Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast
Results 16 to 30 of 148
  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2002
    Location
    Minbun, FNQ, Australia
    Age
    66
    Posts
    2,012

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Wood Butcher View Post
    ... make a project booklet that I could use with yr12 engineering tech students? Due credit of course .....
    Top idea.

    The Simso Pan Brake..... will it be as big as the Hills Clothes Hoist?
    Cliff.
    ...if all you have is a hammer, everything looks like a nail...

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Belgrave, Victoria
    Age
    69
    Posts
    25

    Default

    G'Day Steve,
    This is an excellent project as everyone has said, and I for one am going to build it. My question is... Do you reckon that using your basic design it could be streched to 900mm - 1200mm wide or would it need to be stenghtened? The 1.6mm sheet thickness is fine but I need a brake a little wider than 600mm.
    Thanks again for posting the project.
    Cheers, Steve.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Vic
    Posts
    5,629

    Default

    G'day Steve

    Great WIP, I for one will definitely be making one of these.

    Have been looking for one for myself and the ones I have seen have either been abused or are too much $$$$.

    Have managed to score myself a nice little foot operated guillotine and this will be the perfect companion for it.
    Cheers

    DJ


    ​ADMIN

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Yeh you can go greater than 600mm but you really need to scale every piece up, I used a 1m bed on the first item with all the listed steel thicknesses and it just bowed through the centre when I tried to fold a full width and even bowed on a steel fold width of 400mm. Lot of force required to bend 1m wide and a lot of strength lost spanning that distance, thats why the commercial units cant even be lifted by 4 people, so hence the alternative 600mm

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Just a follow up, Ill post a copy of all the dxf files required for it to be laser cut at completion, so if you want to save yourself a lot of time and heartache then you take this disk in to a local steel merchant. Laser at a guess from memory is about 80-120 cant remember any more its been that long since I did an order, but its worth paying for the saving of about a weeks filing and grinding. Still there are bits your going to have to do by hand "sorry" thats life. If you want to make it commercially go for it I couldnt care less, this is my design and its as far as Im concerned freeware, for info local panel and paint shops are willing to pay 1200 for it and that was local from word of mouth from units I had made for others, Im waiting for Rod to catch up, so I can do the next lot of instaments, this way I dont miss something, come on rod put the shopping down and get back into the shed, stealing his thunder hes already got the ends done and Im hoping by the end of the weekend hell be up to were the post is finished, so I can do the next installment
    Enjoy now
    Steve

  6. #21
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    Perth WA
    Posts
    526

    Default

    Finally caught up. As I can't weld all that well I have drilled and tapped the unit. I have substituted 6mm for 8mm bolts in a couple of places because they were the only sizes I had to hand. I have added extra bolts where I have done this to maintain the strength and Steve will know where these are.
    This is a great deisgn and if you make it accurately it just fits like a glove when you assemble it.
    A couple of photos and ready for the next installment Steve.
    Cheers,
    Rod

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Youve done well there rod, okay Ill start tonight to draw up the next part, as you can see rods finished the base assy, the next bit is the lifting assy which comprises the front arm that you bend the steel up with, then the clamping assy which is the pan brake fingers ect and finally the locking assy which uses an overcentre lock to hold the fingers down hard onto your sheet of steel. Damn mate you did that faster than I thought, Now I got to pull my finger out

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 7. Lifting assy handle and locating guides are simply made out of 20mm round stock. The handle is 400mm long and 20mm round, it can be longer if you wish or shorter. I mill both sides of one end down by 3mm per side with a milled length of 55mm, you could also easily file this shape in as well, its not critical, the flat surfaces are a means of allowing the handle to sit flush with the lifting arm. There are two 8mm holes and these are centre located from the end 10mm and 40mm. These are here so you can bolt the item to the lifting arm, if your happy once again welding the item in place then disregard drilling the holes and just weld the handle in place when the time comes The locating guides are included into this step because they are 20mm round as well, you need qty 2 and they each have a length of 35mm, find the end centre of each piece and mark it out so you have 4 perfect quarters. Remove one complete quarter for the full length, file it, mill it, it doesn’t matter just remove one quarter. After you’ve done this test there fit against the end pieces, these go into the 20mm holes at the front, sand grind ect to make a nice smooth fit, your goal is to have them turn smoothly in the end pieces, and yes you do use grease when assembly comes, so you can test them with grease as well
    Okay that’s this step completed

