Thread: Your latest project

The hydraulic motor came from here https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HYDRAULI...P/222845805282

There were cheaper ones around, but with half the warranty. I also buy all my hydraulic hose and fittings off this mob. I can get hose and fittings cheaper then getting hose made up locally, and no local supplier will fit reusable fittings any more. It is all crimp on.

Why won't they fit reusable fittings? Is it mainly a cost thing?

I suspect a public liability thing.

Neat setup. I'm in the process of looking at buying an oil pump on wheels (or tracks) AKA a Dingo, and it occurs to me that I've got an old petrol-powered compressor pump and tank kicking about the back paddock somewhere which I could use to imitate this setup

+1 for the field-attachable hydraulic fittings. If you're after a bunch of hydraulics, including very cheap custom hoses, or need metric cylinders, this bunch are worth checking out - they're in the UK but since Brexit has put the pound in the toilet, the pricing in most cases is very good: https://www.flowfitonline.com/

I have bought off surplus center a few times, check this motor out 3.0 cu in White Drive Products 155050F3110AAAAA Hydraulic Motor | White | Brands | www.surpluscenter.com

A few years ago i bought 4 low speed high torque motors including postage from them for a bit less cost than just one motor in Australia

Thanks for posting those details.
Ive been looking for something that can be switched directions quick and easily. This might be worth having a go.

I am guessing this is not the correct way to start a new post, but shoot me down.
Nothing special as in machining, a bit of mag drill, mig welding and drill press work.
So a while back I picked up some bloody big lathe face plates. I kept the biggest 72 CM. Then a hydraulic lift table. Just waiting for the 2 button switch to turn up off ebay. So now I have my adjustable scraping, welding table. And a couple of granite new straight edges I scored. Cheers.
Having trouble adding a video clip.

For the uploading the pics - go here

//metalworkforums.com/showthrea...04#post1931904

I have not yet uploaded a video- so I'll have to check on that one unless someone else tells you first.

Grahame

argeng

The video link was staring me in the face.
God knows how long it was there before I noticed it.

When you are in the "reply box" check the boxes across the top of page.
The 2nd in from the top RH side says it is a insert video button.

That all changes when you go back to edit a post and the link button position changes.It is now 2nd row down and 4 in from the right -looks like an old time film strip

Note! I can now claim total ignorance after this point as I have never posted a video.

Grahame

Hi Grahame,
I think that button doesn't let you attach a video clip from you computer i.e. one that I took with my phone. Thanks for your help.

Regards
Bruce

This is another banjo for my WW lathe so I can use tool rests with two tool posts for turning long objects.

The body is just a piece of 40 x 40 x 3 mm SHS.
The cam handle is 18 mm BMS.
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I think you should be able to work out how it goes together
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A long way from Anorak Bob quality, but hey it works!
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My first scraping project, the table of my HM-46 mill. Getting it ready for CNC. Although it's almost new the table was not flat.
I don't have a BIAX so this was hard yakka. Drenched in sweat now.

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The gearbox on my old 1985 Mariner outboard motor finally wore out completely.
Chasing all around the country looking for a replacement led me to find an identical but new one from a later model - which I managed to buy at a very good price. Phew....
However, the drive shaft was longer than the old one and had a different size spline to fit the powerhead. It also had differently sized bearing seats at the lower end, which meant I could not use the old and worn one in its place.
Trying to figure out a way to cut the old spline end of the old shaft and grafting it onto a shortened new shaft felt too risky in terms of security of joint and the risk of distortion and ending up with a bend in the shaft too great.
So I contemplated for a while and eventually showed the problem to my friend Peter.
He suggested that the only good way would be to cut a new spline - and if that failed, go back to Plan B of joining old and new shafts.
He happened to have a full set of Mod 2 gear cutters, and the rack cutter happened to be close in dimensions and geometry - just not quite enough.
With little to lose, we decided to give it a shot, using his rotary table and rack cutter. There were 10 teeth - or 10 grooves in the spline. So dividing using the rotary table was easy enough and all round numbers, and the 90:1 reduction of the rotary table would make it accurate to do.
So we first turned the shaft to the correct minor diameter outboard of the proposed spline and new spline OD for the location of the spline - measured from the old shaft.
Then on the rotary table we cut the 10 grooves. The lands looked too wide in comparison to the old spline. Looking under a portable digital microscope, we measured (on the screen) the width of the lands and bottom of the spline grooves and found them to be identical. So I turned the rotary table one degree further from the starting position and made another cut. That changed the geometry in the right direction. Another three cuts and measurements proved that 4 degrees off one side of each land made the grooves and lands even. Remeasuring everyting we made another 9 cuts all around and decided that all that was needed was a trial fit. So we cut the new shaft at the far end of the relief - just in case we had to chuck in in the rotary table again....
Fortunately, the spline in the damaged pinion out of the gearbox was in good condition, and the spline identical to the motor end. Trying it on the new spline with a slight lead in filed on the new spline and good deburring showed that we were very close, but the flank angles of the new spine were a whisker out.
It was obvious that the pinion gear was hardened and had a sharp edge on one side. So I turned it over and used it as a makeshift broach. I forced it on and off a couple of times and it did indeed raise a small slither of swarf all around. That allowed us to see exactly where the interference was and allowed me to provide a tiny bit of clearance with a needle file and clean up the burrs with a small flap wheel in a battery drill. Now the pinion slipped on just nicely.
So I cut the remaining relief end off the new shaft - no going back now!
Here is what the result looks like, old shaft at the bottom, new shaft at the top, cut off original larger spline and worn out pinion gear on the right:
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tube bender for someone with more time than money. I copied the idea from youtube


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Nice implementation.
Could you please show a bit more detail of how you clamp the tube to the arm and/or former?