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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Post Buying a mill.....Metex DM45

    I am gonna bite the bullet and purchase a Geared Head Milling Machine METEX DM45 240v Drilling Mill MT4 or R8 Spindle


    https://redfoxmachinery.com.au/produ...-r8-spindle-2/

    It will be R8 as I don't have to much tooling in MT anyway.


    I am looking at buying the aforementioned mill with a few extras....mainly a vice...125mm.

    https://redfoxmachinery.com.au/produ...quality-4-5-6/

    A rotary table with the associated dividing plates

    https://redfoxmachinery.com.au/produ...able-for-sale/

    And a clamping kit with 14mm T nuts

    https://redfoxmachinery.com.au/produ...16-mill-drill/

    With shipping included for me to pick it up at the depot near to where I live is setting me back just over $4700.00
    That will nearly clean out my machinist account...…for now.
    I realise I could save a little bit by going Ebay for the peripherals but buying it from the same place is just more convenient. I haven't heard to many bad things about this company as searching it on this forum only seems to show bad things about the big retailer of mills which is normal.
    I will still need to get extra bits for the mill which I will shop around for but this is the main purchase and it is a start.
    Just a few things.
    I am a hobby machinist only. I am not looking to make money with this or turn out multiples of the same part.
    I don't have the skills or the contacts to take on an older mill with the idea of refurbishing or doing it up.
    This is my first time having or using a mill and you may let rip with comments about how I should start to walk before I can run however I need to start somewhere and I feel this mill will be heavy enough and rigid enough to start learning on. I do appreciate a few helpful tips

    Sorry for the way my post is written but I am looking for advice on what I believe to be one of the best forums for metal working here in AUS and wish to make clear my position a little bit.

    Thank you for reading my confused post.
    Regards Peter.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    Sounds good, if your mind is set and you have the money go for it.

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
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  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    102

    Default

    Just popping my head in,because I really want a mill,and am interested to see what others do.

    Cheers Matt.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    sydney ( st marys )
    Age
    64
    Posts
    4,887

    Default

    You may need to look at purchasing a collet chuck and collets, probably ER32, a few end mills and slot drills, 1 or 2 carbide face mills, down the track power feed.
    Were you able to get anything thrown in or have you had to pay for everything?

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Southern Flinders Ranges
    Posts
    1,536

    Default

    The R8 is a sensible choice. I have MT3 in my 45 size mill and every time I pick up the hammer to belt the draw bar I contemplate how much less first world grief my life would have if the mill had an R8 or 30 spindle.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    You may need to look at purchasing a collet chuck and collets, probably ER32, a few end mills and slot drills, 1 or 2 carbide face mills, down the track power feed.
    Were you able to get anything thrown in or have you had to pay for everything?
    Still in the negotiation stage. I kinda wanted to get some ideas from likeminded people before I commit.
    I am happy to buy but in the back of my head is always *THOSE* thoughts....is it the right decision? or am I buying a lemon?
    I will definitely hit him up for said freebies or discount!
    As for extra sundries I will be Ebaying or Banggooding it! I know they are hit or miss but for the price you take a chance.
    Thanks!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    The R8 is a sensible choice. I have MT3 in my 45 size mill and every time I pick up the hammer to belt the draw bar I contemplate how much less first world grief my life would have if the mill had an R8 or 30 spindle.
    I was gonna go with MT4 but when I found out that R8 is designed with mills and easy removal in mind it was a no brainer.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Dave J View Post
    Sounds good, if your mind is set and you have the money go for it.

    Sent from my 5007U using Tapatalk
    Thank you for that. you must spend a bit of time here going by your post count so that means a lot.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Age
    56
    Posts
    1,416

    Default

    I left and came back and lost around 7000 plus posts, unless they have combined these days, I really haven't looked.

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  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
    Location
    Burleigh heads QLD
    Age
    29
    Posts
    114

    Default

    R8 is better than a MT spindle but one think to keep in mind is that r8 still needs a lot of Z height to change tools as it has such a long straight shank. This can get old fast as you are often cranking the Z for clearance or traversing the x to clear the job/your vice when swapping tools. I would personally prefer a 30 taper if given the chance over an R8 but for hobby work you probably wouldn't notice. after selling a few machines all my Mills and my small HBM all have 40 taper spindles with only one having a captive drawbar mill (NTMB40 which is 5/8" drawbar thread) so aside from the latter any tooling I purchase can be used in any of the Mills. should you later upgrade to a knee mill it would be in your interest to purchase one that takes the same tooling as what ever you pick for your first mill. I only say this because selling Tooling and change Toolholder styles will cost you a bit

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    The R8 is a sensible choice. I have MT3 in my 45 size mill and every time I pick up the hammer to belt the draw bar I contemplate how much less first world grief my life would have if the mill had an R8 or 30 spindle.

    I'm in the same boat....

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Australind , WA
    Age
    58
    Posts
    1,277

    Default

    I bought a similar machine a few years ago from H&F. I just do the basic stuff.
    If I had my time again, I would get a power feed, head raising/lowering motor and a keyless chuck instead of what I got with it.

    Cranking those handles get old real quick. I made mine as funds were tight but that takes ALOT of time....
    Just sayin'....

    Steve

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Newcastle
    Posts
    229

    Default

    I'm pretty much in the same boat as some others here. Window shopping with no real projects in mind but I know I'd find plenty of jobs for it. Plus totally uncertain about what type of machine to buy into (old, new, cheap Asian etc) or what size, features or level of accuracy.

    So threads like this are really interesting.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Before I bought my first mill, I considered one of the Metex 45 mills. I went and looked at one in the flesh.

    I can't guarantee what yours will be like but the one I looked at certainly seemed to have quality above those offered by H&F.

    It looked and felt reasonably good. They were about $2500 back then with only the basics included such as 13mm drill chuck etc.

    Never used an R8 system but any system that has a captive drawbar and does not require you to bash the tooling out is much better. So for that reason I would go for R8 over MT3.

    My first mill has a MT4 and I grew to hate it! Now I have NT40 and it's a dream.

    Good luck

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Bundaberg QLD
    Posts
    42

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by marcuschrist View Post
    R8 is better than a MT spindle but one think to keep in mind is that r8 still needs a lot of Z height to change tools as it has such a long straight shank. This can get old fast as you are often cranking the Z for clearance or traversing the x to clear the job/your vice when swapping tools. I would personally prefer a 30 taper if given the chance over an R8 but for hobby work you probably wouldn't notice. after selling a few machines all my Mills and my small HBM all have 40 taper spindles with only one having a captive drawbar mill (NTMB40 which is 5/8" drawbar thread) so aside from the latter any tooling I purchase can be used in any of the Mills. should you later upgrade to a knee mill it would be in your interest to purchase one that takes the same tooling as what ever you pick for your first mill. I only say this because selling Tooling and change Toolholder styles will cost you a bit
    The beauty of this mill for me is the ability to tinker and improve the mill over time and custom fit to the mill. I had not considered the length of R8 in my equations but between R8 and MT4 I will go with the popular vote and go R8.

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