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Thread: New 4x6 Bandsaw Stand
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24th Nov 2021, 11:22 PM #1Diamond Member
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New 4x6 Bandsaw Stand
I have finally started this project. Not sure how long it will take...I am deesigning it as I go...lol
Wanted to use a Mill Stand, as they are very solid ( for a bandsaw ) and saves me making one from scratch.
I took the Bandsaw off the base so I could turn it over and custom make the frame to fit properly, maily becuase of the the (annoying ) 5° splayed out angle on all of the sides.
I will make bits and weld them in place as I go.
I have had a new coolant pump for years, waiting for a new stand, so that will sit inside the stand. Might put it on wheels as well.
First job was to grind cutouts into both ~4mm plates, so they sat down on the lip. They are that wide beacause that is how wide the plate I had was.....lol
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Steve
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24th Nov 2021, 11:41 PM #2Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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Maybe just check the length of the stand being able to catch all the coolant drips from the machine..
The length needs to accomodate the drips off the back especially, wheel from the back of the main arm when its in the upright position, while on the front the drips will run along the table and drip off all over the place.
IMG_6158.jpg
Basically you need the drip tray as long as the base plus an extra 100 MM at teh back
IMG_6159.jpg
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25th Nov 2021, 10:53 AM #3Diamond Member
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25th Nov 2021, 04:43 PM #4Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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If it is too short you can alway s fit an "outrigger splash shield" (A piece of sheet metal or plastic clamped on the side of the stand on a bit of a slope so the drips run back into the tray)
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26th Nov 2021, 02:53 PM #5
These bandsaw topics come up quite frequently.
Something that no one has mentioned this time around is the position of the rear wheels.
Speaking for the BS-4 basic type remember the model has a tendency to flip over backwards under certain circumstances.
When the unit is wheeled around with the arm vertical its possible to tip it backwards because the weight of the motor and gearbox is rear of the axle.
Sometimes when the saw tips over this way it does severe damage to the motor.
It can be avoided by moving the wheels back on the frame. I had a few close calls with the original sheet metal stand hence I made a new frame to accommodate
the re positioning of the wheels.
Grahame
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26th Nov 2021, 06:55 PM #6Diamond Member
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Will keep that in mind Grahame.
The stand weighs about 30 kg and the wheel mounts are right in the corners, but I will mock it up and do some testing before I weld fully.
Working on the mounting tabs now. The healthy plate thickness I chose is partially blocking the existing holes in the base....lol More magic required.....
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Base will be raised about 100mm higher than in this pic. ( So I can clean swarf from underneath. )
Steve
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26th Nov 2021, 08:42 PM #7
Hi Steve, Guys,
Looks like a nice stand, well worth of putting some castors on !
When I made my stand I used short stubs of square tube welded to the frame !
I would suggest that you remove those thick plates and do the same.
Bandsaw stand-01.jpg 20-09-2019_004.JPG 03-08-2019x001.jpg
I've placed a drawing of the stand that I made and a picture of the pieces of square tube, off cuts from the stand material, welded onto the frame. In your case you would have to drill a hole through for the mounting bolt. I would cut the posts to the length you want, drill them and bolt them to the bandsaw and then place the whole lot on your stand marking where they need to be welded on.
That last picture is the part of the damage done when the saw falls over backwards. In my case the motor had been replaced with a 1Hp brooks one.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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27th Nov 2021, 01:32 PM #8Diamond Member
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Thanks John,
I'm a bit OCD....I don't like the thought I bolting through a square tube like that, as they will tend to crush.( I know it doesn't have to be that tight....lol ) I would have to fit a 'spool'(?) it each stub so it wouldn't crush and that is more work.
I will see how my plan pans out. I'm going to cut out small tabs, drill and tap them, fit them to the base ,make cutouts in the bases to accomodate them, then weld them in place.....bulletproof...lol
Both ways are a bit of works. We can thanm the Chinese for making the cast base sides angled 5° instead of being vertical...lol
Steve
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27th Nov 2021, 07:39 PM #9
Hi Steve,
Yes note that mine are very short pieces of tube laid flat, so the bolt goes through the tube lengthwise ! That 5° degrees is a nuisance. If you do decide to use a tube pillar a cap welded on top would stop it crushing. Mind you, pieces of flat bar would do the same job.
If your cabinet stand is anything like the one that my mill is stood on, there are four threaded holes that you could take advantage of. You would have to fill them anyway, particularly if you are going to run coolant !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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27th Nov 2021, 11:56 PM #10Diamond Member
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Yep, I plan in using the exisiting holes to minimise leaks. They have a raised lip so I will keep that.
A bit more progress today. Not much as it was too hot.
Steve
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3rd Dec 2021, 07:11 AM #11
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3rd Dec 2021, 07:00 PM #12Diamond Member
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I welded the base plates today and cut out the four legs.
Decided to cant the legs at 20° instead of 5° mainly for asthetics.
Was a bit tricky cuting at 20° on my drop saw as the scale only went to 15° on the opposite side..grrr
Had to remove one of the clamping bolts to get more angle.
Steve
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6th Dec 2021, 09:29 PM #13Diamond Member
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I found some flat bar and drilled the holes to clear the mounting hole lips.
Was worried about accuracy but it went well.
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6th Dec 2021, 10:57 PM #14
Hi Steve,
I would put a bead of silicon around the plate to prevent any coolant getting down there !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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8th Dec 2021, 11:56 AM #15Diamond Member
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Tacked the legs in place to see how it all lines up. Looks pretty good.
As per comments, I have moved the saw forward so the tray catches the drips at the back, as well as not tip over when raise. ( I hope)
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