Thread: Swarf/coolant guard (on Hafco AL-336 lathe)

Dislike cleaning the ways on my Hercus. I usually machine with a sheet of paper under the chuck, and tip the metal off the sheet every so often.

Hate even more cleaning the swarf out of the Hafco, because the bed gap casting seems designed to retain everything that is thrown near it. And don't get me started on the multiple socket head screws that also fill up with coolant, and rust up in a few days.

I have thought about those rubber accordion things, but;

1. I reckon the mountains and valleys would just attract more metal and coolant?
2. the challenge seems how to attach them, and
3. there is a gap between the cross slide, and the rubber?

So, I eventually found some suitable scrap in the kitchen fabricator's bin:
IMG_3451.jpg

which, tucked under the unbolted compound, seems to fit nicely:
IMG_3452.jpg


So, mark the curve, and hack it out with an angle grinder:
IMG_3453.jpg IMG_3454.jpg


Note the profile:
IMG_3455.jpg
It should perfectly channel the coolant in that corner?

IMG_3456.jpg
Yes, it does!



Problem now is how to attach it. I don't want to drill holes in the cross slide.
Plus, the step in this metal is too tall, so the metal rocks on the saddle casting a little.
(I might have to crease it, which isn't easy in 1mm Stainless)


For now, I just use a few strong magnets:
IMG_3457.jpg IMG_3458.jpg
and some 1/2" square steel.



It does clear the headstock:
IMG_3459.jpg
but the first person I showed it too said it looks too flimsy and might be dangerous?




I would cut a bit more off it, and bolt to the saddle, except that there isn't a lot of casting there, due to me mounting the DRO slide on that side of the saddle:
IMG_1715.jpg

Have you considered magnets?

Originally Posted by nigelpearson

Hate even more cleaning the swarf out of the Hafco, because the bed gap casting seems designed to retain everything that is thrown near it. And don't get me started on the multiple socket head screws that also fill up with coolant, and rust up in a few days.

Oh, I remember that very well. The AL335 had the same problem (unsurprisingly), absolutely no thought given to swarf flow. It all just piles up in that bathtub shaped area under the chuck until a big stringy one whips around, grabs everything and launches it in every direction... Ended up I'd be trying to sweep it all up the bed and through the web into the chip tray after every pass, which was difficult in itself thanks to the shape of it - and half the time a single pass would create enough swarf for it to snag and launch partway through anyway. Used to drive me batty, along with having to use a piece of 20x3mm flat bar welded to a stick to clean out between the bed and the chip tray. Does seem to be a fairly common flaw across a lot of gap bed machines though, not just Chinese ones?

The best solution I could come up with for that one was to buy a machine with honking great triangular holes right under the chuck, and minimal flat surface between there and the big oval holes through the bed... Every single time I use the Graziano, one of the most enjoyable things about it is watching the swarf build up in a little pile, and then start falling off into the chip tray - where it is VERY easy to get at for cleaning up later. Sounds insanely trivial, but after years of the AL335 launching showers of swarf past my ears 3/4 of the way through a pass... Bonus points if it was a rare occasion when I was running coolant.

As far as the corner you've painted yourself into , the only solution that I can think of right off the top of my head is to machine a large U clamp arrangement, one part that bolts to your steel sheet, and the other wrapping around the circular base of the compound slide and then bolting to the first part. Or make it in a single piece, bore a circular hole the size of the compound slide base, split one side of it, and use a single clamping bolt (obviously would need to remove the compound to fit it if using the second method). Either way means you'd have to loosen the clamp for the cover any time you want to rotate the compound, but it's A solution.

Hi Nigel, Guys,

I recall some time ago posting a picture of my solution ! A silicon baking sheet secured to the cross slide and a couple of magnets behind underneath the chuck.

05-06-2022-003.jpg

Originally Posted by Jekyll and Hyde

the only solution that I can think of right off the top of my head is to machine a large U clamp arrangement, one part that bolts to your steel sheet, and the other wrapping around the circular base of the compound slide and then bolting to the first part.

Not a bad idea!


Ideally, I'd create a slotted tool holding plate that sits on top of the current cross slide, and drill and tap into that as much as I like, along with a rigid parting tool on the back, and pegs for ball turning attachments, et c.


But, for now, the magnets on a few pieces of scrap steel seem to work:
IMG_3480.jpg

Originally Posted by BaronJ

my solution ! A silicon baking sheet secured to the cross slide and a couple of magnets behind underneath the chuck.

The silicon would be nice and slippery, so the swarf should just fall off!!!

I do wonder about the folds when the saddle is closer to the chuck/face-plate, though.
Do you have to re-position the magnets a lot to prevent fouling?

Hi Nigel,

Yes the silicon sheet does foul the four jaw but in general it folds itself up behind the three jaw chuck and you don't get any interference from it. It does get oily and fine swarf does stick to the oil film, but it brushes off easily. I've got mine so that it also covers the unprotected lead screw in front of the cross slide.

As far as lubrication goes, a squirt of oil under the sheet in front of the saddle now and again keeps the shears nicely lubricated under there.

This is what I came up with at least 15 years ago with the same problem as you have.
It's still going great.

You would have to move your scale to the other side though, a bit dangerous having it on that side anyway.

The saddle one is attached using the existing way wiper screws, the tray just sits in and.is below the way height so it doesn't interfere with anything.

The leadscrew one is attached using the 2 threads that where already tapped for a rack, as the usa have a left hand carriage handwheel, it is left off for the right hand sold in Australia.

The leadscrew is fully protected until the carriage is about 300mm along, which saves.a.lot.of cleaning.
The saddle one is easily removed with just a Phillips head screwdriver.

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Dave, I like that little removable cover between the saddle:
bf39a8c0c17a82aac8ac3041a700cc47.jpg
with handle facing backwards. How does that sit in there?

Originally Posted by Dave J

You would have to move your scale to the other side though, a bit dangerous having it on that side anyway.

Dangerous? Nyaah - it is lower than the cross slide!
I put it that side for maximum tailstock access:
IMG_1743.jpg


Hasn't been a problem with swarf or jaw fowling yet, although the occasional job gets close:
IMG_1740.jpg

Sorry I missed this.

That is a piece of sail track carrying the scale cable over the back.
Now gone as I fitted a taper attachment and it now is concealed on the opposite side through a metal drinking straw of all things, lol

The tray is one piece welded together, so it's all held by the 2x way wiper screws.

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Originally Posted by Dave J

Sorry I missed this.

That is a piece of sail track carrying the scale cable over the back.
Now gone as I fitted a taper attachment and it now is concealed on the opposite side through a metal drinking straw of all things, lol

The tray is one piece welded together, so it's all held by the 2x way wiper screws.

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I'd like to see that taper attachment,

is it homemade or a commercial unit made for the 12x36?

https://m.facebook.com/groups/173778...0695819665755/

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