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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default Drilling holes in steel

    Hi all,
    In fitting a balustrade to a new house I need to drill approx 350 off 5mm holes in a 10mm thick structural steel beam.

    I fear this may take a long time and consume many drill bits, not to mention my sanity. What is the best way to do it? What are the best drill bits to use? What is the best lubricant? Should I buy an engineers drill like this one? http://www.tradetools.com.au/Catalog...ctCode=TTD800D
    Any advice on how to get this done quickly and easily would be much appreciated.

    I am also undecided if I will then tap a thread into these holes to secure fittings, or use a nut and washer on the back. Any tips/recommendations about this aspect too?

    Cheers,
    Henry.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Bondoola
    Age
    81
    Posts
    182

    Default

    Hi Henry
    To fully answer your question, I need more info. Are the holes to be drilled, horizontal or vertical? Will the balustrade be held on with 5mm bolts? If this is correct, you will need at least 10mm bolts or better yet, 12mm. I have a 13mm Bosch variable speed drill that I bought from Bunnings and it works a treat on steel using 13mm drills. You need at least 2000rpm to run a 5mm drill in steel. Use any of the drill lubricants that are available off the shelf. I recommend the use of Tin coated Cobalt HSS for the drills. These are the best type to use. We need more info on what you are actually doing to further help you.

    Kody

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    near Rockhampton
    Posts
    6,216

    Default

    I would be hiring a mag base drill...

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks for the replies.

    The 5mm holes are to fasten pulleys for a continuous wire balustrade. The balustrade posts are much more substantial!

    The holes are to be drilled vertically from above, ie drilled downwards. Access is good and a magnetic based drill could work however I haven't seen one for such small bits, though they probablyexist somewhere.Are broach drills the same?

    In my experience using drill bits in a high speed drill they get hot and burn out fairly quickly, hence why i thought the engineers drill could be a good option.

    Hope this helps clarify.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Like RC said,
    Use or hire a mag drill and get a std chuck to fit.
    We use one for smaller repetitious holes.
    Regards,
    Peter

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Age
    65
    Posts
    316

    Default

    Couldn't you get them punched out at a press shop?

    MH

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Metal Head View Post
    Couldn't you get them punched out at a press shop?

    MH
    I'd like to, but the I-beam is already attached to the house!

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2008
    Location
    North Brisbane. Qld. Australia
    Age
    70
    Posts
    1,511

    Default

    Hire a small magnetic base drill. I'm fairly sure you could get one that will take a morse taper (probably MT2) drill chuck.

    Nev

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks for the tips guys. Part of my problem is that I am in a rural area and the nearest decent hire shop is a 5 hour round trip.

    So I am more interested in purchasing some cost effective tools to get the job done. At least i won't have lost 2 days of travel and I'll have additional tools to keep or sell at the end.

    Has anyone used one of these? http://www.drillmate.com.au/drillmate.html

    If I can't get a magnetic drill and I use a hand held drill (with or without a drillmate) should I be using low revs with high torque or high speed drilling? ie an engineers drill or a standard Bosch/Makita high speed jobbie?

    Cheers.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
    Posts
    6,446

    Default

    Hi Henry,
    I have not used the Drill mate but have had a opportunity to examine one in a local shop. it looks quite robust but lightweight. I would team it with a broach type cutter also advertised on the same site as the drill mate.

    The effort in using the broach cutter will very much less than battling with a drill bit for 350 holes.

    Definitely use a hole diameter of at least the thickness of the steel and at least a grade 5 bolt.

    I would use a nut a washers as drill and tap will quadruple your time at the very least.This will not be fun if you are drilling and tapping into the vertical plane.

    What about welding ? If it is positional welding your are concerned about, lets just say there are are few blokes who thought they could not learn vertical welding here in this forum,who now are able to manage it.

    Its food for thought any way?

    Grahame

  11. #11
    hewn Guest

    Default

    I would be looking at threaded studs driven in with a ramset gun or hilti. Should have it done in a long weekend or a normal weekend if you're hands can stand up to the job.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Thanks for all the advice guys. For several reasons that I won't bore you with I will drill these by hand.

    SOOOO, should I use a normal variable speed drill and use it at low-medium speeds, or buy a cheap engineers drill which turns at 600rpm and has very high torque???

    Thanks,
    Henry.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    With so many holes to drill have you decided yet if you are going to go nut and bolt or just tapped.
    When you drill these are you just going to centre pop and drill or will you be using a small pilot drill as well.
    Do you have access to air if so and you have a pneumatic drill I would be using that.
    Think for the amount of holes you have to drill the low speed option might take to long.
    A normal variable speed drill should be fine.
    For the drill bits I would just be using good quality HSS,you can get Jobber drill packs of 10.
    Three to five good drills should be fine for what you need to do but would probably requirer sharpening if you know how.
    If you are going to use a pilot drill would try for a 3/4 mm.
    For brands would go for Sutton/P&N

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    NSW
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    With so many holes to drill have you decided yet if you are going to go nut and bolt or just tapped.
    When you drill these are you just going to centre pop and drill or will you be using a small pilot drill as well.
    Do you have access to air if so and you have a pneumatic drill I would be using that.
    Think for the amount of holes you have to drill the low speed option might take to long.
    A normal variable speed drill should be fine.
    For the drill bits I would just be using good quality HSS,you can get Jobber drill packs of 10.
    Three to five good drills should be fine for what you need to do but would probably requirer sharpening if you know how.
    If you are going to use a pilot drill would try for a 3/4 mm.
    For brands would go for Sutton/P&N
    Thanks Pipeclay.
    I will use a nut and bolt, tapping a thread would look nice but take far too long.
    I may drill a pilot hole first if it speeds up the process considerably - I'll try it and see.

    Wouldn't an air driven drill spin way too fast for steel drilling?

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    It may possably but when ever I have had to drill a large amount of holes I preferr to use air the 3/8" drills have good talk and if the drill does jam they dont try and screw your wrist off.
    Also if the spacing of your holes is not to great you maybe able to make up a type of lever to apply load to your drill and take some of the effort of your upper body.(Just something simple like a piece of rope and timber,make the rope into a loop a bit shorter than the length of your drill and bit,put the bit of wood through the loop and rest the other bit on top of your drill,you may have to make a reccess in the wood to suit your drill,as you are drilling just apply a little pressure to the would,the longer the wood the more leverage) a poor mans drill press.
    For coolant for your drill oil will work although a bit smokey,if you have to go to town to get any of the gear you require go to an engineering workshop or somewhere they may do machineing and see if you can get a 600mil bottle of solubile cutting off them might cost a couple of beers or dollars.
    Then get another bottle punch a small hole with a nail through it from inside out (just the tip enough to let oil out when you squeeze it) put about 20/30 mm of the oil in this bottle and then fill with water to about 1/2 way up the neck put lid on and shake you now have a portable coolant bottle.
    You could drill these holes without coolant but the drill may last longer if you use it.

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