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  1. #1
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    So I pulled the top cover off the lathe and my heart sank.. Someone in times past has welded the high/low selector dog to the low gear on the spindle effectively limiting the machine to around 140 rpm max speed. The original maximum speed of 530 rpm was on the low side compared to other machines but would have been ok for my needs..

    20190608_180238L.jpgIMG_2746 (1).jpg

    Given the age of the machine and the fact that the manufacturer no longer exists the chances of procuring replacement parts are extremely slim at best.. I guess my only hope is to track down a donor machine and cannibalise the parts out of that.. Otherwise I have no idea what I'm going to do. Athough it appears that the welds are not that great I don't know if it is even possible to separate the two pieces.. I guess I'll need to pull them off the shaft and have a look.

    Which leads me to my next question.. How do I remove the chuck from the spindle? From the info available on the net the lock nut you can see in the picture keeps the front bearing in place and does nothing to retain the chuck.. The only lathe that I have used to this point is a small Sieg C6 and the chuck was retained with lock nuts on a backplate. I'm assuming that the backplate shown in the attached image is meant to stay with the chuck.

    20190611_215738L.jpg
    Anyway whilst I'm a little disheartened I am not defeated (yet)..

  2. #2
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    A machine this age will be a threaded mount. Try using a big ass shifter on one of the jaws. It will be a conventional right hand thread. Do not use the back gear to lock the spindle. A machine this big may have some kind of spindle lock.

    I don't want to dishearten you, I have definitely ressurected some beaten machines but do your numbers.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    A machine this age will be a threaded mount. Try using a big ass shifter on one of the jaws. It will be a conventional right hand thread. Do not use the back gear to lock the spindle. A machine this big may have some kind of spindle lock.

    I don't want to dishearten you, I have definitely ressurected some beaten machines but do your numbers.
    I am already a little disheartened as I mentioned previously however it's simply a challenge.. I may just need to get creative. I'm keen to see this lathe operational again.

    From what I can see the spindle is threaded but I haven't seen a method to lock the spindle as yet. The lack of documentation certainly doesn't help..

  4. #4
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    I'm wondering whether that collar (with slot) behind the chuck is something to do with removing the chuck - a bit like a L0 chuck. You could unbolt the chuck from the flange and see if that gives a hint (mark the hole pairs so when you reassemble, you put it back the same way.

    That welding is a bit of a mess - which may help you. If you mask off the box around it, you may be able to grind that weld with the edge of an angle grinder disc. It does not look like it has penetrated very much, so if you can grind the stuff on the surface off, a sharp blow or two may crack the rest. Not sure that you will be able to pull the spindle without being able to slide the dog off while doing so. If you can free the dog, it then becomes easier - although you still should remove the spindle to clean out the grinding grit and dress up the parts that were welded - clean the last bits of weld off and check that it all functions as it should.

    Michael

    Added bit - don't despair just yet. While parts may not be available, good solid parts like that are usually not hard to make.
    Last edited by Michael G; 6th Jul 2019 at 05:42 PM. Reason: added a bit

  5. #5
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    I actually bet that the weld is there for a super dumb reason like a broken detent or worn shifter fork. Once you pull the spindle between all of us it should be solvable.

    Wish I was closer so I could see the butchery first hand, got some photos.

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post
    I'm wondering whether that collar (with slot) behind the chuck is something to do with removing the chuck - a bit like a L0 chuck. You could unbolt the chuck from the flange and see if that gives a hint (mark the hole pairs so when you reassemble, you put it back the same way.
    The slotted collar retains the spindle bearing from what I can make out..


    That welding is a bit of a mess - which may help you. If you mask off the box around it, you may be able to grind that weld with the edge of an angle grinder disc. It does not look like it has penetrated very much, so if you can grind the stuff on the surface off, a sharp blow or two may crack the rest. Not sure that you will be able to pull the spindle without being able to slide the dog off while doing so. If you can free the dog, it then becomes easier - although you still should remove the spindle to clean out the grinding grit and dress up the parts that were welded - clean the last bits of weld off and check that it all functions as it should.
    I'm hoping that is the case and that is what i'll be trying if I can.. Given that the welds don't look that great I'm hoping that the dog still moves on the spindle and if I can remove the chuck I'll try removing the spindle so that I can work on the unit outside the headstock.


