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  1. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    Norwood-ish, Adelaide
    Age
    59
    Posts
    6,540

    Default

    Right. Plan B.
    Here I've folded the step in half for better fit. Doing that allows a better swing but means (probably) unfolding before use. Hinges are the small circles, the larger light blue is the pivot point for the fold out frame. In reality you will probably sneak it out a bit so you can have a frame for it tracing the bodywork and anchoring underneath somewhere. Hope this gives you the function that you want.
    Step 4.JPG
    Second pic is just overlaid on the original sketch
    Step 3.JPG
    Michael

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Wow! Now we are getting somewhere!
    I've since taken some photos of the actual shape of the space and laid under the van a few times to contemplate.... as you do.
    I think a combination or remix pf some of the ideas here might just do it!
    I think folding the step is a great start and occupies the least amount of space. I'm starting to imagine the 2-piece step sliding along a rail (like some heavy-duty draws have). Fitting a screw and motor to that would not be too complex. Next I'm thinking that the outer half of the step could be folded out by a short chain or thin wire rope and spring, and maybe folded in by another. SInce the step is relatively short, I'll experiment with some bits of aluminium treadplate in say 6mm thickness to see if they are strong enough without and with some small lips along the long sides. That would keep the bundle height small.
    I'll keep ruminating and maybe play with some cardboard or timber bits to see what other lightglobes light up....
    Any new ideas will continue to be valuable!
    Thank you to all who have spent their valuable time thus far! Much appreciated!
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    York, North Yorkshire UK
    Posts
    6,439

    Default

    Hi Joe, Guys,

    I used 3 mm aluminium chequer plate, I think what you called "Treadplate" for the step surface on mine. But I did put a length of 1.5 mm square "U" section steel bar underneath from side to side to reduce the flexing when you put your weight on it and prevent any diagonal twist. I actually rolled the front edge of the step so that it looked nice and didn't have a sharp front edge.

    You haven't given any dimensions for the areas that you have to fit this step ! I'm assuming that it is similar to the Transit 280 series van that I used to have. I'm told that the Transit Custom is a similar chassis. Where you show the recess on your picture there is only about 4 inches by 4 inches of space but several feet long.
    Best Regards:
    Baron J.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default solved differently...

    Finally back at home after 5 months away... Had a ball traveling and camping. Got stuck in far North Queensland because of border closures, Pam had an abdominal aortic aneurism op with a replacement with a graft (she's completely recovered!) and helping our son in Kuranda move into and fix up his first house (65 year old Queenslander).
    Had a couple of repairs on route: replaced EGR valve, replaced front wheel bearings and replaced 3x100Ah lead batteries with one 280Ah LiFePh4 battery that I built - what a difference! Also left our step behind somewhere AGAIN. So this project came back to the top for priority once we got home....

    After considering all options suggested here, and after lifting the van by 50mm for better ground clearance, we came to the conclusion that we wanted TWO steps... That made the original idea unfeasible. What I ended up doing was to build steps that folded into the door way, where they aren't in the way when they are not needed.
    IMAG0002.jpg IMAG0007.jpg IMAG0009.jpg IMAG0014.jpg IMAG0013.jpg

    Next thing I will fit a winch, because we got stuck a couple of times while camping (wet grass slope and mud). Got the winch, will design a good mounting platform behind the bullbar now. Anyone ever worked out a way of having a front mounted winch pull from the back as well? I'm thinking about a couple of pulleys and maybe a poly pipe and a fairlead at the back....
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    moonbi nsw Aus
    Age
    69
    Posts
    364

    Default

    Joe, if you were to put a towing ball at the front to plop the winch on there and when wanting a rear pull just take the winch to the rear tow ball. OK you will have to use longer leads but it will be an easy way to use the winch. If for some reason you need a side pull, well you can do that as well
    Just do it!

    Kind regards Rod

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chambezio View Post
    Joe, if you were to put a towing ball at the front to plop the winch on there and when wanting a rear pull just take the winch to the rear tow ball. OK you will have to use longer leads but it will be an easy way to use the winch. If for some reason you need a side pull, well you can do that as well
    That was actually my first thought too. However, this is a 13000lb winch and too big to store inside the van and too heavy to lug around....
    I will have to mount it permanently behind the bull bar....
    IMG_20190529_111121.jpg
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Near Bendigo, Victoria, AUS
    Age
    72
    Posts
    3,102

    Default

    Not sure if I had put up any pics of my movable motorbike rack on the back of the Van...
    IMG_20190508_134619.jpg IMG_20190519_170512.jpg IMG_20190530_160054.jpg IMG_20190701_140254 (2).jpg
    It has proven itself to be convenient and stable for two very long trips now. The little ('81 CT110) Postie Bike weighs around 96kg and swings out quite easily. The hinge is fabricated.
    Cheers, Joe
    retired - less energy, more time to contemplate projects and more shed time....

