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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
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    Nth Qld
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    Default

    Hi Gavin, many thanks for taking the time to do this excellent response. I have certainly learnt a lot from this thread, and will know what to do next time.

    I will now let it cure, as you indicate, and spray the final coat next weekend.

    regards,
    Jill

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Charlestown NSW
    Age
    65
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    1,669

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    Hey Jill
    Obviously you take pride on your work which is great to see. You will find with the hammer finish that it is very very forgiving of the person applying it. Where I work its nicknamed "Fitters friend" because it can make the dodgiest fabrication job look good.
    With the amount of care you have put into this job I think you will be very pleased with the results.

    don't forget to post some pics when finished.

    regards
    bollie7

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    kiama
    Posts
    53

    Default

    As mentioned in previous threads just wipe over the metal /blue primer with a solvent to make sure that the surtface is clean.

    Hammerfinish is just enamel with silicone added, the silicone not only helps in the protection of the object (its great at repelling moisture but it tends to repel paint. if present one of the reasons its in some polishes)

    As someone mentioned it is a big problem on cars if silicone is on it. If you spray over a surface when it is on there the new paint beads up and you get the Fish Eye or hammer effect ( hammer because it looks like it has been tapped with a ball pein hammer)

    Hammer finish has been around for many years it is usually applied to steel direct as a quick and tough finish on such things as tool boxes or machinery, the nature of the finish makes it ideal if the object is possibly a bit rough in its manufacture Box trailer makes love it. ( it makes things like spot welds disappear or at least look a lot better.) Being enamel it sticks very well, there is no need to sand it back just apply it.

    One point mentioned is unnecessary its that of using a light coat first, there is no advantage in doing this.( spray painting myth) Put on wet it will be at its best to stick, if its put on light it may land as a lot dryer material having been dried by the air from the gun. this will make it less able to adhere properly.

    You can also vary the pattern of the surface, put it on in a heavy coat and you will get large fish eye craters/hammer marks put it on thinner and the pattern will be finer. In other word keep the method you spray the same so that you get a more consistant all over finisn especially if you are doing large surface areas.

    Put on at least two coats no need to go more than 3 you only need to wait about 10 -20 minutes between coats. Most brands are made to dry fast as that is one of their advantages in industry. No one would be intending to go back later to redo the object it would be paint it and get it out to be sold.

    As the silicone is a problem don't spray it if you are close to things which you intend to paint with other non silicon products. Take it outside, paint somewhere where the overspray can't drift onto those things or cover everything up. Anything you paint should always be wiped over with a product like that mentioned Prepsol / wax and grease remover anyway but especially if you have hammerfinish around. Lastly spray out the gun with lots of solvent. ( do it a couple of times at least), and wash the gun. . Destroy any rags after use don't reuse them for anything else.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    Nth Qld
    Posts
    68

    Default MDSD for Super Etch

    I found the data sheet for the super etch Wattyl Spray Mate product I used here. Being an etching product, my question is what would be the effect, if any, of using this over
    a) the blue primer on the steel as delivered
    b) existing ColdGal by another supplier

    regards,
    Jill

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
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    1,373

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    Quote Originally Posted by durwood View Post
    One point mentioned is unnecessary its that of using a light coat first, there is no advantage in doing this.( spray painting myth)
    Not wishing to start an argument but the instructions for the hammer-tone I use (Solver) specifically mentions running a light mist coat then a wet coat, I've found that this provides less slump or sag when coating vertical surfaces than just running a wet coat straight up.

    Others may have different experiences but it works for me.

    Rgds - Gavin

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    kiama
    Posts
    53

    Default

    Jill, no problem using it over the blue primer or cold gal but really a waste of material and time. If you use it it will add to the protection of the object though.

    Gavin, if you put on a light coat obviously there is less material for the second to join to it and then sag. but as the second coat put on wet shouldn't sag anyway ( unless you overdo it) putting one coat on properly gives you a flat surface for the second one improving the end result just let it set up till it no longer is wet but tacky

    A mist coat makes a smooth surface rougher and the end result is a worse finish. If you use the correct spray gun adjusted properly you won't get sags or runs. The mist coat system would help anyone who is a poor sprayer or has the wrong set up on the gun they are using.

    The paint is meant to have two coats for proper performance, if you only use a mist and one you run the risk of missing areas or putting on too little in places. You need to put on a second for the correct amount which you will be spraying on a smooth tacky coat.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Adelaide
    Age
    68
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    Default

    Each to their own, I've sprayed that way for many years and it works for me.

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