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  1. #1621
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    229

    Default Elliott progress

    Hello Bob
    l would be very interested in a copy of the manual, thank you. From what l have read the s on the end of the 2g is for the floor standing model, otherwise the same drill. I have just posted some more info on my drill in the general metalwork section.
    My drill seems to be in pretty good nick. There is a little bit of wear on the drive dogs in the gear box however it should be fine for many years yet.
    Cheers
    Peter
    ps PM sent

  2. #1622
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

    Default

    I have been working on a table that I can then use to build my GT40 chassis on.
    probably got it all wrong, but shed time is shed time and its good for the sole.

    by using bolted joints I think i will be able to get the top face square flat and level.



    since the test photo above, i have pulled it all apart and have started paining sections and working on the legs.



    Regards Ryan

  3. #1623
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,944

    Default

    Nice work, but that floor is waaaaay to clean.
    What is the finish on it please?
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  4. #1624
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

    Default

    Dymark kit from bunnings. $180Au if i remember correctly. done in the death of winter the other year........Summer would have been a better idea.

    post from another forum at the time......




    Thursday night, reverse cycle heater on, patio heater on until it ran out of gas, shut it all off before I went to bed.
    Friday, before going to work, heater and patio heater on again with a full 9kg gas bottle, ran all day
    Saturday, don’t think it’s going to get any dryer, clear shed floor using the blower.





    Divide up decorative chips into 6 containers. My shed floor has some expansion “crack” joints cut into it that divide the floor into 6 parts. So I will aim to use 1 container per part of the floor.





    I mixed all 8 litres of the paint. Didn’t want to have to come back and mix a bit more if I ran out. Figured that if I got through all that, there was every chance I would need a new roller and brush anyway. Was also on a tight time frame, so just wanted it done. Mixed in a 20 litre food grade bucket as I had head of issues with the epoxy dissolving the colour out of buckets with the clear coat. I had no issues with this approach so don’t know if I was paranoid.





    Prepared, 1 x 270mm roller with foam cover, & 2 x 270mm rollers with 12mm nap rollers. The plan was to just screw on the roller pole and keep going. Paint brush and a smaller 90mm roller for a few corners.


    The foam roller lasted somewhere around to the ½ way point, maybe about 45minuets in. By this stage the two part epoxy was starting to get sticky and I could see the foam delaminating from the core of the roller cover, so I switched to the 12mm nap roller before it completely came adrift. The foam roller sleave did seem to work better and stayed on the roller better. Manage to finish the rest of the floor with the one 12mm nap roller. Had to push it on a few times by turning it on its end and whacking it against the floor, but nothing major.


    Had some thick rubber gloves on and a carbon filtered mask. Rubber glove was a pain when trying to put the flakes down.




    Overall I think it went down very well. Very happy with how it has turned out so far. The surface is very shinny and I would recommend putting the flakes down as it will help hide any imperfections in the concrete as well as make any marks less noticeable in the future.










    Hope that helps others.

  5. #1625
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

    Default

    it doesn't like hot metal being dropped on it, ie weld spatter.

    but its great from a dust point of view. my sinuses have been a lot better since i have done it and its made a good difference to my health in that respect.
    floor was very shiny when new, has dulled off a bit now but still reflects a useful amount of light.
    i am running 6, dual batten fluros and its enough for most things.

  6. #1626
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    229

    Default Welding/coffee table

    I found a 600mm face plate, don't have a lathe to suit, so thought l'd make a table. I like the idea of being able to stand up straight or sit down when l weld so made the height adjustable (screw). I also thought it would make a good coffee table for the back patio - wife not so keen though
    cheers
    Peter
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #1627
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Petip View Post
    I like the idea of being able to stand up straight or sit down when l weld so made the height adjustable (screw).
    I would kill for something like that. Buy Her Indoors a coffee table. That plate/table is ideal for any amount of helpful fixtures that could be rigidly attached to it to avoid any fiddly factor in set up of many small welding projects. Being able to sit whilst welding is a great advantage as one becomes older. However a leather apron to protect ones lap is well advised. Even a replaceable striking plate would help minimise arc marking on the table face.

    Grahame

  8. #1628
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,944

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Petip View Post
    I found a 600mm face plate, don't have a lathe to suit, so thought l'd make a table. I like the idea of being able to stand up straight or sit down when l weld so made the height adjustable (screw). I also thought it would make a good coffee table for the back patio - wife not so keen though
    cheers
    Peter
    Love the idea. Perfect item for any mancave.
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  9. #1629
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    N.W.Tasmania
    Posts
    1,407

    Default

    Peter I have to say that I agree with the other on this. A bloody good thing that your wife doesn't like it, - now it's available for your use 24/7, to be as clean or as dirty as you need. If you come across another big faceplate of around that size, and don't need it, I have a use in an old camel back drill. The work table has been chewed up by large numbers of butchers, and I'm looking for a suitable faceplate or a burnout piece of plate which could clean up at about that size. Your table looks great by the way, better get it back in the shed before she changes her mind!

  10. #1630
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    ammerswil
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Here is my project for the evening (2pm to midnght).
    I always been looking for a small anvil, but they were either too expensive, too far away or the wrong size - when they did become available. So I've continued bashing on a 6" length of railway line and various other lumps of steel...
    A few of days ago I came across a 11" piece of heavy rail in my favourite junkyard and decided now or never. I also saw a stub axle which looked like an anvil horn to me nearby.... and they followed me home.
    Today I made a few cuts to tidy the rail up on the badsaw, drilled some large holes through its web to give it some shape and ground away everything that didn't look like an anvil.
    Then I cut and turned the stub axle into an anvil horn and welded the pair together. Interesting experience, preparing and welding full tickness 1-3/4" diameter.... but it came out good. No slag inclusions, no visible faults. I also welded up the edges of the top of the rail, because there was significant wear and curvature. A lot of 'angle grinder fettling' and then onto the surface grinder. I got the geometry nearly right. The horn ended up a smidgeon high....
    Then drill 4 holes to bolt it down - if required, and a lick of paint to make it all shiney
    Last photo shows it sitting in the lounge room in front of the fire for the enamel to dry and harden overnight. Too cold in the shed.... and I like looking at it
    Attachment 358220 Attachment 358221 Attachment 358222 Attachment 358224 Attachment 358223
    how did the bandsawcutting go?

  11. #1631
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    No problem at all. I've mentioned before that I use a 4 teeth per inch bimetal blade for large or wide sections. Cuts like butter - well maybe very cold butter
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  12. #1632
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    Location
    ammerswil
    Posts
    2

    Default

    well, i once ruined a small carbide facemill on a piece of railroadtrack, but i guess that stuff can be anything really. or does anybody know of a standart for the metal?

  13. #1633
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    202

    Default

    I work in the rail industry and depending on what you picked up it could be anything.
    some of the later sections of rail are very specific in their steel composition and may even have the head hardened even further post rolling out of the mill.

    ill see if i can find something more
    these companies are some of the major players though

    Material Innovations - voestalpine VAE Railway Systems

    Welcome | Vossloh AG

  14. #1634
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    I finished a new project tonight: //metalworkforums.com/f303/t199...00#post1905600
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  15. #1635
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,440

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Petip View Post
    I found a 600mm face plate, don't have a lathe to suit, so thought l'd make a table. I like the idea of being able to stand up straight or sit down when l weld so made the height adjustable (screw). I also thought it would make a good coffee table for the back patio - wife not so keen though
    cheers
    Peter

    Hi Guys,
    I'm going to stop letting my wife see some of the pictures on here
    I've just had "Why can't you make one of those, it would look lovely in the garden"

    I must admit it does look great.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

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