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  1. #121
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    Aug 2015
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Thanks. I am certainly very happy it has come my way. I'll do my research on it and post what I find here. From an initial inspection it doesn't have a model number on it - but I'll look closer tonight. The few pics out there do seem to have different things on the end, so I am guessing those are the tools you mention. I might post over on PM also.

  2. #122
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    May 2011
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    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Nice find, it'll come in handy when you work out how to use it.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  3. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Nice find, it'll come in handy when you work out how to use it.
    Kryn
    He heh, you said it! ) )

    Actually Shadon HKW uses something similar in this vid at about the 5:40 mark. Not exactly the same but this guy can do something similar ... I think. )

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg6_gzMThqw

  4. #124
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    Aug 2015
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    Looks like it is a "Continuous Radius And Tangent Wheel Truing Attachment". Phew.

    ContinousRadiusAndTangentWheelTruingAttachment1.JPG

    PDF manual purchased online and on the way.

    Greg.

  5. #125
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    Aug 2015
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    For future reference, the PDF manual came from here:

    Brown & Sharpe Radius Wheel Truing Attachment Manual, Industrial Library

    At $12.50 a no-brainer purchase.

  6. #126
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
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    1,628

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    //metalworkforums.com/f266/t200...e-grinder-help

    You were asking me for photos of mine. I think there is another thread about it as well.

    found it
    //metalworkforums.com/f301/t199...ghlight=Dsel74
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  7. #127
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    Aug 2015
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    843

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    Thanks. A pretty substantial unit that, and a piece of Aussie history. Nice one.

  8. #128
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    Aug 2015
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    Default Wonders never cease ..

    Hi all,

    Update time. To get the clutch assembly and associated gubbins back in I needed to make some 1:48 taper pins with threaded tops. These are to secure some parts where there is no access to the 'small' end for disassembly. I have some 12L14 and some 4140 pre hard and sought some advice here about threading 4140:

    //metalworkforums.com/f65/t2003...-4140-pre-hard

    Amazingly, I actually have a 1/4" 24 tpi die. Not amazingly, these guys are a weird size. The OD is about actually 15/64" - too small for the 1/4" die.

    The taper attachment I have is a bear to use and the old '41 South Bend doesn't makes it any easier - with the taper engaged, moving the handwheel causes the carriage to lift a little .... . Darn hard to get anything consistent from it all, so it took an *age* to get some results. Got there in the end with 12L14, but I think they should be redone in 4140 - if I can get a good thread from it:

    IMAG1012.jpgIMAG1014.jpgIMAG1015.jpg


    A big shout out goes to forum member caskwarrior who took time out from his Hembrug lathe adventure to show me said lathe (nice) and his workshop and also to loan his collection of 1:48 taper reamers. Thanks Ralph. Appreciated mate. Your McMaster-carr bridgeport handle knobs will ship this week. )

    All this stuff meant that I could finally have a crack at getting the clutch in and 'feed stop' knob and driven motor pulley for the table drive. I thought I needed to make some large taper pins to secure the clutch to the front of the unit, but I looked into my shameful box of rusty unrestored little dead rust encrusted shameful bits and .. lo .... I had both pins! They were in crap shameful rust-encrusted condition but after a cleanup they still had the right 'taperness' to serve their function. Nice!

    IMAG1033.jpg

    All therefore ....

    IMAG1017.jpgIMAG1018.jpgIMAG1019.jpg

    and ...

    IMAG1020.jpgIMAG1021.jpgIMAG1022.jpgIMAG1030.jpg

    Things seems to move as they should. Some stiffness here and there which might mean some shafts need some more love. Also, a couple of bushings I made are a pretty close fit and might wear in a bit. But very happy. The forward/reverse flip action is solid with reassuring happy sounding engagement clunks.

    The oil bottles are because everything is getting lots of light oil to try to flush out crap. Seems no matter how much I clean some oil passage ways, they still give up 'dark matter'.

    The paint seems to have darkened a little since applying it so the match is not bad at all. As you can see, some parts of the original paint are not in very good nick, but a lot of it is okay. So it stays - warts and all.

    Oh, here are those two large taper pins in action helping (with the bolt) hold the clutch rigid:

    IMAG1032.jpg

    And while I was at it, all belt rollers are now done and were fitted, Plus, the rear counter balance etc also. Note the already-glued-up 'endless' belt as supplied by jhovel (thanks Joe!) is around the pulleys in (hopefully) the right way - all the bearings in the rollers also came from Joe. Thanks mate. Some oilers missing but soon on their way from the US (though, now with sealed bearings, the rollers don't actually need oil - but the main pulley still does):

    IMAG1028.jpg


    So, all pretty good so far. The reassembly is for test purposes only - no taper pins smacked in as yet.

