Thanks Thanks:  0
Likes Likes:  0
Needs Pictures Needs Pictures:  0
Picture(s) thanks Picture(s) thanks:  0
Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    riverlands
    Posts
    1

    Default Leaking metal rain tank

    I have a few tank problems. One is easy, I just need to replace a tap.

    The one that is being a headache, has what appear to be multiple small leaks across the area where there is a diamond shaped piece of metal that the tap in the water tank comes out of at the bottom of the tank (a common enough area for leaks to appear). .

    This tank HAS been repaired before. However when the last owner inherited the house it from his dad, he didn't really live there full time (just as a weekender) so when he had some tanks die, he did not repair them. As long as he had at least one 18,000+ litre tank (and the very slightly saline bore) he didn't really care.

    We (on the other hand) want our water back.

    So, I went ahead and got rid of the old sealant, leaving the tank disconnected from the others. I had already used a small amount of bore water to see where the leaks were so I was well prepared. I also took a very mild brass metal brush and went over the surface a little bit, just to be certain that ALL the old sealant was gone. Then I went to the hardware store (out here in "rain water only" land) and told them the condition of the tank and asked which sealant to use. They then sold me a clear silicone sealant: flexi-seal pro-seal, industrial grade, clear

    I got home and cleaned the area well with meth-spirits to be sure there were no oils or other residue there. Then I let the February heat take off all the spirits for a whole day. The next day, mid-morning when the tank was dry and warm, I went out and VERY cautiously and slowly started to apply the sealant from the caulking gun, smoothing firmly it into every last variation of the surface by using a disposable paint brush for maximum penetration into every little surface variation. I wanted to be very sure that what I put onto the tank would stay there and match the metal perfectly.

    After the first layer of sealant was there and as perfect as possible, I waited about 6 hours and added more. The next day I added more again in the late afternoon. After all my layers of sealant were good enough (in my estimation) I had a very nice looking even seal, and I THEN waited a week for the whole patch job to dry safely in the heat for several days.

    A week later I chanced a test, by putting in a meter and a half of bore water (the tank is 3 meters across) . NOT ONE DROP LEAKED!!!. This seemed great, so I added a bit more water to see how it would deal with more pressure, and still not a leak. I left the water there for SEVERAL weeks (it nerver lost a drop) before I drained out the bore water and hooked that tank into the rest of the water tank system and transfered in soime rain water.

    NOT A LEAK... UNTIL - Our first rain on the 23rd of April

    Then yesterday we finally got our very first rain. I chose to have a look before it got too dark outside (if there had ben a problem), and I saw a problem.



    Water had started to well up and forward along the tap pipe that comes out of the tank. I felt arounjd and it was obvious there was pressures INSIDE of the sealant. I have no real choice with night falling, and I had just suffered a VERY BAD gall-bladder attack so BIG or heavy work was out.

    I grabbed the sealant and squeezed and it stopped leaking.

    So..as a temporary measure I have taken a rope and wrapped the pipe for the rain-water tank tap, as if it were a very tight spool of plastic rope. It is not leaking anymore, but I KNOW this is not a real solution. I need to find out what kind of sealant to REALLY USE, and how to do it, when I fix this thing FOR REAL.

    I would love serious input from the experienced. I know that I have GOT to get this project/repair on the road before it is wet out all the time, or there will be a lot of limits on what kind of repairs can be done.

    CHEERS

    By the way, I am disabled, so there are some limits on what I can do (lifting and such) these days, but I am decent with my tools, so I am not afraid to try something new.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    you could try fibreglass, failing that all the galvanised steel tanks around here that are still in use have been plastered with concrete on the inside...

    I suggest saving up for either a concrete or plastic replacement..

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2002
    Location
    Margate Tasmania
    Posts
    41

    Default

    Prior to installation I had a galvanised tank get flipped over by the wind on the front lawn, but I did not see any obvious damage. When I installed it, I found it was leaking around the floor/wall joint, so I drained it and when dry, sealed it internally with a paint on bitumous product(can not remember it's name).