  8. #23
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Murray Bridge S Aust.
    Age
    71
    Posts
    5,942

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by jhovel View Post
    Next thing I will fit a winch, because we got stuck a couple of times while camping (wet grass slope and mud). Got the winch, will design a good mounting platform behind the bullbar now. Anyone ever worked out a way of having a front mounted winch pull from the back as well? I'm thinking about a couple of pulleys and maybe a poly pipe and a fairlead at the back....
    Hi Joe, thanks for the pic on how you solved you step problem.
    I've had to winch myself backwards on a couple of occasions, not bogged but lack of traction. The way I did it was to remove the cable from the roller fairlead and run it under the vehicle diffs and out the back. Because if you tried to run it through the fairlead and under the vehicle, you'd end up bending the bull bar as the cable would try to go the shortest distance.
    Another option, replace the roller at the bottom of the fairlead with a large diameter roller, so that the cable won't damage the bar.
    You could run a short length of cable from front to rear in some sort of roller system, so that it can be connected to the main cable and then pulled through. But remember, the eye and connection at the end of the cable, will need to be able to pass through what ever is supporting the rollers, and the supports will need to be strong, as a winch can and I believe has happened, that a vehicle can be crushed by the winch.
    If you do go this route, be sure to connect an isolator to the winch, so that some little hell spawn doesn't pull the cable out, up over the roof and attach it to the back of your vehicle, and with a paper clip, set it going to crush your camper.
    I had my controller mounted under the bonnet to be safe.
    HTH
    Kryn
    To grow old is mandatory, growing up is optional.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Helensburgh
    Posts
    618

    Default

    There used to be an saying, winches should always be mounted on the back as no one in their right mind wants to get further into a bog. The only ones I have seen that winch both ways were mid mounted on old army trucks and when the shear pin broke you had to dig your way in to change it, not a pleasant task at all.
    CHRIS

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2017
    Location
    Geelong, Australia
    Age
    57
    Posts
    2,651

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    Hopefully not trying to tell you how to suck eggs, and if it is, then maybe someone else will get something out of it!

    Winching/traction...
    No idea if you've ever done any 4WD or offroad driving, but in regards to traction - basically the higher your tyre pressures the less traction you have, and in a lot of situations simply dropping your tyre pressures significantly can get you mobile.
    The issue is you need to reinflate them afterwards - so unless you're in a logging truck with a central inflation system you need to carry a compressor. If you're not in a hurry then it doesn't need to be a huge output compressor - just a decent one that will keep plugging away and not go into Chinese overheat/meltdown mode after running flat out for 10mins.
    They have other good uses too - like blowing out air filters or cleaning the carbie on the postie bike - and even pumping up tyres that have deflated by themselves!!
    I know you've already got the winch and there's definitely a place for that, but just making sure you're aware of the tyre pressure option.

    I've scratched my head a bit about it, and pretty much what yourself and Kryn have already mentioned about running the winch rope under the van with some fairleads and pulleys etc is about the only way I can think of too.

    The more I think about it the less I'd be inclined to do it though I reckon.
    Depending on whether you're running steel or synthetic rope will make some differences too - wire won't be too worried about running past a bracket underneath, whereas its likely to destroy synthetic rope (but synthetic is lighter and potentially safer to use).
    There are other things too - you can't easily steer to follow a rear rope so unless you get a dead straight pull the load on the winch will be higher, and with the length of the van will lose you about 7m of rope from going underneath.
    You need a significant bit of something to attach a big winch to - which often isn't available (or is about 2m further than your rope will reach). Before you know it you've got a bunch of winch related stuff going on with shackles, snatch blocks, extension straps/ropes etc etc if you're trying to make sure you always have options.
    Personally I'd be looking at other options like tyre pressures and potentially even carrying traction aids - recovery boards (such as MaxTrax) or even some chains before I seriously considered setting up for rear winching.

    Finally, if your van is a front wheel drive one - don't forget that front wheel drive has less traction going uphill than rear wheel drive due to weight transfer. Reversing up a slope can often be more successful than driving forwards.

    Steve

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Melbourne
    Posts
    4,779

    Default

    Hi Joe,

    Some people mount their winch so that it is demountable and can be removed and fitted to the rear as required.

    Sounds like a practical idea but it does require quite a bit of engineering to make that work. Certainly easier on the rear because many have the tow hitch to attach to. Making a removable winch on the front would be a challenge.

    I've been 4x4ing most of my adult life and could never really afford/justify a quality winch, so I just tried really hard not to get bogged!

    Easier said than done! I am getting better at making these judgement calls as I get older though.

    I reckon 1 or 2 sets of Max traxs (or similar) as mentioned will go a long way to getting you out on most occasions along with lower pressures and perhaps a more aggressive tread pattern such as an all terrain type tyre.

    See you on the open road!

    Edit: when are you recovering your rig from the Simpson Desert? Design problem: I'm looking for help

    Simon

    Sent from a galaxy far far away
    Girl, I don't wanna know about your mild-mannered alter ego or anything like that." I mean, you tell me you're, uh, super-mega-ultra-lightning babe? That's all right with me. I'm good. I'm good.

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