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  1. #2221
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    near Rockhampton
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    6,216

    Default

    A couple of things. Mounted a truck stub axle between centres to turn off damaged section to resleeve.

    20181217_103835(0).jpg

    Got the 4 jaw fitted up to the borer.

    20181218_065556.jpg20181218_065539.jpg20181217_180921.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  2. #2222
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
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    Default

    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  3. #2223
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    69

    Default

    Looks great.
    May I ask what the reason was for using t-nuts rather than just drilling and tapping the backing plate.
    I assume it gives some adjustment for concentricity but would be nice to do that with a shoulder too.
    Cheers

  4. #2224
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    It means you can use things with a different hole PCD.

    What gave me the idea was this borer that this fellow uses.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V7o-_Vgm3yI
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  5. #2225
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    69

    Default

    Nice
    Id been thinking of making a stub arbour like that with a 50 taper holder in the end so I can run a big face mill. I know a guy that has heaps of 50 taper tooling so it’s pretty easy to work with.
    i haven’t actually had the facing head off the one at home. A bit of a pain using the borer as a mill with it still on there due to the speed restriction.

  6. #2226
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Australia east coast
    Age
    71
    Posts
    2,713

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EFI_914 View Post
    Nice
    Id been thinking of making a stub arbour like that with a 50 taper holder in the end so I can run a big face mill. I know a guy that has heaps of 50 taper tooling so it’s pretty easy to work with.
    i haven’t actually had the facing head off the one at home. A bit of a pain using the borer as a mill with it still on there due to the speed restriction.
    I took the boring/facing head off of my Kearns OA and generally leave a 40 taper Flash Change adaptor in the spindle. I've a fair amount of Flash Change tooling as it works in my other 40 taper mills as well.

    Also got most of an adaptor made to mount a 28" diameter face plate to the HBM. I kept the face plate when I sold my old Smith-Drum lathe as the only reason I was keeping the lathe was its face plate capacity.

    Maybe in 2019 I might make a start on my other projects backlog. Maybe.

    PDW

  7. #2227
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default MAG-LITE Rescue

    Quick afternoon project-

    The batteries in my old 3-D cell Mag-lite were corroded in I couldn't remove them. So I cut the torch down on the bandsaw and single-pointed a 1mm pitch thread on the tube. Made a matching end cap and a Delrin sleeve to hold a 18650 Lithium Ion battery. Polished the bezel because I could. It already had a LED bulb so I now have a stubby Mag-lite that works well and doesn't cost a fortune to feed. I'll anodise the end cap with the next run.

    A smarter way to do it would have been to keep the original tail cap and the threaded end of the torch and turned the torch body and threaded end to a sliding fit. Then glue the two together with Loctite 641. By the time I realised this the back end of the torch had gone out in the rubbish. I'll do that with the 3-C Mag-lite I have laying around.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  8. #2228
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    7,182

    Default

    RE: Mobile vice

    Quote Originally Posted by Ropetangler View Post
    One other idea Bob which I can't take credit for is one used by radio amateurs sometimes when they want rig a vhf or similar vertical antenna for portable operation. One version is a piece of steel plate just large enough to cover a tyre footprint, and stick out the side enough to allow a vee shaped assembly of channel or even angle to be fastened to it. At the base of the vee a socket for your unistrut could be welded.
    I finally got to try the vice mount on the Subaru tow hitch/receiver.
    A couple of outcomes.
    Firstly on the subaru I found I don't need to get down onto my knees to switch the towball hitches so I could just easily swap hitches
    It's my van where I have to get down on my knees to swap - I don't use the subaru that much so I not that familiar with it.
    Next, the towbar/hitch rattles around way too much in its receiver, I was thinking of adding a corner locking bolt but that would mean taking the towbar mount off the subaru - ie too much work.

    So I dragged out a length of 8 x 100 mm flat bar from my stash as per Ropetanglers suggestion above and attached the existing unistrut base plate to the flat bar end with 4 , 8mm socket screws. This weighs around 5.5kg compared to the tow bar's 4kg but I'll tell SWMBO she'll have to take 2 less bottles of wine, I don't know why she has to take so many as we can almost buy as cheaply in a nearby town.

