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  1. #16
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    I managed to grind him, by putting it diagonal across the chuck.

    P1010458.JPG

    Will this do, or should I send it up to R.C?

    P1010459.JPG

    The larger one is just coming off the grinder now. Ground him in two set up's, using the pads on the back to offset it side to side on the mag chuck.

    Regards Phil.

  2. #17
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    That looks fantastic Phil, where there's a will there's a way, sneaky trick seating it diagonally on the chuck.

    Regards Bruce

  3. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    I managed to grind him, by putting it diagonal across the chuck.

    P1010458.JPG

    Will this do, or should I send it up to R.C?

    P1010459.JPG

    The larger one is just coming off the grinder now. Ground him in two set up's, using the pads on the back to offset it side to side on the mag chuck.

    Regards Phil.
    Bread and butter stuff for you no doubt Phil. Do you need to hand scrape that finish now so that it transfers better or do you leave it in the ground state?

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #19
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    Hi Simon.

    He still needs a little tickle. This is the larger one with the dove tail edge. I was going to tip the head of the mill over to rough machine it. That all looked too hard, so I just got angry at it with a power machine. I've gotten under the corrosion and have him contacting end to end.

    P1010461.JPG

    Regards Phil.

    P.S The photo above with the zero indicator is a stooge pic. A Tiffie. With it hanging over the end of the chuck like that, the table was reversing with the wheel still in contact. It still has a few lumps and bumps, Its probably with in half a thou. Wont take long to knock it into shape.

    I have to do the fruit and Veg shop down at the Greeks opposite Manny's. I'll pick up a 6 pack, and put an hour into it this afternoon.

  5. #20
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    Bruce.

    How close do you want them? The larger one was concave a couple of thou. I think that was wheel wear, and repositioning it on the chuck. It only touched on the first 1 inch on the ends a little while ago.

    It still has a little low spot in the middle, just a couple of tenths. I'll run a couple more roughing passes over it Monday. So it touch's in that hole.
    P1010462.JPG

    Still roughing it, for the sake of that 15% in the middle, 85% of the rest of it has to come down. Do you want me to finish it, or are you still looking for practice.
    P1010463.JPG

    Regards Phil.

    In other news. I've been looking for an excuse to try out a new tube of bearing blue. Pete F got a hold of some Diamant Tuschierpaste. Which he generously sent me a tube.

    I'm really impressed with it. It would be about the best commercial Blue / Blau I've ever tried.

    I have a tin of new English "Stuarts" Micrometer Blue out there. I might give that a whirl Monday to see how it compares.

  6. #21
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    Gday, Phil,
    I am more than happy to finish them to bring them in, doing the surface plate has been good to get my hand back in. Touching up the straight edges will be good practice working on narrower sections, before I start on my cross slide. I do have a manual Made in Taiwan Chevalier FSG 6 X 18 surface grinder tucked away in back of the Tardis that I will be able to work on now that I have this great collection of kit.
    You have really worked some magic as both of those straight edges were in need of more than just a touch up. I really appreciate your expertise and time that you have put in. The copper disc that I am using to hone my carbide is giving a fantastic mirror edge so I think it will be worth you giving it a go when I drop yours off.
    Does Machtool enterprises have a company Colour that they would like the straight edges painted in after I clean up the surface grime on the cast.

    A couple of pics of the surface plate, I have glare from lights so they are not the best. A couple of low spots from I think not roughing the high areas enough before I started chasing points. I will pick off the high shiny ones and break up the larger groups. Happy with my mix of grease and Prussian blue powder. Probably a little heavy on the transfer.


    Cheers Bruce
    Attached Images Attached Images

  7. #22
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    I agree Phil, I really like that blue. I think the Stuart's Micrometer Blue may be even better, but I haven't tried a true 1:1 comparison. Instead I've tried mixing the two together and I'm really happy with the result. I think the combination brew could be just about a perfect mix.

