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  1. #91
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    It's a very satisfying feeling when you produce a top quality item.

    Nice work!

    Simon

    Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

  2. #92
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    Sep 2009
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    Sydney
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    My letter and number stamps came in so I set about ruining all my hard work Clough42 Electronic Leadscrew Implementation

    I got 4mm but in hindsight I could have gone down to 3mm, but they definitely work.

    I made a jig from some old Alu bracket and chopping board:



    I used the mill to cut out the slot and ensure the hole for the dial was aligned. Big numbers and I wouldn’t want them any bigger but nicely aligned and easy enough to read:


  3. #93
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Revesby - Sydney Australia
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    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    Given I was threading metric I was running the lathe in reverse to get back to the beginning and kept the half nuts engaged the whole time

    That is always the safest way to thread, especially if you don't have a thread indicator, or it doesn't match what you are cutting, but...


    I'm wondering if there is now some electronic way that you could move the carriage back the exact amount??

    i.e. With the spindle stopped;
    1. you hit a "back 1" button to go back one thread peak each press (less the initial lead screw backlash).
    2. After several presses, you get to the cut starting position,
    3. maybe go a few thread distances beyond the start,
    4. then press the "forward 1" button a few times to take up the backlash,
    5. then wind your cross feed in for your next cut depth, and you are ready to start the cut !

  4. #94
    Join Date
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    That method seems to have merit if you had plenty of time, otherwise they call another method cnc.

  5. #95
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    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by pipeclay View Post
    That method seems to have merit if you had plenty of time, otherwise they call another method cnc.

    Heh !


    • With fears of unwinding the chuck from the spindle,
    my Hercus doesn't currently have a reverse switch,
    so I have to wind it back manually when threading.
    Pressing a button multiple times would be faster for me than pushing the chuck around multiple times

    • If the button had auto-repeat, pressing a button to reverse the carriage position could be just as fast as reversing the spindle ?




    Speaking of CNC;

    1- the TI board probably has plenty of IO and horsepower to also drive a motor on the cross feed?
    It might be nice to have simple taper or radius automation!

    2- I was thinking about larger manual lathes, that have seperate feed shafts for threading and auto feeding.
    If you could somehow engage one for carriage position at the same time as using the other for cross feed,
    that would be a nice neat way to drive two axes – two motors beside each other, hanging off the end of the feed shafts.

  6. #96
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    If there is fear of your chuck unscrewing when running in reverse for threading , I would be seriously looking at the installation procedure/ fitting of the chuck .

  7. #97
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    Sep 2009
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    @nigelpearson auto metric threading is one of the future software considerations, so that would be an awesome addition.

    I do have reverse on my lathe but only for this reason. Only ever had to use it once and that was this 1.0mm thread.

    I do have a threading dial but clearly with an imperial leadscrew that’s no use.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Aug 2019
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    Quote Originally Posted by neevo View Post
    I do have a threading dial but clearly with an imperial leadscrew that’s no use.

    Limited use, but possible.

    In fact, either a thread dial with a ruler, a carriage stop, or a dial indicator is theoretically useable.



    For right hand threading (toward the chuck), you;

    1) Move the carriage to the starting position, gently engage the half nuts while turning the carriage handle/wheel to the right, to take up the backlash.

    2) Set the stop/DI on the right hand side of the carriage,
    or use a ruler (from say the tailstock) and note the thread dial number.

    3) Note the rotational position of the spindle. (e.g. jaw 3 level)



    Then, repeat this for each pass;

    a) Do a thread cutting pass, stop the spindle and rotate it to your index position, wind cross feed clear.

    b) Dis-engage the half nuts and wind carriage nearly to starting position.

    c) Engage half nuts, and crank carriage handle/wheel to the right to either hit the stop, zero the DI,
    or align to the ruler measurement and thread dial number.

    d) Wind cross feed in for next pass



    Lots of steps, though. Easy to stuff up
    Last edited by nigelpearson; 12th Oct 2021 at 05:47 PM. Reason: forgot to mention spindle indexing

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