    It was not much fun getting down the strainer hole as tank was 2250 gallons and around 7 foot deep. In the end I passed a 4x2 of a suitable length down the strainer hole putting one end on the floor and the other end part way up the corrigated wall on the opposite side under the strainer hole.

    The tank was still leak free 15 years later when I sold. The critical thing with any leak repair method is to use it on the inside so that any water pressure forces it into the crack, not away.
    Kev

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Adelaide - West
    Age
    43
    Posts
    20

    Default

    I can not remember the name of the product, only that it was sika flex, and I bought it from a boat store.

    We were on holiday at yorke penn and our tinny got hole in it (possibly because we crashed it into a rocky reef), this stuff was like silicone, we applied to the inside and outside of the boat and it is still working nearly a year later.

    I would assume that the forces at work are the same but reversed (you want water in, I want water out).

    Maybe try a boat shop???
    If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Adelaide - West
    Age
    43
    Posts
    20

    Default

    Or is the metal in good enough condition that you can cut the outlet out, and install a bigger outlet using a tank adaptor completely over the leaking section???

    Ie cut an 80mm hole with a hole saw and install an 80mm tank adaptor, if the hole covers the leaks then your home and hosed
    If you dont play it, it's not an instrument!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by KevM View Post
    paint on bitumous product(can not remember it's name).
    Probably, Duraseal or Hydroseal or Ormonoid (sp??) Bitumen paint

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Sydney, Northern Beaches
    Posts
    0

    Default

    A bituminous paint would be my first guess. Just make sure the instructions say it is suitable for "potable" water. You don't want to poison yerself.
    prozac

    ____________________________________________

    Woodworkforums, cheaper than therapy...........

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Tasmania
    Age
    69
    Posts
    10

    Default

    Gooday
    living in southern Tasmania with only tank water I can fully understand your concerns I have used 2 products at different times both with success the first is a product for sealing ponds I can not remember the name but it is a bitumen type subbstance and it worked for years the second is a product called neadit ( i bleive it is a sellys product ) and is generaly used for larger holes it to worked for some time before the tank was replaced last year.there is another method I have been told about but have not used because my tank was to big 27500 litres ( about 5000 gallons ) and that is cement powder, how I was told to do it is put about 1/2 a metre of water in the tank stir it vigeruosly and the throw in about 1/2 a bucket of dry cement powder. apparenty how it works is it leaks out the holes and hardens on contact with the air. as I said have never used this method but alot of the older residents down here use it often.

    Best Off Luck
    Terry

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    364

    Default Leaking Tank Repair

    Hi Ken,

    We, like you, are dependant on the heavens for our aquapura. So I know your concerns and frustrations.

    Firstly, I may be old fashioned but I have never been a great fan of sealers "painted" on the outside of something. I started my apprenticeship in the early 70s when the only revolutionary sealants were mastic and Ormanoid brushable bitumin. I was taught never to rely on just the sealer to do the job, but to make a physical seal using metal or what ever and just use the sealer as an addition and sort of "insurance".To use any sealer I would put a patch of galvanised metal over it with sealer underneath and secure the patch with pop rivets or tek screws

    Second..What is the condition of the tank generally, is it sound or is the leak an indication that the tank's use-by date is close?
    The offending pipe coming out, does the weight of the fuller tank press down on the pipe and bend it ever so slightly to open up the affected area and make it leak/weap? You may have to rearrange the pipework to eliminate that senario

    Third...as I said,I am old fashioned so I would have tried to solder the offending area. BUT.... to do this you would have to have NO water behind the solder area as the water would take the heat away and you would be wasting your time trying.

    Forth...DON'T start any repair late on a Saturday afternoon or a Sunday morning when you won't have access to a descent plumbing shop to supply you with that broken /rusted/extra fitting or pipe (that's real experience talking) The number of times...........

    I hope this may have been benificial kind regards Rod
    PS living out of town IS worth these inconveniences!!!!

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •