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Thread: Trailer Repair Project
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4th Oct 2007, 07:29 PM #1New Member
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- May 2006
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- logan city,queensland
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Trailer Repair Project
I have acquired a factory made metal trailer in good nick apart from the bottom front edge being rusted out and needs a new floor. Me and metalwork have never been friends and my forte is definetly with wood. I would like to know if
1. If its a viable thing to repair it. And can you buy ready made front panels.
and
2. Is there someone locally who could help me out with welding and cutting .
It is a good trailer apart from these 2 items.
Thanks
Neil.
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4th Oct 2007, 08:04 PM #2
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4th Oct 2007, 09:36 PM #3
G'day Neil, I have just recently done up a trailer which seemed to have exactly the same problems that yours has.
What I did was put a bit of 3mm gal over the bottom of the front panel(just where it had rusted out) and put a new floor in it using 1200x1800x2mm hot rolled sheet. I put the new floor straight in over the top of the old one. I also rewired new lights to get it back to roadworthy status but thats a different issue.
I did all of this in a day only using a 5" grinder and me 170A mig with flux core wire. The company i did it for didn't really want to spend money on it - or paint it, but really wanted it to be roadworthy It was done for a price so what i did was coat the new floor in rust converter. This will last for a while but would need to be coated again in the future.
The new floor was $85 from metaland at brendale and the gal was an offcut from another job.
I can help out if needed and im only over at geebung.
Dean
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4th Oct 2007, 11:37 PM #4New Member
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- May 2006
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- logan city,queensland
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Hi Dean
Im in Logan City and go over to Nundah most Mondays. I will be away for 5 weeks from the end of this month and when I get back I can bring it over and let you have a look at it and see what can be done if thats ok with you.
Like Ive said, me and metal have been bitter life-long foes . The last time we clashed, I was patching a hole in the floor of my trusty Kingswood. (this was years ago ) I came off 2nd best ending up in the hospital emergency section with severe eye blistering from mig welding late that night. I had used a proper helmet but I couldnt see what I was doing, so I got out my darkest sunnies, I could see a lot better then, but the rest is history.
Neil.
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4th Oct 2007, 11:39 PM #5New Member
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- May 2006
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- logan city,queensland
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I will take some photos of the trailer over the weekend and you can see where it needs the work.
Neil.
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4th Oct 2007, 11:57 PM #6
Anything & Everything on a trailer is repairable. All parts can be bought separately for a trailer whether it's a floor, tailgate, sides, guards, chassis rail... even drawbar. The most costly part of rebuilding a trailer is time. If it's your own time (or a good mates), then it can take as long as you like. If you're paying for someone else's time, then you can very quickly outweigh the cost of a brand new trailer.
Supply & fit new floor to 6 x 4 trailer: $250.00
Sandblast & re-paint trailer: $200.00
Brand new "Cheapy" trailer: $500.00
If you were to do the jobs yourself: approx.$150.00
Satisfaction of a job well done: $Priceless!Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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5th Oct 2007, 12:16 AM #7New Member
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- May 2006
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- logan city,queensland
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My pension income would not stretccccccccccccccccccch that far if I put it in to the Pro's to fix it up. I know they have to cover their expenses but it can get out of hand. Even taking the car to a Mechanics workshop means getting cleaned out.
Neil.
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5th Oct 2007, 12:50 AM #8
I know what you mean. That's why I now do for a hobby (spare play-money) what I used to do for a boss. I love being able to bring back to life a tired, if not dead, old trailer. I once restored an old timber trailer that was built in the 50's. I found an old screw-down coupling with Imperial weight ratings to put back on it, and even an old Bakelite 240Volt three-pin plug. Back then they only required one Stop/Tail light at the rear. The hardest part about that rebuild was sourcing a new needle-roller wheel bearing. But I found one.
Pity you're not in Melbourne, I can even do car stuff as well.Too many projects, so little time, even less money!Are you a registered member? Why not? click here to register. It's free and only takes 37 seconds! Doing work around the home? Wander over to our sister site, Renovate Forum, for all your renovation queries.