    For information for others, the contrast I use is just use a tube of fire engine red oil paint from the local art supply store. It's very cheap, goes a long way, and works exceptionally well. The only downside is that it feels gritty. I have no idea how abrasive that grit is, but decided to play it safe and no longer store it on my surface plate when using it. I form a pad with a rag and put some on that pad, rub it on the work until there's basically very little left on the work. It doesn't really look red when on the work, as there's just the smell of it left and to look at it's just that it is no longer super shiny. It makes a huge difference when trying to pick out the blue. I normally don't bother about it until the final stages, as it's just one more step to go through. It doesn't take long, but when using the Biax the cycles go very quickly, and an extra 30 seconds or a minute here or there start to add up.

  8. #23
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    Bruce.

    The flat of the big one, and the flat of the small one are Mickey mouse. I've left you some thing to do, They're 20 P.P.I, and hinging. They need two tenths of next to nothing to refine. I'd use them as is.

    I have this devious plan, that has only just occurred to me in the past 10 minutes. There were 2-3 blokes interested in a basic class, Greg - "StrayAlien" put a bit of leg work into establishing interest in another class. Link> //metalworkforums.com/f65/t1977...-class-calling

    2 or 3 blokes wont make another class happen. But I'm obliged to at least show them some thing.

    Little tickle up like yours will be perfect intro. I can do sharpening, radius and attack angle in less than an hour now days. I have lots of cast iron to take a whack on.

    The more I think about it its a no-brainer. We take your project and just share it around some..

    We'd be here 2 -4 -6 hours to finish those off. I'm proposing to make a day of of it. Saturday only. No Hamburgers or Brats. And I'm not paying for Dumplings. If there was a bottle of Chivas in there some where, I might even be able to involve the Doctor. He's worse than me.

    This side of Christmas is probably cactus. But 2nd, 3rd, 4th week of Jan?

    I'll only say this once. "Only scraping class in the world this year that didn't happen, where you get that". It weigh's heavily on me, that I could impart some thing so second nature, yet some blokes missed out.

    ---------------------

    I whacked that dovetail with a Biax. I had it contacting end to end, and general coverage about 90%

    Not happy with that, it had big wash outs on the ends, like some one had filed it, plus it had a big radius, like some one had filled it on the corner, so it would fit into a sharp Vee.

    I had him sitting on the grinder Saturday, 3 jacks, no magnet, just about had him dialled in. Then it occurred to me, I might be mad, but I'm not stupid. I bailed out of that and hammered him with a Biax.

    I figured out how to machine him. Back side of this bridge is just rough cast. You will be able to make that out in the Pics. The back face ( As Cast ) has an 1/8" bow in him. What to do?.

    I stuffed a 1" x 2" parallel under him Static. Adjustable tapered wedge, other end, and a Jack. Clocked it in three ways from Sunday, then cut him. Just to top it off I put an undercut on the top edge. Best cutter I had was a Suttons 1/8" . 4500 RPM, I dug an under cut.

    P1010465.JPGP1010464.JPGP1010466.JPGP1010467.JPGP1010470.JPGP1010468.JPGP1010471.JPGP1010472.JPGP1010469.JPG

    It blues up across 1/3 of the centre. My mill cuts convex, just the same as any other mill with it's table hanging out in the wind. "Cough" Bridgeport.

  9. #24
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    Ueee is offline Blacksmith, Cabinetmaker, Machinist, Messmaker
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    Nice one Phil.
    I take it sitting it flat and tilting the head forwards is not an option with your machine? I can't remember if your head nods or not. I would have been a doddle on the Vernier.

    Are those wedges bought or did you make them? They are neat looking little units.

    Cheers,
    Ew
    1915 17"x50" LeBlond heavy duty Lathe, 24" Queen city shaper, 1970's G Vernier FV.3.TO Universal Mill, 1958 Blohm HFS 6 surface grinder, 1942 Rivett 715 Lathe, 14"x40" Antrac Lathe, Startrite H225 Bandsaw, 1949 Hercus Camelback Drill press, 1947 Holbrook C10 Lathe.