    Added bit - don't despair just yet. While parts may not be available, good solid parts like that are usually not hard to make.
    That might be true but I don't want to be throwing too much money at it if I don't have to.. At the end of the day I bought this machine as a project and I knew it would probably have issues being so old so I don't mind putting some work into it..

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    I actually bet that the weld is there for a super dumb reason like a broken detent or worn shifter fork. Once you pull the spindle between all of us it should be solvable.

    Wish I was closer so I could see the butchery first hand, got some photos.
    You're probably right. The shifting mechanism is a toothed quadrant that lives below the selector dog and mates with the grooves in the dog. Yeah the weld is very agricultural.. There also doesn't appear to be a lot of wear on the high gear mating surfaces so I'm not sure how long this machine has been configured like this..

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flo View Post
    Someone in times past has welded the high/low selector dog to the low gear on the spindle
    You poor bugger. I've seen a few examples of machine butchery over the years but that has to be right up there with the best.
    Who ever did this was a crap fitter so if you are lucky he was an even more crap welder so, as the others have said, you might get it apart.
    If all else fails you can always run it from a VFD and get you speed control that way.
    Best of with it. Keep the progress pics coming

    peter

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by bollie7 View Post
    You poor bugger. I've seen a few examples of machine butchery over the years but that has to be right up there with the best.
    Who ever did this was a crap fitter so if you are lucky he was an even more crap welder so, as the others have said, you might get it apart.
    If all else fails you can always run it from a VFD and get you speed control that way.
    Best of with it. Keep the progress pics coming

    peter
    I guess it just makes the history of this machine that little bit more intriguing..

    And yes the VFD thing is an option..

    Thanks Peter.. Will do

  10. #10
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    I don't think there is any way to get that into a usable speed range, even if you put a 2880rpm motor and ran it at 70hz you'd still only get 400rpm. Which is only just acceptable. You have to de butcher it.

    Sent from my Nokia 8 Sirocco using Tapatalk

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by caskwarrior View Post
    I don't think there is any way to get that into a usable speed range, even if you put a 2880rpm motor and ran it at 70hz you'd still only get 400rpm. Which is only just acceptable. You have to de butcher it.
    The de-butcher option will be be the first port of call.. I'll reassess my options if that fails..

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flo View Post
    The slotted collar retains the spindle bearing from what I can make out..
    Flo
    I think Michael is talking about the collar behind the chuck and you are thinking about the collar in the headstock behind the bearing. Mind you I might be terribly wrong as well.
    Normally there is a big(ish) 'c' spanner that comes with the lathe and is used to loosen that collar behind the chuck for removal.
    Just thought there may be some confusion.

    Phil

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steamwhisperer View Post
    Flo
    I think Michael is talking about the collar behind the chuck and you are thinking about the collar in the headstock behind the bearing. Mind you I might be terribly wrong as well.
    Normally there is a big(ish) 'c' spanner that comes with the lathe and is used to loosen that collar behind the chuck for removal.
    Just thought there may be some confusion.

    Phil
    Hi Phil,

    I wish it was that simple but the collar behind the chuck is stationary when the chuck rotates.

    Front Bearing.JPG
    20190706_214832.mp4

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flo View Post
    Hi Phil,

    I wish it was that simple but the collar behind the chuck is stationary when the chuck rotates.
    Bugga.
    The chuck will definitely just unscrew with a right hand thread on the headstock spindle.
    A couple of years ago where I worked (in the best job I ever had) we got an old Servian lathe and apparently the chuck hadn't been off for over 40 years.
    To get it off I strategically placed a piece of wood on the lathe bed the opposite side to where you stand and opened one of the jaws so that when the chuck was rotated backwards the jaw would land on top of the piece of wood in about the horizontal plane.
    After several attempts at rotating the chuck backwards by hand making the chuck jaw hit the piece of wood, it came loose.
    An old tradesman taught me this method years ago and it actually worked. Shocked the pants off me it did.
    This may or may not work on the New Visby though having used one a bit where I was an apprentice I know they are a nightmare if the chuck was slammed home during installation. They should just be gently screwed up to the collar

    Phil

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the suggestion Phil. I'll give that a go..

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