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  1. #31
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    Hi John,
    the problem with all the electric paint scrapers is that they don't retract under power. A power scraper for metal moves under power both in and out. Maybe yours is different, but all the ones I tried don't move the chisel until you push it against something. That doesn't generally work in metal scraping, because you are trying to "dig into" a flat surface. So they really need to move in and out even without any resistance. Happy to stand corrected though.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by simonl View Post
    Hi all,

    ....
    We could start a joint project thread.
    Simon
    I think that's a really good idea. But we would need to buy a bunch of donor machines at the same time. The manufacturers constantly seem to change their models and internal designs. Whatever we come up with for a good group build design, won't be applicable for the next model....
    A good strategy would be:
    • get group build members list
    • buy the number of reciprocating saws required and agreed to
    • jointly design the modifications
    • get volunteers with the right gear and time to make each modification on ALL of them,
      e.g. one person makes the scotch yoke mod, another cuts the dovetail slot in all the drive gears, another cuts out the blade holder arms, another makes the blade holder top, another the blade holder clamps, another does the housing mods etc...
    • then send all the bits to the participating members to assemble themselves...

    An alternative might be to do a group buy of the donor machines, then group design the mods and make detailed drawings, and everyone does their own mod....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

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    Good ideas there Joe.

    I like the idea of each person assigned to a specific part. So much quicker/easier to set up tooling for one job and do all the same.

    Cheers,

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
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    Geelong, Australia
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    57
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    Simon - I think you need to start that separate thread before it grows legs here

    Steve

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jan 2016
    Location
    Wodonga Vic
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    38
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    633

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    Count me in on a group buy/build,

    I have a 25x25 Sandvik scraper blade around here somewhere... just waiting for a use

    I can cut out a batch of parts on the water jet at work if it helps

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Quote Originally Posted by OxxAndBert View Post
    Simon - I think you need to start that separate thread before it grows legs here

    Steve
    Good idea.


    https://metalworkforums.com/f303/t20...-bunax-project

    Simon
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    1,105

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    But we would need to buy a bunch of donor machines at the same time. The manufacturers constantly seem to change their models and internal designs. Whatever we come up with for a good group build design, won't be applicable for the next model....
    In that case you might be better off buying a known brand from the get go, something such as a Makita who rarely ever change there designs.

    Everyone is buying cordless gear now so these can usually be picked up cheaply.

    Something to think about.

    Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,439

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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Hi John,
    the problem with all the electric paint scrapers is that they don't retract under power. A power scraper for metal moves under power both in and out. Maybe yours is different, but all the ones I tried don't move the chisel until you push it against something. That doesn't generally work in metal scraping, because you are trying to "dig into" a flat surface. So they really need to move in and out even without any resistance. Happy to stand corrected though.
    Hi Joe,

    Yes you are quite right ! The blade runs up against a cam, so only pushes the blade/chisel. I hadn't realised that until you mentioned it.

    Thanks for putting me right
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  9. #39
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Hi Joe, Guys,

    Just a wild thought, would adding a suitable return spring pull back the scraper blade enough to make this work properly ?

    I haven't tried it on mine but will have a look at it later.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #40
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
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    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
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    worth a try, John!
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  11. #41
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    Aug 2010
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    Did you have a go yet at adding a spring return to a paint scraper?
    Interested to hear the results....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  12. #42
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Did you have a go yet at adding a spring return to a paint scraper?
    Interested to hear the results....
    Hi Joe,

    Thanks for the reminder ! I'd forgotten all about it, what with the mill motor having a smoke and needing sorting out. I'll try and dig it out and have a look later.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  13. #43
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    Default Paint Scraper !

    Hi Joe, Guys,

    A few pictures and notes !

    12-03-2022-001.jpg 12-03-2022-002.jpg

    This is the paint scraper that I was referring to.

    12-03-2022-005.jpg 12-03-2022-004.jpg 12-03-2022-003.jpg

    The blades, their were five supplied, this is a picture of the one I could lay my hands one this morning. As you can see the blade just pushes into the mouth of the machine and is locked in place by sliding the knob on top. The switch with the red bars on it is the on/off and speed control.

    Those blades are fully hardened and I had to use a carbide drill to make a hole for a spring to hook into. I just used a length of copper wire through the loop at the other end of the spring to apply tension. As you said Joe, the chisel is not pulled back in use relying on you pushing forward.

    What I hadn't realised was that the chisel is only pushed forward about four mm, which I think might not be enough for scraping. There is an oil hole underneath which allows oil to be put on the pivot for the ram. I've not taken the machine apart but I think that the mechanism might be similar to the machines that you are modifying.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  14. #44
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    4mm is only useful for removing small high spots with a very narrow blade - maybe ½" wide. It may be handy for dovetails etc. But most would use a purpose-made hand scraper at that point....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

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