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  1. #1
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    Default New 4x6 Bandsaw Stand

    I have finally started this project. Not sure how long it will take...I am deesigning it as I go...lol

    Wanted to use a Mill Stand, as they are very solid ( for a bandsaw ) and saves me making one from scratch.

    I took the Bandsaw off the base so I could turn it over and custom make the frame to fit properly, maily becuase of the the (annoying ) 5° splayed out angle on all of the sides.
    I will make bits and weld them in place as I go.

    I have had a new coolant pump for years, waiting for a new stand, so that will sit inside the stand. Might put it on wheels as well.

    First job was to grind cutouts into both ~4mm plates, so they sat down on the lip. They are that wide beacause that is how wide the plate I had was.....lol

    20211124_103040.jpg 20211124_103050.jpg 20211124_160211.jpg

    Steve

  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Default

    Maybe just check the length of the stand being able to catch all the coolant drips from the machine..

    The length needs to accomodate the drips off the back especially, wheel from the back of the main arm when its in the upright position, while on the front the drips will run along the table and drip off all over the place.
    IMG_6158.jpg

    Basically you need the drip tray as long as the base plus an extra 100 MM at teh back

    IMG_6159.jpg

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by BobL View Post
    Maybe just check the length of the stand being able to catch all the coolant drips from the machine..

    The length needs to accomodate the drips off the back especially, wheel from the back of the main arm when its in the upright position, while on the front the drips will run along the table and drip off all over the place.


    Basically you need the drip tray as long as the base plus an extra 100 MM at teh back

    Thanks for the 'heads up' Bob.
    The tray is 820mm long, I think, so it should be ok. I was hoping to have a couple of models to choose from but alas, there was only one.....

    Steve

  4. #4
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    If it is too short you can alway s fit an "outrigger splash shield" (A piece of sheet metal or plastic clamped on the side of the stand on a bit of a slope so the drips run back into the tray)

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Default

    These bandsaw topics come up quite frequently.

    Something that no one has mentioned this time around is the position of the rear wheels.

    Speaking for the BS-4 basic type remember the model has a tendency to flip over backwards under certain circumstances.

    When the unit is wheeled around with the arm vertical its possible to tip it backwards because the weight of the motor and gearbox is rear of the axle.

    Sometimes when the saw tips over this way it does severe damage to the motor.

    It can be avoided by moving the wheels back on the frame. I had a few close calls with the original sheet metal stand hence I made a new frame to accommodate

    the re positioning of the wheels.

    Grahame

  6. #6
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    Will keep that in mind Grahame.
    The stand weighs about 30 kg and the wheel mounts are right in the corners, but I will mock it up and do some testing before I weld fully.

    Working on the mounting tabs now. The healthy plate thickness I chose is partially blocking the existing holes in the base....lol More magic required.....

    20211126_150044.jpg

    Base will be raised about 100mm higher than in this pic. ( So I can clean swarf from underneath. )

    Steve

  7. #7
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    Hi Steve, Guys,

    Looks like a nice stand, well worth of putting some castors on !

    When I made my stand I used short stubs of square tube welded to the frame !

    I would suggest that you remove those thick plates and do the same.

    Bandsaw stand-01.jpg 20-09-2019_004.JPG 03-08-2019x001.jpg

    I've placed a drawing of the stand that I made and a picture of the pieces of square tube, off cuts from the stand material, welded onto the frame. In your case you would have to drill a hole through for the mounting bolt. I would cut the posts to the length you want, drill them and bolt them to the bandsaw and then place the whole lot on your stand marking where they need to be welded on.

    That last picture is the part of the damage done when the saw falls over backwards. In my case the motor had been replaced with a 1Hp brooks one.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  8. #8
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    Thanks John,
    I'm a bit OCD....I don't like the thought I bolting through a square tube like that, as they will tend to crush.( I know it doesn't have to be that tight....lol ) I would have to fit a 'spool'(?) it each stub so it wouldn't crush and that is more work.

    I will see how my plan pans out. I'm going to cut out small tabs, drill and tap them, fit them to the base ,make cutouts in the bases to accomodate them, then weld them in place.....bulletproof...lol

    Both ways are a bit of works. We can thanm the Chinese for making the cast base sides angled 5° instead of being vertical...lol

    Steve

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Thanks John,
    I'm a bit OCD....I don't like the thought I bolting through a square tube like that, as they will tend to crush.( I know it doesn't have to be that tight....lol ) I would have to fit a 'spool'(?) it each stub so it wouldn't crush and that is more work.

    I will see how my plan pans out. I'm going to cut out small tabs, drill and tap them, fit them to the base ,make cutouts in the bases to accommodate them, then weld them in place.....bulletproof...lol

    Both ways are a bit of works. We can than the Chinese for making the cast base sides angled 5° instead of being vertical...lol

    Steve
    Hi Steve,

    Yes note that mine are very short pieces of tube laid flat, so the bolt goes through the tube lengthwise ! That 5° degrees is a nuisance. If you do decide to use a tube pillar a cap welded on top would stop it crushing. Mind you, pieces of flat bar would do the same job.

    If your cabinet stand is anything like the one that my mill is stood on, there are four threaded holes that you could take advantage of. You would have to fill them anyway, particularly if you are going to run coolant !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  10. #10
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    Yep, I plan in using the exisiting holes to minimise leaks. They have a raised lip so I will keep that.

    A bit more progress today. Not much as it was too hot.

    Steve

    20211127_145242.jpg 20211127_174934.jpg

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sterob View Post
    Both ways are a bit of works. We can thanm the Chinese for making the cast base sides angled 5° instead of being vertical...lol
    Sort of!
    The Taiwanese provided the original model- the Rong Fu base model was the model- which was copied by you know who.

    The 5 degrees is there to allow coping of the casting mould.

    Grahame

  12. #12
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    I welded the base plates today and cut out the four legs.
    Decided to cant the legs at 20° instead of 5° mainly for asthetics.
    Was a bit tricky cuting at 20° on my drop saw as the scale only went to 15° on the opposite side..grrr
    Had to remove one of the clamping bolts to get more angle.

    Steve

    20211203_112608.jpg 20211203_154113.jpg

  13. #13
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    I found some flat bar and drilled the holes to clear the mounting hole lips.
    Was worried about accuracy but it went well.

    20211206_120022.jpg 20211206_120029.jpg

  14. #14
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    Hi Steve,

    I would put a bead of silicon around the plate to prevent any coolant getting down there !
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  15. #15
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    Default

    Tacked the legs in place to see how it all lines up. Looks pretty good.
    As per comments, I have moved the saw forward so the tray catches the drips at the back, as well as not tip over when raise. ( I hope)

    20211208_083238.jpg


    20211208_083248.jpg

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