? Bunnings sells a dremel 200 for $70 thinking about buying it todayI read on a web site with their honest description the air die grinder used 4cfm but 650 litres under load i would get about 25 seconds use before my compressor turns on again thats crazy
    How much Al do you want to remove and how often do you have to do this?

    Maybe describe the job or task you are trying to achieve.

  4. #19
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    Hey Bob its the starter motor i welded in the other prep thread here is a pictures once i attach the side broken off bit i need to grind down all the internal excess welds that blow thru with penetration and machine it for a really nice smooth fit and finish

    you can tell the size of the job by my hand so it is quiet tight in some locations and the bit that needs welding next is only 2mm thick so its likely there will be a lot of penetration to the inside meaning i will need to cut it all back

    i am looking at the ozito or dremel rotary tool mostly for their small size and light weigh, every now and again i will come across a motorcycle, jetski, etc... that i buy and needs the crank cases welded so one of these little tools might come in handy
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  5. #20
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    In my book that's not really a Dremel job.

  6. #21
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    The only Ozito tool I have is the "Dremel" type. Bought for one job and then used on a few others to see if it was worth it.
    The actual bits - not worth the money. Not suitable for your job.
    Started to question my purchase when the case starts to separate when doing up the collet.
    For what you want to do, a die grinder will be better than a "Dremel" type tool.

  7. #22
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    I would definitely agree with BobL that job is outside thescope of what a Dremel is suited to.
    For my money, a die grinder is the go, electric or air the choice is yours. My personal preference is air. I have used Makita, Dewalt and Bosch electric die grinders and while they did the job, I didn't bond with any of them, but an air die grinder in my mitt just seems right. My own long suffering die grinder was bought around 1995 for the princely sum of $40 brand new in a kit with stones etc. It still goes strong, but I make sure to oil it regularly.
    Whatever air grinder you buy, it needs to be oiled or it will die.
    A cheap air tool seems to be a better option than a cheap electric tool as far as performance goes in my experience.
    A word on carbide burrs. A burr designed for aluminium will not work on steel, but one designed for steel will work for aluminium, although not cut as fast. You also need to use candle way or CRC as a lubricant with aluminium or it will stick and gum up the burr.
    Any air tool needs a decent compressor as they will consume more air than blowing things down or basic spray painting. Make sure your compressor oil is topped up, your intake filters are clean and your compressor has decent air flow around it for cooling.

  8. #23
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by Karl Robbers View Post
    A word on carbide burrs. A burr designed for aluminium will not work on steel, but one designed for steel will work for aluminium, although not cut as fast. You also need to use candle way or CRC as a lubricant with aluminium or it will stick and gum up the burr..
    Wax is good because it can be applied to the burr and top the work and it sort of hangs around. The other lube that can be used with Al (not steel) is meths - it doesn't hang around very long but that means it evaps and leaves no residue. My BIL is a skilled boiler maker by trade but has spent the last 30 years of his life as a boat builder. He makes extensive use of woodie routers and router bits (not for the faint hearted) and uses wax as the lube. He does lots of outside corner welds on Al plate and then builds up the corner and runs round-over router bits over the corners and then a fine disc sander and it truly looks like a round bent piece of ally. In tight places also uses electric die grinders with router bits (DANGER WILL ROBINSON) or burrs. He really is Mr Magic at his stuff.

  9. #24
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    I bought an air die grinder a year or two back - brilliant tool, but also woefully inefficient - whether it's doing work or not, it consumes the same amount of air when running, and your compressor will be running constantly. Mine accidentally got wet, and that was it. Went and bought the Makita electric one that seems popular, haven't regretted it yet.

    I should note, the chips that come off the carbide burrs are nasty, sharp little buggers, so extra eye protection is recommended.