  9. #2229
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    I'll tell SWMBO she'll have to take 2 less bottles of wine
    https://youtu.be/EhyrjbvDHT8
    Chris

  10. #2230
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    After all that, I sure hope that it worked satisfactorily for you both.
    And on another note, I hope that everyone has had a really nice Christmas, we did and are now nearly recovered from the mad rush, we have been with daughter and SIL and two grandchildren at Bicheno on Tasmanian E. Coast with visitors from Dublin, Ireland of our son and his lovely wife. Happy daze, (spelling intended).

  11. #2231
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

    Default Another MagLite

    Another MagLite conversion. It was a 2-C size. I shortened it by 40mm. This time I reused the original tail cap. It uses the same drop-in LED bulb and a 18650 lithium battery with a Delrin sleeve as the last one I did.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Chris

  12. #2232
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    Perth WA
    Age
    71
    Posts
    6,458

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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    Another MagLite conversion. It was a 2-C size. I shortened it by 40mm. This time I reused the original tail cap. It uses the same drop-in LED bulb and a 18650 lithium battery with a Delrin sleeve as the last one I did.
    Hi Chris,

    When you say "drop-in LED bulb" is the LED an original Maglite part or an aftermarket ring in? If it's the latter could you provide some details please.

    Bob.

  13. #2233
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
    Posts
    3,228

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    Hi Bob,
    I've been using the Terralux brand LED bulb replacement. This type:

    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TERRALUX-TLE-6EXB-LED-UPGRADE-Bulb-for-2-to-3-Cell-C-and-D-Maglite-Flashlights/401671971015?epid=1839002865&hash=item5d8583e0c7:g:X00AAOSwo4pYf0Jg:rk:1f:0


    I grabbed mine on a recent US holiday and avoided the crazy USA-AUS postage.

    Here's an Aussie seller's 'name brand' offering:
    https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/MAGLITE-...Sbzw:rk:1:pf:0

    There are also many no-name brands on eBay. I can't vouch for them, but they are so cheap it would be hard to go wrong. If you wan't to use an 18650 lithium battery you need a LED bulb that has a voltage range that includes 3.7V.
    Chris

  14. #2234
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

    Default

    Made 3 flycutters- investigating how they work and best way to grind tools.

    The best finish was from good old hss in one of those traditional, angled truncated cylinders .

    Best finish I have ever achieved on the RF30 mill - quite pleasing, especially on aluminium. Even got a silky smooth finish on black bar.

    Learning how to best grind the curved cutting tool and best feeds for doing the cut.

    HSS 2"diameter cut, 200RPM, approx 1" per minute feed and terrific finish on daggy black bar.

    Quite Chuffed.

    Am wondering about using a circular carbide bit or even a tangential flycutter using a hss round rod.

    Bill

  15. #2235
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Gippsland Victoria
    Posts
    733

    Default Flycutters

    Photos attached. Forgot first time. Got a few tips from the MEW forum re flycutter types in a recent thread.

    Best finish was with smallest flycutter 3/16 hss. Am sure other folk have achieved far better finish on a mill - this is the best I have ever done - all of my end mills and face mills are always a bit scratchy. Even if I remove all the cutters except one from the face mill its still a bit smeary and scratchy. Was wondering if I'd ever manage a decent finish on the mill.

    I need to learn a bit more about grinding the hss and speeds/feeds for the fly cutter. Got a few tips from the MEW forum re flycutter types.

    I can still see curved lines in the final surfaces and they show up in the photos but I can barely feel them with my fingers - the Al is a nicer finish than the black bar which is a bit blurry.

    The carbide bit is one of the JoeHovel/AnorakBob bits from a recent thread - the finish was nowhere near as nice as what it gives me on the lathe and was wondering if a circular carbide bit with a much bigger radius is worth trying ? Anybody used these on a flycutter ?

    Any suggestions / tips / web recommendations gladly welcomed.

    Bill
    Attached Images Attached Images

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