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28th Nov 2021, 03:52 PM #1Senior Member
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Steelfast Bandsaw Help - Blades, what to order & more...
I have an old Steelfast bandsaw, currently it has a 3/8" wide blade with 14TPI.
I feel I need to acquire a spare blade or two and would like to know where to buy them and what to ask for.
What kind of money should I expect them to cost???
I dont expect to cut anything thicker than 1/4 mild steel and mostly expect to cut much thinner sheet metal mostly and possibly stainless steel sheet on occasions.
Actually today I cut perspex with it and it was OK for what I needed.
I am also wondering if there is a kit to install a roller guide.
Currently, my bandsaw only has friction guides and a rear roller bearing and I'm sure I could improve its performance with side rollers as well.
ANY SHARING OF KNOWLEDGE, EXPERIECE OR THOUGHTS WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED.
Oh, anybody knbow what length blades these Steelfast bandswas use???
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28th Nov 2021, 04:24 PM #2China
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Use a piece of string wrap it around the wheels and measure the length. Friction ( for want of a better word ) are quite usable if in good condition, you may just need to dress them, I worked at a company years ago that made up this type of guide with Tungsten faces, I was there for five years saw is still in operation same guides (18 years ), I am about to do the same to my tiny bandsaw.
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28th Nov 2021, 04:55 PM #3Senior Member
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Thanks, but just thought side bearings would help keep the blade straight better...
I measured the blade and it comes to 99 1/4".
I am assumimg it is custom made blade due to the obsolete nature of this bandsaw, so where would be a good place to look in Perth.???
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28th Nov 2021, 05:32 PM #4Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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- Feb 2006
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Most saw doctors will make up a BS blade to suit
I get mine from https://www.alltoolsharpening.com.au in O'Connor
I get Bimetal blades as they last longer and I also get them as variable pitch (10-14 or 6-10 for thicker stuff) as they can handle a wider range of metal thicknesss
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28th Nov 2021, 06:05 PM #5Senior Member
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Thanks Bob, I'll check them out.
I have no practical experience with bandsaws so it is good to get leg up before going shopping blind...
Bob, I'm NOR but more CBD. O'Connor is still fine by me.
My wife says I should get out more.
What price range roughly are we talkig here???
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28th Nov 2021, 06:27 PM #6Senior Member
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Anybody got a Steelfast Bandsaw Manual or similar they are willing to share or post here?
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28th Nov 2021, 07:07 PM #7Senior Member
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- Jul 2007
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On my saw, which is the same, have written blade length 99.5 inches +/- 1/4 inch.
The blade guides on mine are brass which stack to account for varying blade depths, I presume they are original and seem to have lasted ok for home shop use. Alan.
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28th Nov 2021, 07:28 PM #8Senior Member
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28th Nov 2021, 08:30 PM #9Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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I think I paid $38 for a 1.6m 14TPI bimetal blade but that was some time ago
You could try Hughans
We buy our Timber Mill Band saw blades from them.
Address: 14 Hector Street, Osborne Park WA 6017, Australia
Phone: +61 8 9244 1977
I've also bought blades from Carbide Tools In Wangara. https://www.carbidetool.com.au/products/
Ask them all for a quote.
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28th Nov 2021, 08:54 PM #10Senior Member
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Great, thanks for all the good info.
I hope I can return the favour one day.
Russ.
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28th Nov 2021, 09:49 PM #11
This blade TPI / thickness cut - guide might be of assistance.
https://unitedproducts.com.au/images...ctionGuide.pdf
Grahame
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28th Nov 2021, 10:43 PM #12Senior Member
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30th Nov 2021, 04:34 AM #13Senior Member
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Hi Alan, yes that is what I have but have only recently discovered that supply of guides hidden in the lower speed change cupboard on the back of the door.
Just looking at what you have, it is different by way of only 1 guide plate each side of the blade on my unit.
I have only used my bandsaw a couple of times yet found that I was struggling to cut a straight line with ease.
It took much concentration and effort and slightly angling the plate to get a straight line to run.
So hence my comments regarding roller bearing guide upgrade request.
Boy, am I glade you posted those pic's.
Thanks,
Russ.
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5th Dec 2021, 09:45 AM #14Senior Member
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- Nov 2021
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- Australia
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Well, just for the record if anybody is interested, I've ordered additional blades and in the process of removing the existing blade which was difficult to remove as I discovered that my adjuster was seized.
It turns out rodent infestation prior to my ownership has contributed to seizing the adjuster threads.
Now the who adjuster mechanism has been removed from the bandsaw housing and I have it soaking in diesel for now.
I am hoping to be able to salvage all the existing components and not have to remake any slide shafts or threaded shafts etc...
More later.
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5th Dec 2021, 11:31 AM #15
Hi Oddbod,
Below are roller guide sets.They are of course intended for woodwork bandsaws but they can be readily adapted to a metal cutting vertical blade bandsaw.
https://www.timbecon.com.au/sherwood...ring-guide-set
Hope you are sitting down as the above one is bit exxy. The only thing against it is the rear blade guide bearing is ninety degrees out.It is bloody stupid to run it this way when the
blade would run a nut easier on the edge of the bearing.
There is no reason why you can't make your own if you have the equipment. The design lends itself to being fabricated.
The bearings on each side of the blade require eccentric turned bolts through each of the bearings.
Basically it is a hex head bolt offset in the four jaw lathe chuck - Offset could be as little as 2mm. The hole bored length ways through them will accept the fixing screw- probably a socket head to keep if compact.
This arrangement allows the bearing to cam over to bear against the moving blade.
A lathe with a four jaw chuck is best but the job is possible on a good drill press if one is careful.
The blade itself is pretty important as it must be run in properly. IF it wears on one side of the set it will pull to that side and is near impossible to keep it tracking straight from that point on.
The top wheel is adjusted until it is absolutely parallel and the outer edges flush with the bottom fixed wheel. This means the table has to be removed but I supposed its coming off if you are rebuilding the saw.
The top wheel can be shimmed to achieve parallel if needed.
Got to go for now but will come back to this.
GrahameLast edited by Grahame Collins; 5th Dec 2021 at 02:16 PM. Reason: left some stuff out.
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