    Time to start on the next bunch of stuff.

    "In coming episodes of 'Ineptitude In Action' we'll be watching an under-talented machinist attempt to grapple with making a keyed gear and a matching shaft with keyways <crowd laughs>, and repairing a broken bevel gear! <more laughter> And try holding back at his confused monkey face as he ponders a bunch of small parts and how they all relate to each other! <crowd erupts>"

    Greg.

    PS .. this little guy took up 'grinder' residence - your don't see too many geckos round these parts. I had nothing to do with the missing tail your honour:

    IMAG1029.jpg

  9. #129
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Cairns, Q
    Posts
    666

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    QUOTE: your don't see too many geckos round these parts. I had nothing to do with the missing tail your honour:

    Would you like some spares? I have an excess at the moment......

    The last one to come to an unseemly end recently had taken up residence inside the laser printer. When I tried to print a few pages the first one displayed most of the top half of the gecko from head to tail, the second one most of the bottom half, and subsequent pages sundry assorted remains. The printer did not die or even choke on the unaccustomed diet, but has never really been the same since.

    Frank

  10. #130
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    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by franco View Post
    Would you like some spares? I have an excess at the moment......
    I am a displaced Cairns boy now "south of the border". I grew up around lots of geckos. )

  11. #131
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    Aug 2015
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    Default

    Inching forwards the next small sub-assembly has been brought back to life. Well, a sub-assembly of a sub-assembly to be more precise.

    This time the 'bed front plate' and the 'table handwheel shaft' and clutch. Here is two sub-standard photos:

    IMAG1046.jpgIMAG1047.jpg

    The handwheel 'shaft' is actually two pieces that can be disengaged to separate the handwheel from the table movements when using the auto-feeds. A small pin 'plunger' keep the front shaft locked to where you want it.

    Both shafts are worn, but the rear one is within sensible margins and pretty good so it remains as-is. The front one (the one the handwheel attaches to) was quite oval so it needed to be brought back into round and a new bushing made to suit.

    Attachment 367049

    The pin got some cleanup but despite some corrosion divots it is in good order and after cleanup some oil sees it operating smoothly:

    Attachment 367050

    Thus, the sub-sub-assembly:

    IMAG1042.jpgIMAG1043.jpg

    Note I have not yet fixed the broken bevel gear tooth - that will be an adventure in itself, but for now, while doing a test re-assembly, there is actually enough tooth base left to engage with. <nice>

    You may have noticed that the bushing for the handwheel is not bronze <gasps of horror>. Actually, the shaft was made of some pretty hard stuff. The castle teeth (I don't know the term sorry) at the rear of the shaft, being an interrupted cut, kept knocking the edge of my HSS tool so the final result was filed and sanded to shape. I didn't have bronze rod large enough but given the hardness, and the fact that the handwheel turns only at hand speed, and that the other (original) bushing on is piece is also steel, I felt justified in making the bushing from 12L14. <amidst shouts out scorn and derision>

    And with it in place (apols for the 'dream sequence' photo .. but there is a lot of oil being used ...):

    IMAG1045.jpg

    Having this in place mean I could finally see how the 'start knob' (the knob on the right in the first photos of this post) is actually used to engage or disengage the auto-feed mechanisms. That also meant I needed to adjust some things to make it happen smoothly, but the good news is that it all seems to work. The paint looks out of place above but my rule is simple - 'if it is cast then paint it, if it is machined, do not'. The gears have come up nice haven't they.

    The next sub-sub-assembly of this sub-assembly is actually the 'rack pinion shaft'. Funnily, this is the thing I thought I'd start with because as it is bent and worn and basically completely w*ank3red. But, the universe presented an alternate sequence that seems to be the right one. I have learned stuff and despite being an utter (utter) and complete novice I now know more than when I started. Ain't that great.

    .. and sorting this one out means I have to cut a gear so I'll need it. Anyways, here are the basic parts:

    IMAG1051.jpg

    Those brown discs are compressed leather and actually survived the rain and elements. Amazing. They are part of some sort of 'friction feed' clutch.

