Thread: Thin metal options

I'm restoring a late 60's Ford muscle car and there are 12-ish interior chromed trim pieces that have surface rust, pitting, and a few small (1/8) holes drilled. The pieces are 22 gauge. As much as reasonably possible I want to avoid buying aftermarket parts. I'd rather repair the originals as -reasonably- close to factory as I can, then re-chrome them.


Before I hear a cacophony of "hire a pro"... NO. I weld body panels, frames, fabricate jigs, etc. Many years ago I was a journeyman welder. I just never worked with thin metal. I'm just looking for some guidance to save me a lot of time researching.


I can lay down MIG/TIG tacks to fill holes, etc, but am worried about warping and burn-thru. I know people weld 22 gauge but I'm told it'll most likely warp and hence look terrible chromed. I can braze it, but am still worried about warping. I can solder it, but I don't like the idea of using lead solder because it's so dissimilar to the base metal i.e. not original and may not wear well. Higher temp solders may be an option, just don't know what are good options.


I'm wondering what's available that's more similar to the base metal that I can work with given the gauge. If it were thicker I could just lay down tacks with MIG and grind it smooth. It'd be time consuming, but worth it for me because it would be "restored", not "patched". I've seen people use JB Weld for this sort of thing... and that's not what I'm gonna do.




Thanks,
-Richard

I clamp things like that to copper if i can, you can buy these from welding suppliers.
Cut or bend to required shape if needed.

Originally Posted by shedhappens

I clamp things like that to copper if i can, you can buy these from welding suppliers.
Cut or bend to required shape if needed.

You've used MIG/TIG for 22 gauge and it not warp? Can you provide details of what filler, etc?

Just to add a bit more info, the bttom of the weld pool will form on the copper and not stick, the copper also helps to control heat and if clamped well enough will limit distortion while it cools.

I pretty much use .9 mig wire for thin and thick stuff, i am just a hack but have done quite a bit of welding thin stuff, .6 wire would be better or tig maybe, i mostly used oxy/acetylene but got rid of the bottles some time ago and now use .9 mig wire for pretty much most things that i need to weld.

One more thing, make sure that the trims are not stainless as it was used widely for trims bumpers ect back in the 60's

I have restored a few cars my personal opinion is. to braze or silver solder them, using oxy/acet, diligent use use of the flame will minimize warping, and can be dressed with a hammer and dolly after brazing.

As above check if they are stainless, at that thickness I suspect they are.

For tig work ensure no gap in the fit-up then you will not need filler, tig is also softer so planishing afterwards to restore the shape is a lot easier than a mig weld.

What trim pieces are they and what make / model ?

For me it would depend on how expensive and irreplaceable these trims are. If they're either, then I'd pay a restoration type plater to sort it out (assuming they're chromed).

I haven't followed the auto scene for quite a while but flame and Tig seemed to be the go to for controllability and workability as others have mentioned.

Originally Posted by droog

As above check if they are stainless, at that thickness I suspect they are.

For tig work ensure no gap in the fit-up then you will not need filler, tig is also softer so planishing afterwards to restore the shape is a lot easier than a mig weld.

What trim pieces are they and what make / model ?

It's a 68 mustang. The pieces are the trim for the fold down rear seat. They're not stainless, as far as I can tell. I understand that Ford only used stainless on external trim.

Originally Posted by RichardMA

It's a 68 mustang. The pieces are the trim for the fold down rear seat. They're not stainless, as far as I can tell. I understand that Ford only used stainless on external trim.

Like this:
https://www.stang-aholics.com/i-2419...lding-kit.html

If so yep looks like chrome plate, that being the case you will need to strip the chrome first, do repairs, then get it re-plated.
After stripping tig is the correct process as you will need to plannish and hand finish to a smooth surface, mig is too hard a material once welded and will be near on impossible to get a smooth flat finish for this purpose.

Cost wise I expect it to balloon significantly, I understand the desire for original but your in for a world of pain.

22g is about .8mm, it is not that thin, a 1/8" hole could also be filled with an arc welder as it only needs a spot of weld.
A trick would be to place the hole over a 3/16 nut and give it a couple of taps from behind with a centre punch to flare the hole edges outwards slightly on the top to try to reduce the depth of the root of the weld to enable an easier clean up.
Fixing the trim to a copper backing sure does make a better job. If using mig i would advise against using flux cored wire as it is too aggressive for this type of weld.
My opinion is that these holes can be welded by whatever way you are competent.
Reasons for removing the chrome is that it is not gr8 to beathe and welding it also moves it into and around the weld and hardens the metal, it will make buffing back the weld a little harder but not imposible, mig welds with gp wire are not hard and easily buffed and machined providing there is no chrome in the steel, 4140 for example can be pretty tough around the weld zone after welding with arc or mig.

It would be worthwhile speaking to your plater that you intend to use, past experience was that all existing chrome needed to be stripped prior to re-plating on repaired items. Maybe processes have changed or only some platers work that way.

I can see plating the old parts being more expensive than the kit.

Originally Posted by droog

.........past experience was that all existing chrome needed to be stripped prior to re-plating on repaired items. Maybe processes have changed or only some platers work that way.

Yep, stripped to bare metal.