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  1. #1
    smidsy is offline 21 with 19 years experience
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Queensland
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    53
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    52

    Default Low End Band Saws

    I'm looking at doing a project which will require some accurate cuts in 50x50x3mm RHS at 45 and 22.5 degrees.
    As much as I would love a swivel head machine, I'm a pensioner and those machines are just beyond my budget.

    I have my eye on the basic B002 machine from Hare & Forbes, the vertical capability also appeals to me.
    Has anyone got this machine, I know you get what you pay for but it is capable of doing what I need.
    Also, is it worth getting a jug of cutting fluid and wetting the blade with a squirt bottle - I plan on babying the machine anyway, slow speed and easy cuts.
    Cheers
    Smidsy

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B002

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
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    59
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    6,540

    Default

    One of those cheap bandsaws is something that most on the forum have not had much trouble with. They are usually reliable and do the job well. Not sure how vertical the cut will be (you might have to do some shimming), but for your 45 and 22 1/2 cuts it might be worth making up some slippers to kick the stock around rather than try and adjust the jaws.

    Michael

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    229

    Default

    I have the low end mitre saw. I don't know if you're missing out on too much. It's convenient in theory but I find it frustrating as any time you change anything it seems to lose all its dialled-in-ness esp. at 45 degrees. And spending half an hour doing test cuts has worn thin so I just accept it doesn't cut totally square and dress it up by hand if it matters.

    I've never even thought of using coolant. Can't see the point unless you like a mess. If you get decent blades they last a long time. All of mine eventually fail due to fatigue.

    I have used mine vertically a few times. Generally only when rough cutting and I have no other option. It is very crude, not very controllable and feels like one slip up could be costly. It can be useful but I wouldn't get too excited.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
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    6,436

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    I'm looking at doing a project which will require some accurate cuts in 50x50x3mm RHS at 45 and 22.5 degrees.
    As much as I would love a swivel head machine, I'm a pensioner and those machines are just beyond my budget.

    I have my eye on the basic B002 machine from Hare & Forbes, the vertical capability also appeals to me.
    Has anyone got this machine, I know you get what you pay for but it is capable of doing what I need.
    Also, is it worth getting a jug of cutting fluid and wetting the blade with a squirt bottle - I plan on babying the machine anyway, slow speed and easy cuts.
    Cheers
    Smidsy

    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/B002
    That saw is essentially the same as mine, except that I don't have a swivel jaw vise ! You will need to spend some time setting it up properly but its well worth it. I get dead vertical cuts as near as I can measure with a square and horizontal cuts within a few thou. Like others have mentioned I also use a wood block to set cut angles. A screw in the end stops it being squeezed out of the vise jaws.

    EDIT: Based on 2$ to the £ that saw is half the UK price.
    Last edited by BaronJ; 9th Nov 2021 at 08:11 PM. Reason: Added info.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Mackay North Qld
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    6,446

    Default

    Hi Smidsy,

    The BS4 and its generic mates are the the same machines which other MetalWork members and myself own. Mine is 10 years old. There are still good second hand machines like the original Rung - Fu which can be picked up in the big cities.

    Its the base model and can do the job that you want it to do. The thing to remember is that the new machine will need some tweeking.

    A BiMetal blade is certainly the first accessory, the standard ones not being much chop, in my opinion.

    However as good as the blade may be its useless without the blade being aligned horizontally and vertically.

    With a new bimetal blade, a good initial "run in" for the blade and the above mentioned alignment the BS4 can be made to cut beautifully.


    There are stacks of past posts about the purchase and fettling of these bandsaws. As well our BS4 and Rung Fu owners will have lots of information for you.