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5th Oct 2007, 05:52 PM #9
Yeah that sounds fine Neil, we'll work out the particulars closer to the date - just send us a pm. Photos would be good - is the trailer 6x4?
As for your mig story, you could have used oxy goggles over the top of sunnies It works when you leave your helmet at work!
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5th Oct 2007, 09:17 PM #10Intermediate Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2007
- Location
- Papua Indonesia
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- 32
Trailer material
Neil,
Just a thought but you could check the Recycle Centre on Browns Plains Rd for materials. I scored the Gal sheets for my trailer repairs from there and it cost me $30 for the 2 sheets for the bottom. Sometimes you can be lucky there.
Blackout
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6th Oct 2007, 12:12 AM #11New Member
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- May 2006
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- logan city,queensland
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I will take a walk on the wild side down at the tip over the weekend. I haven't been there for a while due to someone who wanted to charge exorbitant prices for their sheets of mdf and melamine. I could buy them for less at Bunnies.
Neil.
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6th Oct 2007, 12:15 AM #12New Member
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- May 2006
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- logan city,queensland
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Snap-on, it is a 6 x 4 and I will go out the back tomorrow and take a few photos and I will PM you and thanks for the offer of help. I will take you up on that when the time is near.
Neil.
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6th Oct 2007, 07:55 AM #13Intermediate Member
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- Jan 2007
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- Papua Indonesia
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- 32
Walk on the wild side
Neil,
I know what you mean. I know the money finally goes to charities but sometimes they attempt highway robbery. Some of the people have know idea what the real price actually is so you may have to inform them. They seemed to work on 25% of new price if the materials were knew but sometimes it's 125%. I tend to know the value of items before I ask for a price or get the price and go and check elsewhere before bothering to return.
Blackout
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6th Oct 2007, 08:42 AM #14New Member
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- logan city,queensland
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Yes, There was one bloke in particular who looked after the wood and house parts section and I did querie him a few times and his answer was that if you dont like it, leave it. So that is what I did. Everyone loses out then, but you have to be realistic, I am on a pension but I would gladly buy something that the proceeds end up going to local charities.
There was a time earlier when the prices were really good. On a Thursday when they opened the gates, you would get crushed in the rush to get in. It was even on TV once. Then some sunday market people started getting the stuff and then selling it down at the sunday markets and the tip people then upped the price on everything. So what where the stuff ends up, they are still making proceeds to give to their charities and everyone is happy. Not so, these days, the price you pay depends on who serves you at the checkout now. Thats why I lost interest going there but I will go down there tomorrow and have a look. Im hoping for a surprise.
Neil.
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6th Oct 2007, 03:55 PM #15Old Chippy
- Join Date
- Mar 2007
- Location
- Canberra
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- 72
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- 70
I made my own trailer many years ago (I can use stick, oxy MIG etc well) and when the second metal floor rusted through I decided to try ply.
I used 19mm laminated form board used in concrete construction (I think you can still get 16mm which is probably strong enough) and after cleaning up the steel angles and using a metal primer I drilled holes so that I could screw the sheet from underneath. I used silicon on the steel and sat the sheet on (it was a 2400x1200 which I cut to 1800x1200 - neat fit. I then used acrylic gap filler all around the edges between the steel sides and the sheet.
That lasted longer than my earlier steel floors and also gave me the flexibility to screw or nail in temporary restraining blocks for various items I was carrying and I installed 4 of the chromed steel flush-fitting tie down loops so that I could tie odd shaped items within the tray.
Exterior timber ply is very forgiving too - so throwing rocks, bricks or other heavy rough objects in from a height sometimes scuffed, but never broke or shattered the floor - which also remained flat and level for many years - it's been in 14 years now and still fine. I painted it with paving paint about 5 years ago.
Because the fixings are underneath the floor has no screws nails or other bits to catch a shovel. The first steel floor I used was just 2mm mild steel (too thin and bent and dented), the second 3mm knurled steel tread-plate lasted longer, but the knurls were a nuisance and this was a slippery floor and still rusted out. The timber floor is about the same weight as the 3mm tread-plate and was cheaper.
So for a timber worker you might want to look at that option.
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