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18th Jul 2021, 05:31 PM #1Diamond Member
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How to remove rusty 10mm bolts from Timber upright posts
Hi Guys, I have another hard one for you to ponder, if you will....Seems I alwys get these....
Our verandah stirrups are corroded and need replacing.
The old 10mm , 120mm long bolts are stuck fast in the timber and I cannot budge them. Trouble is.... I WANT TO.
I want to fit new 12mm bolts in the same holes in order to secure the new stirrups.
I don't really want to rotate the stirrups 90° as they will look funny.....I have to concrete them in when done. I have 14 to do.....
Things I have tried:
Tried drifting the bolts out: fail
Prying the bolt heads up: bruised timber and fail.
Soaking in Inox ( didn't really think it would help in wood, but did it anyway ) fail
Made up a heavy duty puller to try and push the bolts out. ( centre drilled the bolts to stop puller from slipping and used a G clamp to stop puller from spreading) fail
Bought some Screw Extractors to try and Core Drill arond the bolts- too small ) fail
Buy a 12 or 13mm hole saw to do same thing: Can't find any smaller than 16 mm : fail
I could replace all the uprights but they would have to be done-one at at a time, as each stirrup was replaced......not fun. Posts are in ok condition although 30 years old.
Last ideas:
1.Use a slide hammer on the heads IF I could get them raise enough to get a claw under then ( Not likely at this stage. )
2. Make a custom Hole Saw. (without a centre drill)OD 13mm.
Wall thinkness would need to be less than 1.5 mm and be quite hard and at least 60mm cutting depth or 100mm to core all the way though.
How? Buy some tube? I bit thin to machine?
steel or stainless steel?
Could a saw Dr cut the teeth for me? Too hard to cut by hand?
Assume it would need Hardening after?
Sigh.....
Steve
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18th Jul 2021, 05:45 PM #2Gear expert in training
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Drill/grind the cap head off and punch through from that end?
Gear cutting specialists and general engineers www.hardmanbros.com.au
Fine pitch gear cutting from 0.1 Module www.rigear.com.au
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18th Jul 2021, 06:16 PM #3Senior Member
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Longer stirrups and cut the bottom of the posts off?
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18th Jul 2021, 06:48 PM #4Diamond Member
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Can you make an attachment that can utilise a bottle jack and press them out?
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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18th Jul 2021, 06:51 PM #5
I know of others that have bolts corroded into timber that have been able to release them with a home made mild steel 'holesaw' made from steel tube with a bore slightly larger than the bolt diameter, using the bolt itself as the pilot. Ends up with a slightly larger hole through the timber, but you want to stop up 2mm with your new bolts anyway. Fairly simple to cut about 4 teeth into the end of the tube to do the cutting, should be able to get one or two bolts released before you cut the end off the tube and repoint it, a 200mm length of tube should do a fair few bolts before being discarded, you are only shaving out the rust layer between the bolt and the timber. Seems to be common for people reclaiming bridge/wharf timbers.
No guarantees, but worth a try if you can access some scrap tube of suitable size.I used to be an engineer, I'm not an engineer any more, but on the really good days I can remember when I was.
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18th Jul 2021, 06:56 PM #6Most Valued Member
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You could make a frame that has one side bolted on, so that access is possible and use a hydraulic jack with an 8 or 9mm diameter pin, fitted to a piece of pipe so that the pin is central to the shaft of the jack, effectively making it a hydraulic press.
Make sure that the other side of the bolt can be pushed through the plate.
HTH
KrynTo grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.
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18th Jul 2021, 07:24 PM #7Most Valued Member
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I would go with the home made holesaw. Even if you made it 16mm OD you could sleeve the posts.
Nev.
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18th Jul 2021, 08:11 PM #8Diamond Member
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Thanks guys.
elanjacobs: Not sure that would work if it wouldn't move from the other direction.
I also was going to try and keep the heads in case I did get them to move enough to get a pry bar under them.....
mahgnia: Thought of that....cutting a post square when it is vertical seemed daunting. Maybe not as hard as I thought....dunno
I've already done one stirrup so that would be the odd one out.
Com_VC: Nothing to 'jack' against, that why I made the U bracketted 'pusher'.
Its 1/4" plate and 16mm bolt. Pretty hefty.
malb:Yes, my last idea I had. Will try that. Will try to harden the teeth as well.
Kryn:Sounds a bit heavy to keep horizontal until it tightens up....will think about it...thanks.
Surfinev: Didn't think of using a spacer...thanks. Will try a 13 mm DIY hole saw first and go up if that fails.
Thanks guys.
Steve
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19th Jul 2021, 01:50 AM #9Senior Member
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I'm with mahgnia's suggestion of cutting the post off but if that is a no go, shield the area and put a torch to the bolt head and threads to char the wood around the bolt. Open the holes for bigger bolts or a bushing and the same size bolts.
Pete
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19th Jul 2021, 04:01 AM #10Member
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Drill them out with the 16mm core drill and then plug and redrill to the new bolt size or make up a sleeve to fit both the hole and the bolt. You could possibly use a material like Acetal for the sleeve.
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19th Jul 2021, 09:12 AM #11
Dunno how you’d do this but heat to char around the bolt.
Maybe arc weld some thing onto the bolt head and heat it thru that with the oxy.
Whatever you weld on could then be used to start revolving the bolt to loosen in before drifting it out.
H.Jimcracks for the rich and/or wealthy. (aka GKB '88)
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19th Jul 2021, 01:04 PM #12Diamond Member
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But for the conductive stirrup, you could connect a welder to each end of the bolt and heat it up.
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19th Jul 2021, 03:06 PM #13Most Valued Member
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If you have a 1/2" impact gun, I'd be tempted to try welding a nut or short bolt to the head of the bolt and give it a zap and see what happens.
Though I like Rusty's idea of using a welder as it heats the bolt along its length.
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19th Jul 2021, 03:23 PM #14Golden Member
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I've used an air chisel to remove rusted in bolts from an old wooden engine transporter frame.
Remove the nut (unscrew or break), use a 6 or 7mm drill to make a shallow locating dimple in the end of the bolt.
Use the the pointy chisel tip in the dimple to drive the bolt out.
If this fails I'd go with heat as suggested by clear out.
Cheers,
Greg.
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19th Jul 2021, 04:30 PM #15Diamond Member
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