Thread: Lathe Info

Your lathe certainly looks like another "Taiwanese from the 1980's" type lathe. I have a McMillan.
In an earlier post you asked for inspiration.
I'd suggest that you make a spanner to clamp onto the outboard end of the spindle (there is probably enough spindle to allow that when you open the gear train door) to hold the spindle when you want to loosen the chuck.
Even though it's quick, if you use the back gear to lock the spindle, eventually you will break a tooth off the back gear. That had happened to mine before I got it.
I made a spanner that clamps onto the spindle and I use a bit of hard wood that stands on the bed under one of the chuck jaws. The spanner is about 800mm long so doesn't take much to loosen the chuck.

spindle spanner 001.jpgspanner 002.jpg



Sure it takes a few minutes to set it up but I'm not on a dead line. Rather take a little longer than bust another tooth.
I can only comment on my lathe but it's not a bad little machine for what it is. (its certainly not a Colchester. lol) I've fixed/improved a few things on it which has made it better as well.
regards
Peter

Originally Posted by bollie7

Your lathe certainly looks like another "Taiwanese from the 1980's" type lathe. I have a McMillan.
In an earlier post you asked for inspiration.
I'd suggest that you make a spanner to clamp onto the outboard end of the spindle (there is probably enough spindle to allow that when you open the gear train door) to hold the spindle when you want to loosen the chuck.
Even though it's quick, if you use the back gear to lock the spindle, eventually you will break a tooth off the back gear. That had happened to mine before I got it.
I made a spanner that clamps onto the spindle and I use a bit of hard wood that stands on the bed under one of the chuck jaws. The spanner is about 800mm long so doesn't take much to loosen the chuck.

spindle spanner 001.jpgspanner 002.jpg



Sure it takes a few minutes to set it up but I'm not on a dead line. Rather take a little longer than bust another tooth.
I can only comment on my lathe but it's not a bad little machine for what it is. (its certainly not a Colchester. lol) I've fixed/improved a few things on it which has made it better as well.
regards
Peter

Thanks Peter, I'm never too old to learn stuff.
My favourite saying is that; "the more you learn the more you realise you dont know".
I conjured that one up myself, after doing many years of night school and I eventually drew that conclusion.

I appreciate that info regarding the spanner, I will definitely take you advice.
I had to move up to a slightly bigger more capable lathe after trying to make a steel bending form for 50mm diameter tube out of a 20kg steel drop out.
I eventually got it done on the Hercus, but it was tough going.
I still have another similar form to machine and am tossing up whether to persist with the Hercus since it is all setup to do another, or switch and do it on my newer lathe.

I just got this sent to me which seems worth posting/sharing.
I know I'll give it a read.

Lathe Alignment Guide For Beginners - LPR Toolmakers

Well, it looks like my lathe will be sitting a little long in storage as I have a another small project and some clearing out work to do to make space for the new lathe.

I have to check a couple things off my to do list first.

Originally Posted by bollie7

Your lathe certainly looks like another "Taiwanese from the 1980's" type lathe. I have a McMillan.
In an earlier post you asked for inspiration.
I'd suggest that you make a spanner to clamp onto the outboard end of the spindle (there is probably enough spindle to allow that when you open the gear train door) to hold the spindle when you want to loosen the chuck.
Even though it's quick, if you use the back gear to lock the spindle, eventually you will break a tooth off the back gear. That had happened to mine before I got it.
I made a spanner that clamps onto the spindle and I use a bit of hard wood that stands on the bed under one of the chuck jaws. The spanner is about 800mm long so doesn't take much to loosen the chuck.

spindle spanner 001.jpgspanner 002.jpg



Sure it takes a few minutes to set it up but I'm not on a dead line. Rather take a little longer than bust another tooth.
I can only comment on my lathe but it's not a bad little machine for what it is. (its certainly not a Colchester. lol) I've fixed/improved a few things on it which has made it better as well.
regards
Peter

Hey Peter, I took a closer look at my lathe end shaft and it does not easily offer a clamp on connection point like yours does.

I am not sure what would work best in my case, but and internal expanding clamp seems possible!!!

Any thoughts once you have seen my attached pic's.

Thanks, Russ.

Hi Russ, or should it be Peter,

Anyway the chuck should never be so tight that a quick pull on the chuck key with the spindle locked won’t remove it !

On my Myford there is a pin that goes through the casting at the gear end of the spindle and lodges in a hole drilled into the end belt pulley. This is designed to lock the spindle whilst removing the chuck.

It is very important to keep the threads on both the spindle and in the chuck scrupulously clean and well oiled. A minute bit of swarf will jam in the threads and make it very difficult to unscrew and remove the chuck.

30-04-2022-005.JPG 30-04-2022-004.JPG
I made this tool to enable me to keep the chuck threads clean. Its simply a piece of two or three mm diameter wire with the ends filed to fit the threads then bent round a mandrel to create a spring, then the ends bent outwards so that the tension causes the tip to rest in the chuck threads. Simply rotate to clean the threads. Be careful not to scratch the chuck bore.

A common dodge is to use a wooden wedge between the bull gear and the casing to lock the spindle.

Just an update on my lathe stand.
I found a fairly heavy duty metal drawer, well H/D in todays standards.
It started its life and a laundry stand for a dryer or washing machine, apparently some kind of optional extra.

