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Thread: Leaking

  1. #1
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    Default Leaking

    Remember that oil can I made not long ago ?



    Well it has a slow leak between the base and the body.
    I made the base a light press fit into the body (5mm depth) so it wouldn't distort the body when assembled and used Loctite 243 in the joint.
    I am now in the process of draining and cleaning it ready for repair.

    Any opinions as to a permanent solution ?

  2. #2
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    Default Leaking

    243 says oil tolerant however 263 says oil proof. I’d use 263 and you can always use heat later to split them if required.

    Maybe there’s a high spot on the fitting too where loctite is not getting to. I’d also rotate the lower part as I pressed it in to ensure I got a good film all the way around.

  3. #3
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    Loctite requires a gap of about 0.1mm to work and reach full strength.
    If you need accurate location you need to add a shallow groove to allow the polymerisation to take place.

    Robert

  4. #4
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    Default Leaking

    Why not cut a small groove in the lower part and either add an oring or allow the gap for the loctite?

    Edit: saying the same thing as Robert Leaking

  5. #5
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    Was also thinking of using 5 min Araldite this time instead of the Loctite.
    Actually, I've got high strength Araldite too.

  6. #6
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    Default

    Ive never had good results with epoxy/araldite around oil - but could just be me.

    Personally I’d use some good oil resistant silicon “gasket maker”
    I’m not generally a silicon fan for engines and machinery due to potential for loose lumps to block things - but where I do always use it is for sump gaskets. Far less leaks overall than anything else I’ve used.
    I think if it can handle life as a sump gasket it’s going to hold up ok in an oil can.
    Just clean the parts well with acetone or thinners etc, put a nice fillet in the bottom piece coat the other surfaces and push the body in.

    Steve

  7. #7
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    I would suggest this product SEAL ALL https://www.spotlightstores.com/craf...hoCbFgQAvD_BwE and maybe this one https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...E&gclsrc=aw.ds . I have the same opinion with Araldite, I think it would be a waste of time.
    All The Best steran50 Stewart

    The shortest way to do many things is to do only one thing at once.

  8. #8
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    Default

    soft solder

  9. #9
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by eskimo View Post
    soft solder
    Aluminium ?
    Thanks but I don't think so.

  10. #10
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    I cut a shallow groove into the neck of the base and used Araldite as a sealer.
    Araldite is very sticky and very viscous so I figure as the parts are pushed together it will roll nicely into the bottom of the groove to form a good seal.

    And it worked. I checked it this morning and no leak.

    Thanks guys.

  11. #11
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    Default

    It will be interesting to see how it goes long term, but I have found Araldite certainly won't hold against petrol long term, although it will hold for some time, (some days if I recall correctly). Oil would possibly be much less aggressive than petrol, and you may have long term success, but I certainly wouldn't bet on it. If it does give problems down the track, Tig would be good or even those low temperature aluminium brazing rods that get flogged around country shows and agricultural shows should work, as would stuff like Loctite Master Gasket, Permatex or Cat Red.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by phaser View Post
    Aluminium ?
    Thanks but I don't think so.
    .

    yep...I thought it was S/S

  13. #13
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    I didn't think soft solder would work on SS either? I've only ever had success soldering SS with this stuff:

    https://www.amazon.com.au/Harris-Saf...565042544&th=1
    Chris

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I didn't think soft solder would work on SS either? I've only ever had success soldering SS with this stuff:

    https://www.amazon.com.au/Harris-Saf...565042544&th=1
    yes it does...my dad (a tinsmith) always soldered S/S
    Here's a pic of of a S/S bucket he made around 40yrs ago with soldered seams

    20220118_085110.jpg

  15. #15
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    Default

    Well I have learnt something new .. Thank you for the hint to use soft solder on Stainless-- I too have used high silver content brazing alloy.

    re epoxy on metal, I am told there are epoxies that will stick so hope phaser has the magic to make it work. Nice oil can
    cheers
    David

    ------------------------------------------------
    A society grows great when old men plant trees whose shade they’ll never sit in. (Greek proverb)

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