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25th Sep 2021, 07:25 PM #46
Hi Neevo,
Thanks for the pictures.
That's looking nice, even better when calibrated.
A careful use of a curved wood router bit in the mill will sort those sharp corners. When I rounded the corners of my Norman Tool holder block that is what I used. About 1200 rpm and small doc, say 10 thou until you get a feel for the way its cutting. If its a 1/4" inch shaft on the cutter, just be careful not to bend it ! A 1/2" shaft one is much better but more expensive if you have to buy one. Still much cheaper than a HSS milling cutter.Best Regards:
Baron J.
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25th Sep 2021, 07:50 PM #47Golden Member
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Baron is that reco for the edges of the block? I assume yes and not for cutting my bit radius on the front?
I have some round over bits that I could use, but they’re pretty dull. Might stump up and just buy a proper cutter. I could do with a chamfer tool anyway.
My plan for the big front radius was to do it on the rotary table. I assume that would work.
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25th Sep 2021, 07:57 PM #48
Hi Neevo,
I would use a router bit for any edge that would benefit from rounding !
As far as dull bits is concerned, I touch mine up with a Diamond hone on the flat face only ! You really need a diamond wheel on a TCG to do the curved face. Surprisingly non of the ones that I've used have chipped so I might have been lucky !Best Regards:
Baron J.
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25th Sep 2021, 08:01 PM #49Golden Member
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Good to know! I’ve done it on Alu but never on steel. I suppose they’re carbide tipped, so as long as you don’t bend the shaft it should be ok.
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25th Sep 2021, 08:08 PM #50
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26th Sep 2021, 03:28 PM #51Diamond Member
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If you aren't game to try the router, cut a bevel with the bandsaw, and linish or file it round?
If you blue the block, and it turns out as well as the bolts, this will be a nice looking tool !
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26th Sep 2021, 04:52 PM #52Golden Member
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That’s the plan, wire wheel it and blue it too. I’ve done loads today and run out of photo uploads on Tapatalk so I’ll have to figure out how to do it on the website.
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26th Sep 2021, 05:53 PM #53Golden Member
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- Sep 2009
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- Sydney
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Clough42 Electronic Leadscrew Implementation
I had a good day in the shed today, massive thanks to my wife who is happy to let me take the dog in there and make loads of noise and mess!
First job of the day was to unpack the rotary table, remove the hand wheel and put on the dividing plates. I’ve never used it before so I was excited and nervous:
My plan was to divide the dial on the mill and engrave or cut a line for the gradations. That would mean I needed a cutter, no problem, I happen to be an expert and turning centre drills in to HSS cutter stock. So I put it in the drill and ground a sharp point on it with a flat on the front:
Then I discovered that my rotary table could use my lathe chuck as it fit the centre hole, result. I used the M8x1.0 tap as an arbour:
I did a dry run to make sure I had it right (make that 3 dry runs) and I was finally ready to cut some lines. I did 7mm for the 0.1mm marks, 5mm for the 0.05mm marks and 3mm for the 0.01mm marks. Halfway round I discovered that the arbor was no completely centred however I was able to compensate by adding a bit more z depth:
It’s very nerve wracking when you have a bit of time in a part and could ruin it with getting the gradations wrong but I’m really happy to say that for my first time I got it bang on!!!!
I do want to try and make the line stand out. So I’m thinking of trying to get a black contrast colour in the cuts.
I then cut the rounded ends on the upper part and left a small uncut section on the top that would let me also cut in a corresponding mark to align the dial. This one I want to try and fill with a white colour:
So that pretty much makes the top section done. Just need to make the rod which I want to do on the lathe with the ELS, so I can get a really snug 1.0mm thread.
The feel on the dial is really good but I saw another person on YouTube add a ball bearing and spring to remove any slop, so I did that.
It not only stops any slop but it also puts a tiny bit of resistance on the wheel so I doesn’t move once you’ve set it, very lucky result as the wheel feels amazing now.
The final thing to do on the top was to make a set screw to run in the key way on the rod (once I make it). I made a fixture to allow me to turn it down on the lathe:
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26th Sep 2021, 05:58 PM #54Golden Member
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Clough42 Electronic Leadscrew Implementation
Here it is inside the left hand hole. I made it 3.5mm and will hopefully be able to mill out the key way on the mill with a 3mm cutter and step over 0.25mm:
Then I set about making the base. Uneventful but here it is. I’d like to say the added holes on the front are to let me fixture other things to the stop, but I got the hole spacing wrong, so let’s just say they’re a feature
Here it is mounted on the lathe. It’s a perfect fit and locks solid. The old bolt is not the correct thread but is there as a demo.
So I just need some guidance on what I can fill the gradations on the wheel with. After a black contrast if possible. Shoe polish? Wax? Sharpie? Crayon? Nail polish
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26th Sep 2021, 06:53 PM #55Senior Member
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Nevo, fantastic job there. To fill engraved areas I use an engravers wax filler / crayon, its quite resistant to wear, smear it over the surface, let it dry and rub off, a little white spirits on a rag helps. Not sure how well it stands up to cutting fluids though. Not sure where to buy as mine came in a batch lot. Alan.
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26th Sep 2021, 06:55 PM #56Most Valued Member
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You could oil blacken the part and then emery it back, leaving only black in the scribbed grooves.
I also agree, it can get really nerve wracking when you have several hours invested in a part and your doing something on it that requires concentration in order not to bin it!
Simon
Sent from my SM-G970F using TapatalkGirl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.
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26th Sep 2021, 07:45 PM #57Golden Member
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That was me making the graduations. Rotate dividing arm clockwise, move fingers on dividing plate, check which line I should be doing, panic as I do the line, double check and see if it’s 3mm or other, back to the dividing plate, panic again when I cannot remember which way I’m turning the arm, panic again when I forget which length line I’m making
Luckily the dividing plates are actually very simple to use if you just keep the process the same.
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26th Sep 2021, 08:03 PM #58Most Valued Member
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Great to see someone got things right. Everything I touched today turned bad. Just one of those days.
Nev.
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26th Sep 2021, 08:33 PM #59Golden Member
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26th Sep 2021, 08:59 PM #60Most Valued Member
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