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 8 Lifting assy brace piece, this is exactly the same piece as you made for the bed brace, its flat steel 10mm thick, 652mm long and 25mm high its purpose is to extend the 10mm edge you have on your lifting assy and help assist in the fold. For those that don’t know trying to bend a piece of steel with a 10mm edge is really horrible, you have this sheet of steel hanging out and swaying everywhere, you also start getting creases in your steel ect when you try to bend it, hence the requirement of this piece, it extends that 10mm edge and turns it into a 35mm edge, If you want you can use a wider piece than the 25mm bar, but the wider you go the more it intrudes into working space around the folder.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 9. Really easy one, you need two of these, this is a flat piece of 5mm thick steel 110mm long and 25mm wide. It has a 5mm by 5mm notch in one corner and this is here to allow you to put a blob of weld on it later. The hole is central and 40mm away from the edge, its an m8 size drilled and tapped. The purpose of this piece is to allow the lifting assy to be moved closer or further away from the bed assy. The closer you get the sharper the bend radius on the item you fold, the further away the rounder the bend radius you get on the folded job. That’s a s difficult as it gets

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 10 Okay this is the last step for component making for the the lift assy, in the next step we will put all these bits together.This item is a piece of 10mm flat bar 650mm long and 75mm wide, if you want wider like a 100mm then thats fine as well but you cant vary the 650mm length There are two slots, one on each end, drill these with a 10mm drill at the co-ordinates ive written and then simply file the gap or mill between the holes. The two holes in the centre are drilled and tapped for an m8 thread, this is were you will bolt up your handle from the earlier step. You have to mill both 75mm width ends as shown in the drawing down to a thickness of approx 5mm and a width of 25mm. The adjustment slides you made before in step 9 need to sit neatly and flush at these points. If you want to this can be laser cut as well for about 15 bucks.
    Okay that’s it for a little while and then we can put this lot together

  12. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 11 Okay lets put the bits together, fist well take your adjustment arms and your pivot units and weld them together. Basically take the adjustment arm end with the notch slit into it, place this into the 45 degreed groove of the pivot units and overhang the edge with the cutout, you need to make a left and right unit so the cut outs overhang on the inside edge, now just weld the item into place on the outer edge of the pivot unit, use the attached photo for reference if needed.
    Next bolt these two slides onto the main fold arm this is the unit with the 25mm milled edgee. Now bolt the handle to the back side
    And lastlty the brace, butt this against the top front edge to extend the 10mm width to now 35mm width, you can either weld it into place or if you so choose drill and tap the unit in place, your call.
    The lift mechanism is now complete, undo the bed base plate from the ends slide this unit into the front 20mm holes use a bit of grease and then bolt the base bed back on. Hope it all makes sense
    Steve

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    and more photos

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 12 Okay there are two of these units they allow the clamping assy to move up and down and backwards and forwards. For info when you bend a piece of steel you adjust the clamping fingers back from the main edge of the bed by the thickness of the steel your bending, if you don’t move them back then when you raise your lifting assy youll snap of the front edge of your fingers. Mmm not good that’s for sure. Okay the drawing is for aesthetics, you can use just a piece of square if you want. 10mm thick, 145 mm long and 50mm high. These can be laser cut for about 5.50 each.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Aug 2005
    Location
    Perth
    Posts
    185

    Default

    Step 13 This is simply a piece of unequal angle 65mm by 50mm x 6mm thick with a length of 675mm It holds the fingers and supplys the ridgity to hold the sheet solid and square during the fold. If your going to bend thicker steel than 1.6mm then this needs to be 10mm thick or greater, same rule applies if you wish to make the bed wider than the 600mm unit. You need to notch the ends on the 50mm length in to a depth of 15mm with a width of 15mm this is to allow clearance on your base bed end pieces, if you want for aesthetics you can machine the 50mm length to a total thickness of 35mm for the entire length, your choice. The cad picture shows the unit with notched ends, my photo shows where I milled it for the full length.

Page 2 of 10 FirstFirst 1234567 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •