Results 16 to 30 of 46
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21st May 2022, 08:59 PM #16Most Valued Member
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DO you thing you will need to change gears on TU3008G regularly when using it?
What do you mean by this question?
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22nd May 2022, 11:42 AM #17Most Valued Member
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- Apr 2012
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- Healesville
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- 2,129
One of my lathes has a bit under a 2 inch bore another has a 58mm bore, i would happily have a lathe with a 160mm bore but i dont have the room or the funds for that, also you really need a gantry over the top to feed the material into it.
I have lost count of how many times that i have had a 6 foot length or longer of 2 inch dia through the spindle to machine something into the end.... a larger spindle bore gives you much more versatility also to repair machine parts that are longer than what you can fit between centres
So wants, needs, floor space, power supply and budget are the determining factors and most have differant skill levels. I am 100% with snapey on the type of home workshop lathe as it allows you to do things that are just so easy as compared to battling on a small lathe trying smash a larger job with a small hammer.
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22nd May 2022, 12:39 PM #18Golden Member
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- May 2020
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- Willowbank QLD
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- 517
Thanks for the well worded reply. I am not sure if Amused is following along or we have lost him as he is not Amused by the conversation. The quoted reply gives anyone who reads this post a logical answer. I went up the shed and picked up a 6 foot length of 2 inch bar. After I put it down I had a look at all the stuff that interests me and I can see I probably will never need to do this, and if I do I will have to visit a mate or pay someone. I did not not pick up a 6 foot length of 100mm bar, not only because I don't have one but I am not keen on a hernia. This exercise should help anyone buying a lathe to by an appropriate one for there needs. I am not trying to convince someone they need a certain type of lathe or size. I am trying to convince any readers that they need to know what there lathe will be used for before deciding what to get. I wish I had of got the same advice years ago. I delayed getting a lathe as I had been convinced that the one I could have afforded would be two small.
Steve
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22nd May 2022, 06:30 PM #19
Hi John, Steve, Guys,
As you get older it get harder to lift stuff up ! A big lathe has a big chuck !
I've been in an engineering works where a small chuck weights 30 Kg or so and takes a hoist to pick it up. Not a lot of fun in that, but its the difference between a hobbyist and someone who makes a living from machining.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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22nd May 2022, 06:52 PM #20Most Valued Member
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- Jun 2011
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- Australia east coast
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- 71
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- 2,713
Try cutting the taper on the end of a prop shaft bigger in diameter than your spindle bore.
Yes, you *can* do it by turning a stub on the end, gripping it in the chuck, supporting the outboard side in a fixed steady and then - because the shaft is longer than your lathe bed - fitting further supports further out to stop it whipping. Now proceed to turn the taper and cut off the stub.
But it is a right PAIN IN THE A**E.
And better hope it's all good because you'll have a hard time testing the prop for fit with blueing compound or chalk etc.
I've just upgraded from a Monarch CY (16" swing x 54" between centres) to a Dean Smith & Grace Type 17 (17" swing x 48" between centres) pretty much SOLELY to get the spindle bore increase from 1-1/2" to 2-5/8".
There are LOTS of reasons to have a bigger spindle bore, however it's entirely possible what you do/plan to do isn't limited by bore. In which case - lucky you.
PDW
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22nd May 2022, 07:28 PM #21Most Valued Member
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- Apr 2012
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- Healesville
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Hi John, yup... as you get older you need to get smarter and use a workshop hoist, i am fairly organized to change chucks if needed but rarely do these days, i have a 6 inch 3 jaw chuck with a shaft out the back with about a 40mm hole through it, this goes into the 4 jaw when doing hex stuff or maybe for under 12mm i might use a parallel shaft ER40 chuck in the 4 jaw or I often use the hercus for second op's or low tolerance work. The workshop hoist gets used for my dividing head (about 60 kgs) for my 12" rotary table and for loading heavy jobs into the lathe or onto the mill. Also tool chests, benches small mill ect all have wheels on them these days... you just need to adapt or join senior citz m8.
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22nd May 2022, 07:46 PM #22Most Valued Member
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- Australia east coast
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Yeah all of this.
My working rule is, if it fits in the Chipmaster or Emco 11, it goes in the smaller lathe. It only goes in the big lathe if I need the capacity because everything is bigger & heavier requiring thought and power assistance to mount/unmount chucks etc.
And more rolling tool carts, scissor lift table etc. I have a couple more big projects in mind and a wrecked back wouldn't help.
PDW
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22nd May 2022, 08:25 PM #23Diamond Member
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- Mar 2014
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- South of Adelaide
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Larger spindle bore, means larger spindle bearings, that gets you better rigidity. This is something we factor in when buying lathes at work.
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22nd May 2022, 09:30 PM #24Senior Member
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- May 2019
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- Picnic Point, Sydney
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- 77
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- 312
Why lift chucks when you can get this for less than $100? https://www.dealsplace.com.au/produc...QaAhJrEALw_wcB
A simple rail system along the length of the lathe of maybe continue through your workshop to other machines too.
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22nd May 2022, 11:58 PM #25
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23rd May 2022, 09:28 AM #26Most Valued Member
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23rd May 2022, 04:15 PM #27Intermediate Member
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- Feb 2022
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- Mandurah
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Guys
Thanks for the great replies, Lots to think about.
To answer some of the questions and to give some more info.
I have plenty of room for a big lathe but dont see the value in buying something that size.
I have a mate with a Myford lathe and I have got him to do a few jobs for me. Bushes for a motorcycle 19mm OD, Holder for a bike wheel 20mm OD, Modify a press tool 28mm OD. None of these were over 250mm in length. I just dont like relying on others and would like to do them myself.
I cant really see me doing much bigger jobs, Only things over 30mm I can think of is some pressing dies and maybe some levelling feet. Cant think of anything longer that 250mm
Reason for the bore size is that it seems to reduce waste but also buying a smaller lathe saves a lot of money to buy material to waste.
There is 3 phase to the block but not to the shed and I cant see the value in digging up the drive to run it to the shed, Most lathes I think are suitable are 240V is there a need to go bigger?
I like the idea of quick change gear box as I can see my self been lazy and not using the correct feed rate for the job. I know I shouldnt but I am just been realistic about what I will do.
I cant think of a threading job I cant do with a tap or die but may do some metric threading in the future.
With the TU3008G my understanding is it has some quick change gears but also gears that needs to be physically swapped. I have not researched enough to know how much the range the quick change section gets you.
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23rd May 2022, 04:28 PM #28Most Valued Member
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- sydney ( st marys )
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With the TU3008G my understanding is it has some quick change gears but also gears that needs to be physically swapped. I have not researched enough to know how much the range the quick change section gets you.
Most smaller home workshop lathes with Quick Change Gearbox will either come with some additional change gears supplied or available as extras.
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23rd May 2022, 04:53 PM #29Golden Member
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- May 2020
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- Willowbank QLD
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- 517
Amused
Is there any reason you left out the TU 250V https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/L689 or https://www.fioramachinery.com.au/sh...bench-lathe-5/ .
I am not suggesting you buy it but it is more capable than the Myford.
It would do everything you want to do now, leave cash for tooling and if you decide that lathe work is your thing you would have a good understanding of what to upgrade to. Look after it and you won't loose a heap secondhand.
Steve
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23rd May 2022, 05:21 PM #30Intermediate Member
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- Feb 2022
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- Mandurah
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