    Grahame

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
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    71
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    5,942

    Default

    One of the first things I'd do after setting it up, is to make a decent stand for it. The sheet metal design is VERY flimsy, the wheel kit supplied isn't much better. I've had 3 over the years, the previous 2 were sold with my business, the other I've had for over 20 years, with no problems apart from the belts wearing out and blades of course. As someone suggested get the Bi-metal ones, they last a long time, and don't require coolant, which creates a MESS.
    In regards to your cutting of angles, I made a few angle blocks out of 50X6 Flat bar, the main one I use is the 45 degree, spend some time making a good one, and it will last a long time.
    I also welded a 12mm nut to the long edge of mine so that I could use a stop rod on it so that all the pieces will be the same length, another thing I did initially, was to leave the side by the blade a bit longer so that the blade cut the angle piece and gave me an accurate point to line up with where I wanted the cut.
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Newcastle
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    229

    Default

    I need to do some research. Horizontal it cuts spot on. Vertical typically one edge good and the other curves away a little to a random extent. I've always put my variability down to it being a budget bit of gear but if something can be done....

    Also, for blades I've always had local saw guys make bimetal blades up to suit. I mostly cut thin-ish hollow sections which seems tough on the teeth but I still get a year or two out of them. At $40 each there isn't much incentive to baby them.

    I also built my own stand as suggested above, with decent castors. I don't even think I bothered to put the stock stand together.

  8. #8
    smidsy is offline 21 with 19 years experience
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sunshine Coast Queensland
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    53
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    Default

    Thanks for all the advice guys, your time is much appreciated.
    The bi-metal blades everyone speaks of, where's the best place to get them from - Hare & Forbes only have them in 2035mm and larger.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    1,536

    Default

    I use Excision or Rontgen blades in mine, plenty of suppliers for both in just about every state.
    Having said that, I have also run Chinese carbon steel blades with equal life and cut quality.

    Bi-metal is marketing spin for we are saving money by attaching hard cutting teeth to a softer backer.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Location
    Laidley, SE Qld
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    1,038

    Default

    I buy my bandsaw blades 2 or 3 at a time via the post from Austech at Nerang https://austechsaw.com.au. 12.7mm 6/10 tpi bimetal. I get mine at 1645mm long which I think is a stock item for Austech but they will make custom lengths.

    Re making a stand to replace the flimsy stand bandsaws typically come with - I didn't.
    What I did do was make a wheeled frame for it to stand on and bolted the feet of the flimsy stand to the frame. The stand instantly became rock solid, capable of supporting 100kg of steel without a murmur. Serendipity.

    As has been said, many of the low end band saws are a kit that needs to fettled to get it to cut true, there are discussions on here about that subject.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by smidsy View Post
    Thanks for all the advice guys, your time is much appreciated.

    The bi-metal blades everyone speaks of, where's the best place to get them from - Hare & Forbes only have them in 2035mm and larger.
    Hare and Forbes in my opinion don't have the range of tpi which you can selected from.

    For instance if you are cutting SHS and RHS with thin wall you need the finest pitch.Thats the material I mostly I cut mostly and use 10/18 staggered pitch to good effect. 24 TPI as well on the 1.6 thickness SHS and RHS.

    This Queensland company has wide selection down to 24TPI.Well worth the phone call

    https://unitedproducts.com.au/index....tal-size-table

    Grahame

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Location
    Sydney
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    505

    Default

    I have a little BS 5V portable bandsaw from Hafco and was surprised to discover that their pricing for vari tooth bi-metal blades to suit the 5V is about 70% or less than what others charge for the same blade spec.
    Quite possibly blades from other bandsaw blade suppliers are better in some way, though you would think Starrett (as supplied by H&F in Sydney) would be OK.
    BS-5V bandsaw.jpg
    Other than H&F the best pricing I found for suitable bi-metal blades was Henry Bros in Vineyard NSW Henry Bros Saws - Bandsaw blades & circular saw blades (I have no connection other than as a potential customer). When I phoned for advice on selection the guy on the other end was very helpful.

    Bill

  13. #13
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    Mackay North Qld
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    Default

    Guys,
    Attached is the BS blade guide selection chart link that I meant to put up the first time.

    https://unitedproducts.com.au/images...ctionGuide.pdf

    They have 24 TPI pitch blades but they are not on the chart. Just the thing for cutting 1.6mm wall thickness.

    No affiliation - just a happy customer

    Grahame

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