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  1. #1
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    Default End mills with guide - do they exist

    I’m not sure what to call them but am wondering if there are end mills that are set up like a trim router where there is a bearing on the end to allow a piece to be presented and trimmed around? I’d like to use this to chamfer a range of materials and couldn’t find such a tool but maybe I just don’t know what to call it? I guess another option would be a piloted end mill and then buy or make a pilot larder than the diameter of the end mill?

    Any suggestions on these and if they exist?

  2. #2
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    Something like this ?

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ak747RzFUa8

    Steve

  3. #3
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    Hi there,

    I know what you mean but I'm not sure if it can be done the same way on a mill.

    Moving the mill table x and y by hand in order to trace a template would not be easy. Cutting forces would make it difficult to "feel" when the bearing is up against the template.

    I could be wrong. Interested to hear from others...


    Edit: well bugger me! There you go!!!
    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #4
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    Have heard of people (Baron J, I think?) using a woodworking carbide router bit, should be OK providing small cuts were taken.
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  5. #5
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    Default End mills with guide - do they exist

    Maybe if you attached one of those chamfering tools on a spring loaded mount somehow it could be driven roughly around the outside of a part with the mill and the spring would keep it in contact with the part??

    Steve

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Have heard of people (Baron J, I think?) using a woodworking carbide router bit, should be OK providing small cuts were taken.
    HTH
    Kryn
    I regularly use 1/2” shank router bits to machine ally, I have used carbide router bits to cut steel, but honestly, it’s sub optimal, it’s slow, all the geometry is wrong so it can be quite violent if you get greedy with DOC and it’s really easy to chip the carbide if you aren’t paying attention

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by KBs PensNmore View Post
    Have heard of people (Baron J, I think?) using a woodworking carbide router bit, should be OK providing small cuts were taken.
    HTH
    Kryn
    Hi Guys,

    Yes ! Carbide router bits are very useful for jobs like this. There are only two caveats, the one on 1/4" inch shafts need to be used with care ! It is very easy to bend the shaft and then you are in all sorts of poo. The other is that they need to be run quite fast, some mills can't run fast enough. Depending upon the material I run from about 1000 rpm up to the mills maximum at 2500 rpm. In steel, high speeds and small cuts ! You soon get to know if the cutter is happy. For a lot of jobs I take the small bearing off, though I found that that with the bearing on its easy to bend the shaft.

    The 1/2" shaft ones are the very good ones !

    HTH.

    Just a quick edit ! Often you cannot see the bearing turning, so I paint half the rim with red marker.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Thanks Steve

    yep that’s the kind of thing I was looking for. I was thinking to run it in a mill and move the piece rather than the bit but that’s basically it - thanks!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi there,

    I know what you mean but I'm not sure if it can be done the same way on a mill.

    Moving the mill table x and y by hand in order to trace a template would not be easy. Cutting forces would make it difficult to "feel" when the bearing is up against the template.

    I could be wrong. Interested to hear from others...


    Edit: well bugger me! There you go!!!
    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    thanks Simon

    I was thinking of moving the part around the bit by hand and running the bit in the mill.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Danger Mouse View Post
    thanks Simon

    I was thinking of moving the part around the bit by hand and running the bit in the mill.
    I don't think that is a good Idea !

    If you value your fingers the work should be securely fastened in place !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by BaronJ View Post
    I don't think that is a good Idea !

    If you value your fingers the work should be securely fastened in place !
    I can vouch for that from very similar personal experience.

    When I was younger and even more stupid, I mounted a router in the vice upside down with a ball bearing rounding bit in it.
    Proceeded to round some short bits of timber until the inevitable ZING…..that’s going to smart once my nerves catch up…..as the side of my thumb went through the bit when the timber grabbed.

    Steve

  12. #12
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    Even with one of those pneumatic chamfer tools you need to be switched on. Aside from the fact they hurl metal splinters at you constantly, at some point you wind up climb cutting with them and it gets interesting if you don’t keep your wits about you.
    I used to have one until I dropped it and cracked the housing.

    Having said that, they do work very well for putting a small bevel on parts.

  13. #13
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    Thanks guys - I’ll definitely change my approach - I’d like to keep my fingers

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