  10. #25
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    My head nod's every which way, much the same as my mill. I mostly never upset it as I've never had it this good.. In 3 decades, since it was new. It's the best Tram I've every had it. It has tapered dowells, but they aren't exact. I'd like to tell you it Trams to better than 0.005mm/300, but you wouldn't believe me.

    I put it out of square to finish machine some of the bricks for the most recent scraping class. There's a dozen blokes that hate the Czech machine.

    I could have tipped the head over. But the back side of that straight edge was as - cast. It has eight of an inch draft in it. You have nothing to gauge off. I thought of drilling /spot-facing / tooling balls / flats / machining a register edge across the rough cast.

    Believe it or not. Moustachioed Phil Whispered to me. I get how he cant re-engineer things. Bruce's straight edge, last bloke to use that was Jobe. I've managed to re-work it, with out modifying the bare casting. And for that I'm thankfull

  11. #26
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    Nice one. Always great to see this stuff in action. )

    Re:

    Quote Originally Posted by Machtool View Post
    I have this devious plan, that has only just occurred to me in the past 10 minutes. There were 2-3 blokes interested in a basic class, Greg - "StrayAlien" put a bit of leg work into establishing interest in another class. Link> Melbourne scraping class - calling for interest

    2 or 3 blokes wont make another class happen. But I'm obliged to at least show them some thing.

    Little tickle up like yours will be perfect intro. I can do sharpening, radius and attack angle in less than an hour now days. I have lots of cast iron to take a whack on.

    The more I think about it its a no-brainer. We take your project and just share it around some..

    We'd be here 2 -4 -6 hours to finish those off. I'm proposing to make a day of of it. Saturday only. No Hamburgers or Brats. And I'm not paying for Dumplings. If there was a bottle of Chivas in there some where, I might even be able to involve the Doctor. He's worse than me.

    This side of Christmas is probably cactus. But 2nd, 3rd, 4th week of Jan?
    I do have a list of names / emails from interested people's for a scraping course. I don't think it would be hard to get numbers for a watch-and-learn session for the collective price of a Chivas or two. )

    Sounds great.

  12. #27
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    Phil,
    I am glad that I have been able to assist you in getting a bit more machining and scraping done, this time of year I bet you had nothing better to do.
    You really have worked some magic on them transforming from heavy paper weights to what they should and can now be used for.

    If you get a few takers for, lets say an insight to the world of scraping, your plan sounds a good one. I will be away for most of Jan so lets see what transpires, the straight edges can sit with you if you want till you here something. I have the 3' one to scrape in if I can sneak in some time. 17th birthday out of the way last weekend, 21st in 2 weeks, garden duty etc to get things in order..

    I have the other 2 blocks of cast that I will drop off to you that you could use for the insight to scraping.
    Or for that Spindle Grind R Us company that you can retire on.

    Regards
    Bruce

  13. #28
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    Made a start on the 3', for now only cross scraping to take an initial print.

    20151202_192914.jpg


    20151202_192922.jpg20151202_190116.jpg20151202_190127.jpg

    Regards
    Bruce

  14. #29
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    Did a print to see how things were looking, I have gone fairly heavy initially to avoid getting into chasing points to early.

    20151203_203233.jpg20151203_203228.jpg20151203_203221.jpg20151203_203218.jpg20151203_203308.jpg

    It can be seen that the 2 areas that rest on what I think are pieces of felt are low and must have some corrosion. When I cross scraped I could feel the difference in how the surface reacted to the scraper, the 2 areas were also slightly discolored so I was expecting the areas to print differently.
    It is food for thought down the track on how I will store the straight edges. I did see where someone had made a case for his straight edges and they actually hung against a side of the case rather than sat on the face on the edges.

    Regards
    Bruce

  15. #30
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    Keep ruffing...
    Gold, the colour of choice for the discerning person.

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