    There is a pawl arrangement as well which has something to do with the auto-crossfeed, but to be honest, I actually have no solid idea of how this arrangement is meant to work. A you tube vid shows it but it still makes no sense to me!:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-SO8Xfo_sR4

    at around the 1:30 mark.

    when I get it together it'll make sense. )

    Some stuff ain't great, but can be still be used. Take this guy - the outer disc on the 'friction feed' assembly, looks crap .. but it is actually really very hard. My burr file whistles across it - it is still flat so should not damage the leather. Not pretty, but not being replaced.

    IMAG1052.jpgIMAG1053.jpg

    Certainly, one thing I have not got my head around is how the 'friction feed knurled knob' works at the end of the shaft. The parts diagram I have shows two different sorts and mine is a little like both, but neither. I guess one evolved into the other over the years. In Darwinian terms, think 'reptile' and 'mammal' and mine is a 'reptile-like mammal'. For example, clearly, in the end of this (broken off) shaft, there is an internal left-hand thread that is meant to take a bolt to secure a knob I'd say. Only one parts diagram has this. The trouble is, the parts I have resemble the 'no bolt' diagram.

    IMAG1054.jpg

    It ain't that important really. What is important is that there is a knob there to dis/engage the friction feed and it doesn't look rubbish. I'll think of something. And I've never knurled anything before, so that'll be cool.

    For now, in reference to another current thread on this forum, let's raise a glass to sh*t broken useless looking old pieces of cr*p discarded machine tools lying abandoned in the grass and mud that nobody wants.

    <slurp>

    All comments welcome.

    Greg.
    Last edited by StrayAlien; 15th Mar 2017 at 08:26 PM. Reason: some photos didn't appear ...

  12. #132
    Join Date
    Aug 2015
    Location
    Melbourne, Australia
    Posts
    843

    Default Eclipse 18x6 mag chuck 'basket case'

    An essential accessory for every basket case surface grinder is, of course, a basket case magnetic chuck.

    Though a minor project in itself I thought I put any dealings re the old mag chuck here in this thread.

    You may recall it was dead. I want to get it alive again so it can be used to hold some things for scraping when I get there. The lathe needs some work pretty darn soon ... ish. I've seen online that people use mag chucks to hold stuff while scraping, and I also saw machtool do same with good effect a few weeks back.

    I've taken some time to pull it down to see if I could see anything notably wrong. Seems people hold these things in mystery and awe so I was a little hesitant about getting it apart. Actually I was thinking I might just have a $130 punt and get it remagged and see if it 'just fixed it' ... but when I realised I could pull the handle shaft out of the body I figured something must be amiss inside, and given the screws holding the base on showed evidence of some surgery I thought I'd dive in.

    IMAG1059.jpg

    With the unit upside down I left the screws soak in pools of wd40 for a day before getting an impact 'thump-type' screwdriver on them. They were in very tight. With those out a copper drift and a large hammer made the base start to come off. It was pretty easy after that.

    IMAG1067.jpg

    When apart ... not a pretty sight folks:
    IMAG1068.jpgIMAG1070.jpgIMAG1072.jpgIMAG1073.jpgIMAG1074.jpgIMAG1075.jpgIMAG1077.jpgIMAG1079.jpg

    Like it was filled with poo. And also some dried poo. Lots of corrosion and pitting into the top and base plates.

    Clearly all was not well. I have a paper behind it so you can see the broken bolt:

    IMAG1085.jpg


    Erm ... I mean bolts - all three are broken:

    IMAG1087.jpg


    I dremmeled numbers on the magnets and separators (to note their sequence and alignment) and them slid them off one by one and moved them to the base plate.

    IMAG1091.jpgIMAG1096.jpg

    So, it is apart now. Some work to do on this old girl. Besides cleanup, three new bronze (brass?) rods and maybe a new lever shaft - it has seen happier days also:

    IMAG1058.jpg

    Oh, and the reason I could pull the handle shaft out? I reckon there is supposed to be a retaining pin in here, but there ain't:

    IMAG1078.jpg

    Take care,

    Greg.

  13. #133
    Join Date
    Dec 2007
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    Melbourne
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    Damn that chuck looks awful. Fingers crossed!
    …..Live a Quiet Life & Work with your Hands

  14. #134
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    Thanks for that Greg, always wondered what was inside the "mystery box". Now I know, and it couldn't be in better hands.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  15. #135
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    Melbourne, Australia
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    Thanks for the vote of confidence Kryn, but if you could see the many and varied ways I can screw up machining a simple part across multiple attempts you'd change your mind. ) There ought to be laws stopping people like me. I guess at least I'm helping to support the Australian steel industry though my many failed learning attempts. )

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