It seems they turn up from time to time for sale new 2nd hand as some folks install their appliances in cabinets nowadays.

Anyway, it looked intereting to me and I felt that it would fit between the 2 pedestals I'd made and so I took it on to make it fit.
Width and height wise it was good but depth wise it was about 5" to deep yet the drawer inside was about 5" shorter for some reason.

So, I decided to cut the back of the drawer cabinet off and shorten it up 5" which made it a nice depth fit.

A bit of fooling around with making mounting points and I now have a nice largew strong drawer for my heavy stuff.
Again, not rocket science, but a great addition from my point of view.

A further update, I've off the radar once more with a good healthy dose of Covid.
Lucky me...
Could have been worse I guess, but I sure have no plans to go back for seconds.

With respect to my lathe progress has been slow but no rush for now as I still have the Hercus running.
A swap over will require more energy than I currently have.

When I purchased this lathe, a sheet metal rear screem/apron came with it.
It was not fitted but appeared to be fabricated with that intention.

The time has come for me to see how ell it does fit and what might be required to finish it off.
As it turns out it is a pretty good fit and looks like it may have been used as a temporary fixture but never really installed.

The first thing that I noticed was it was made too darn tight to clear the electric motor, in fact it covered the airflow end of the motor, that I figure that it would have been only a mater of time before it would suffer from over heating problem or worse.
The other issue seemed to be that one of the attaching screws was not accessible.

So, I decided to cut and widen the apron at the rear to create better airflow for the motor and chamfer the motor bulge to provide access for the attachment screw.
I've put a 50mm wide piece of 2mm flatbar in as the widening material and so far it has all fallen into place.
There was a few moments during the cutting and widening when everything was pretty darn floppy and a real handful to keep in alignment even with a brace.

I'm not finished yet, but mostly only welding, grinding, priming and painting to go.
I figure that I will paint it a light colour to help with visability and it should be easy to wipe down.

Thanks for your interest and sorry about the stupid orientation of the pictures...

Hi Oddbod,

Have a look at this link !

https://metalworkforums.com/f316/t20...sting-pictures

Russ.
My apologies. Somehow I missed all of your posts since you asked about my spanner. Certainly not snobbing you. lol
Hope you are recovering ok after the Covid.
I reckon it would be possible to make an expanding spanner as you suggested. I suppose you could always drill a hole into the end of your spindle and make some sort of pin spanner as well.
Just been admiring your splash back. That is pretty flash. Will look great when all painted.
Regards Peter

Originally Posted by bollie7

Russ.
My apologies. Somehow I missed all of your posts since you asked about my spanner. Certainly not snobbing you. lol
Hope you are recovering ok after the Covid.
I reckon it would be possible to make an expanding spanner as you suggested. I suppose you could always drill a hole into the end of your spindle and make some sort of pin spanner as well.
Just been admiring your splash back. That is pretty flash. Will look great when all painted.
Regards Peter

Great to hear from you Peter, no harm done.
Still prepping the lathe ready for its final resting place in my workshop.
The end spanner gizmo is kinder on the back burner until I get the more pressing stuff done.

My energy levels, have suffered from this Covid, so everythjng I do leaves me feeling quite depleated.
I finished all my welds and grinding and was lucky enough to get a red oxide primer coat on both sides before sunset.

I also must figure out what lighting will work with this new setup.
The light on my Hercus was just a off the side of the road bedside style lamp.
It seemed to work OK, but I need to refine the light location as with the Hercus lamp, after a long day of machining, I really ended up with very tried eyes.
It seems the light reflecting off the finished metal was hitting me in the eyes and wearing me down.
I will need to improve that situation with this new setup...

You do need good lights over your machines especially as we get older.
I have 3 old BHI LoVo lights. One I fished out of the bin where I worked over 30 years ago. It was bent and mangled but I fixed it all up and have been using it every since. I've converted it to LED though. Its on my grinder bench now as its got quite long arms. I've got another one which I've had for years as well. Its on the lathe also with an LED in it. I also have an led work light above the lathe.
A friend of mine recently gave me another one which he had retrieved from the bin at his work.
I had a couple of weeks holidays recently so spent some time refurbishing it.
As delivered.
bhi light 001.jpg
I reckon they are great machine lights as the arms are geared together.
bhi light 002.jpg
Lot of parts in one though and this is only half of them.
bhi light 003.jpg
This one I've mounted another LED work light to
bhi light 005.jpg

Its just above my other bench.
bhi light 006.jpg

Peter

Very nice Peter, I love recycling and repurposing stuff like that.
So I guess it must be time to toss out the fkints and candles and get serious regarding a better light source.
Side of the road shoppping is great but the choices can be limited at times.
I did score a nice new LED light from Ebay when I redid my sandblast cabinet and that worked a treat.

Guess I need to start considering my options regarding better lighting soon.
Thanks, Russ.

Hi Russ, Guys,

I installed a 4 foot florescent light above the lathe. Having white walls and silver foil ceiling, I don't get any real shadows ! Just ample illumination. I wish the mill was easier to illuminate.

Even with lights above, for me, a good light on a flexible arm of some that you can have the light pointed exactly where you want it is essential. Lots of options around. Could also bbbbbbbuy a new one.