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  1. #586
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    Jan 2011
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    Far West Wimmera
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    See Richard. Now they are all coming out!

    Dean

  2. #587
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
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    near Rockhampton
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    Found out I have more internetz to use before the month is out then I expected.

    The wood turning was to make some plugs for a brass cylinder I wanted to turn the OD on.

    Plugs are top and bottom as in the video and I could bore the entire OD in one setting.

    Although it was a failure as the boring head was not rigid enough and I had chatter issues.

    Video -->> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teb2oV4i1W8
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  3. #588
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    Mar 2009
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    Melbourne
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    54
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    Adjusting the boring head out and reducing the overhang of the upper horizontal extension bar might reduce the chatter, do you have any of the extension bar reinforcing rings?
    Something about having the short boring bar mounted in the long vertical extention bar looks wrong, all that extra weight suspended so far from the anchor point makes me think of contributing to any vibration, of course the opposite might just be the case. It might be worth making up a longer boring bar from 1" or even 1.25" stock to mount directly in the upper horizontal extention. Machine enough length down to 22mm for the mount and thread it for a draw bolt to pull it firmly into the extention, the thicker bar might absorb some of the vibration.
    I can't be sure but is the tool ground positive? If so perhaps try a neutral or even negative grind.
    Cheers,
    Greg.

  4. #589
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    Jun 2011
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    Australia east coast
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    71
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    2,713

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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Found out I have more internetz to use before the month is out then I expected.

    The wood turning was to make some plugs for a brass cylinder I wanted to turn the OD on.

    Plugs are top and bottom as in the video and I could bore the entire OD in one setting.

    Although it was a failure as the boring head was not rigid enough and I had chatter issues.

    Video -->> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=teb2oV4i1W8
    Well, no surprises there considering the flimsy setup.

    I'm a bit surprised, though. I'm surprised that you did such a crap thing when you have a HBM with a boring/facing head. That setup is barely OK for people who don't have a choice, but you *do*.

    What *were* you thinking???? I did a similar OD boring job recently in the Kearns S type, on a cast iron marine diesel exhaust elbow. It was totally trouble (and chatter) free.....

    PDW

  5. #590
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    Aug 2008
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    near Rockhampton
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    The HBM has no angle plate and is worn that I would not trust it to do that good of a job on it. it is a good borer, but not that good from a wear perspective and does lack tooling.

    This was an experiment that might have worked in brass. Would never have tried it in steel. Unfortunately I do not even have small lumps of big pieces of steel around I can use to make plugs for the end to hold it.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  6. #591
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    Jun 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    The HBM has no angle plate and is worn that I would not trust it to do that good of a job on it. it is a good borer, but not that good from a wear perspective and does lack tooling.

    This was an experiment that might have worked in brass. Would never have tried it in steel. Unfortunately I do not even have small lumps of big pieces of steel around I can use to make plugs for the end to hold it.
    Haven't you any 12mm or thicker steel about the place? I machined a steel angle plate for the big HBM and 2 for the small HBM. Weld, machine on the HBM and then start turning them into swiss cheese....

    Got no tooling with the big HBM but a full cabinet came with the baby one. Not too bad except that *someone* I know got 2 cabinets of tooling, a big angle plate and a 400mm rotary table with *their* S type HBM. However, I still have possession of their angle plate.....

    I am planning on making a couple of the snout bar holders for the big Kearns. The things are so useful on the baby that I think they're essential for doing any sort of serious inside or outside boring work in the HBM. Sure, you can put a conventional boring head in the travelling spindle, but it's not rigid compared to a 60kg facing slide carrying a 2" or 3" diameter bar.

    On tooling I'm waiting for some MT5 reducing sleeves to arrive so I can drill big holes. I'm having to buy more MT5 tooling and it's a PITA. Hopefully Mick Moyles will have some useful stuff when I get to Sydney.

    PDW

  7. #592
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    Oct 2011
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    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    P1020692 (Medium).JPG P1020694 (Medium).JPG

    Nah - just weren't holding your tongue right...