  10. #25
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    Picked up the ryobi die grinder and these set of burrs less than $55 for both
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  11. #26
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    Got home and like all new toys had a go this thing is ridiculously an animal i only tried one burr the bottom one in the last picture i think its like 7mm it was bouncing around a little but with a bit of bracing my hand it became easier, at 90psi full bore this thing was just ripping the aluminium off but i started out at around 75 to 80psi because the compressor wont reach kick off untill its warmed up a little, gotta be careful with this thing and not removing to much aluminium

    not a perfect job as i welded from the outside thru the metal but i am stoked it worked great first time using a die grinder i was a bit unsteady but i think it worked good, had i welded from the inside to outside it would be a much better finish

    i may have to make a extension bar on the lathe for the carbide burr bit to reach down into the next part

    the safety switch is a bit dicky hard to take it off lock that is the only fall i thought about removing it but if i were to step on the lever it would rip my foot apart so i will leave it on
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  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    Hey Bob its the starter motor i welded in the other prep thread here is a pictures once i attach the side broken off bit i need to grind down all the internal excess welds that blow thru with penetration and machine it for a really nice smooth fit and finish

    you can tell the size of the job by my hand so it is quiet tight in some locations and the bit that needs welding next is only 2mm thick so its likely there will be a lot of penetration to the inside meaning i will need to cut it all back

    i am looking at the ozito or dremel rotary tool mostly for their small size and light weigh, every now and again i will come across a motorcycle, jetski, etc... that i buy and needs the crank cases welded so one of these little tools might come in handy
    Hi Gazza,

    Maybe no help, but a few weeks ago Aldi or Lidl, I can't remember which sold a really nice die grinder !
    I bought one, if I remember rightly it was about £20 or thereabouts. It takes upto 1/4" tool bits and is variable speed. I'll take a picture of mine later if you want.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #28
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    All good Baron, I looked everywhere for the best deal hare and forbes, sydney tools, repco, super cheap auto, auto barn, ebay, bunnings, the best was the Ryobi at bunnings a lot of the other ones looked very generic there was one on ebay i think its listed price is something like $150 but its marked down to like $40 a SP Air Die Grinder one of those ridgie didge brands i was going to buy it but had no funds in the bank

    the carbide burr kit i bought from this shady looking very cheap'ish Chinese tool shop in Bankstown in Sydney basically a one man team running a store filled with Chinese products i was told the tools were from Taiwain but seen plenty of China tools on the wall, Was quiet happy to snag the carbide burr kit for $20 he had other sizes that looked to be 3mm and six mm and some single packet burrs for $10 each but i only bought what i could afford and needed

    while i was in bunnings i noticed they also sold a really cheap die grinder for $15 i suspected it would be cheap and would use a lot of air for no guts and Ryobi is a well established brand so chose that

    while we are on the topic of air tools i am wondering if i should just borrow a couple coins and buy a new air compressor i currently have a Pilot Air 10.8cfm one of the medium range air compressors but its a bit the RPM doesn't go from "High to Low" thancut out at max pressure i changed the start/run capacitor but its still playing up it will run at "High than hit a Low than spring back into High than a Low" RPM and reach the cut off pressure i am also getting some belt squeel in the upper cut off range the only thing i have done was change the belt quiet easily there is 10mm deflection in the belt at mid point the only other thing is i have replaced the oil with Gulf Western Air Compressor Oil is there such a thing as too thick of an oil to pump so much that its causing drag on the compressor pump?

  14. #29
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by gazza2009au View Post
    . . . . is there such a thing as too thick of an oil to pump so much that its causing drag on the compressor pump?
    Yes there is there is - Compressor oils range from about ISO ~68 to ~220 depending on compressor type and temperature.

    ISO 100 is typically used for small compressors and 160 is used for industrial 3P compressors.
    Most compressors will handle both of these
    BUT

    If you put 160 into a small compressor with a borderline motor relative to the pump head, on a cold day the compressor motor might find it harder to start, or even stop working when it gets into the hard work zone (~90PSI range)

    Belt squeal suggest slippage - it then gets hot and should grip better but it its too lose it won't grab and it will keep squealing.

  15. #30
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    Hi Gazza, Guys,

    As promised I took a picture of mine. It is from Aldi and it cost me £24.99p

    17-08-2019-06.jpg

    This will rip just about anything I've tried.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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