    Michael

  8. #593
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post
    Haven't you any 12mm or thicker steel about the place? I machined a steel angle plate for the big HBM and 2 for the small HBM. Weld, machine on the HBM and then start turning them into swiss cheese....
    I have half an angle plate made. It is the knee of an old pallas milling machine, stripped and I only sandblasted it last week ready for the next stage.



    Quote Originally Posted by Michael G View Post

    Nah - just weren't holding your tongue right...

    Michael
    Probably. PDW is right in though it was a flimsy setup though. I do have the stiffeners for the bars as kwijjibo99 above asked, but only the long extension is tapped for their use, the 3 short identical length bars are not tapped.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  9. #594
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    Mar 2013
    Location
    Mt Pleasant SA
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    Hi RC, you might have gotten away with that setup at a different speed, not necessarily slower just off the resonant frequency..either way. I assume you were using ABSOLUTELY minimal nose radius on the tool, zero rake & wiped off any finger grease with isopropyl alcohol..off tool & job. Don't laugh till you've tried it.

  10. #595
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    near Rockhampton
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    Quote Originally Posted by PDW View Post

    I am planning on making a couple of the snout bar holders for the big Kearns. The things are so useful on the baby that I think they're essential for doing any sort of serious inside or outside boring work in the HBM. Sure, you can put a conventional boring head in the travelling spindle, but it's not rigid compared to a 60kg facing slide carrying a 2" or 3" diameter bar.

    I have put the boring/facing head back on mine to do a small boring job, but I am not really happy with the safety aspect. Having that huge exposed head running around at a reasonable RPM for boring out a small hole it scares me. Be OK for big stuff. I do have a plan though

    The ones with inbuilt facing heads and OA models like yours have a much much larger spindle frame and the boring head is not so much out there but more covered up a little bit so it is safer.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  11. #596
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    Today I learned loctite cures exceedingly fast when applied to brass.

    I have been rebuilding some brake slave cylinders on my truck, re-sleeving them with brass. I make it a very light press fit and loctite them in.
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  12. #597
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    Jul 2011
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    Melbourne Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by .RC. View Post
    Today I learned loctite cures exceedingly fast when applied to brass.
    That's because of the copper in Brass. That and iron are the only things that set it off. I could bore you with Anaerobics, but it's not lack of air. Those primers? They aren't solvent, they contain copper.

    I bought my missus a Loctite Ion, for mothers day no less. But I joke.

    That's why plumber's haven't taken up Loctite. It sets up too quick with brass.

    Regards Phil.

    (On edit) Even managed to find an AU reference. Please see Q8. Machinery Adhesives Frequently Asked Questions - Henkel

  13. #598
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    So copper must send it off quicker then steel. Issue I had with these cylinders was they are closed one end and have no nice flat area on the end to press against to put the sleeve in.

    They are done now though.

    20160605_075644.jpg
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

  14. #599
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    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    T

    That's why plumber's haven't taken up Loctite. It sets up too quick with brass.

    Regards Phil.

    (On edit) Even managed to find an AU reference. Please see Q8. Machinery Adhesives Frequently Asked Questions - Henkel

    Thank you for posting this. a good save from my point of view.
    It is only by chance that i sat down after lunch and read this. Next job was loctite a brass jag ( Fits on a rifle cleaning rod) to a cleaning Rod.

    Thanks heaps

  15. #600
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    Oct 2008
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    N.W.Tasmania
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    Grahame I think that you would be O.K. doing that, that is if I understand what you are wanting to do. In my experience loctite does not go off instantly with copper alloys, and your job if I have it correctly is a quick screw on with a small part, and not something which would take you any significant time to get done. .RC.s job was more fiddly because of the shape of the workpiece not making it easy to press into the housing before the loctite went off. You may even be able to slow the reaction by cooling the parts down in the freezer beforehand,but that is something I have not tried myself, just a hunch that it may help.
    Rob

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