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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
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    nsw
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    Question Air Compressor and fixed air lines recommendations for shed fitout

    Hi all,
    It's time to replace the crappy portable air compressor with a fully plumbed setup in the shed. I'm looking to put about 7-10 outlets around the shed, connected back to a decent compressor that can deliver as much air as I'm likely to need.
    The budget is about $2500.
    My requirements currently:
    - fixed air lines routed along walls/ceiling dropping down to outlets I space along the shed.
    - longest run from compressor to outlet will be about 22m
    - fittings/setup that doesn't leak (I hate inefficient setups). I don't want to use push-on fittings that will gradually bleed air, if there's a better solution please advise.
    - compressor will be inside the shed, and cannot be enclosed in a sound-proof housing, so it needs to be QUIET.
    - as much FAD as I can get (ideally to run 2x tools at the same time if possible), even at point furthest from compressor (22m away)
    - decent water trap/drier solution so I can use any outlet for spray painting without air in the line.


    I was thinking of buying one of these Chicago Air HUSH100 Silenced 100L Air Compressor from Sydney Tools, as they seem to be very quiet, and are oilless so no oil atomisation in the shed. But I've no idea about air tool requirements, and don't know if this machine would deliver enough air at the furthest point (22m away)?
    It appears that belt driven ones seem to quote higher FAD than this unit, but I want the compressor, if possible, to be REAL quiet, and I'm thinking that a belt driven compressor will be louder than that Chicago Air Silenced unit??

    To be honest, I know bugger all about compressed air setups, but I don't want to go to the trouble of setting up a fixed installation in the shed, to find it doesn't deliver more air than I need at any point I want to use it, now, and in the future. Also I don't want to shell out ~$2k for a compressor, to find it's noisy as hell.


    I know it sounds like a I want to have my cake and eat it too (who doesn't), but if you guys can suggest either a better compressor, or what types of air lines and fittings, then I'd love to hear your recommendations.

  2. #2
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Perth
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    7,182

    Default

    I have a 7 outlet system with compressor outside shed,

    with
    water condensing coil,
    https://metalworkforums.com/f309/t20...-3#post1947793

    3 point auto water venting system
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f271/...-system-227856

    and electronically monitored desiccant water trap.
    https://metalworkforums.com/f309/t20...compressed-air
    or
    https://www.woodworkforums.com/f245/.../4#post2124056

    I used 1/2" BSP galv (~16 mm ID pipe) because I already had most of the junctions etc but I would not do that again, instead I would use plastic pressure pipe and Philmac fittings.
    To maximize FAD it pays to use at least 1/2" ID pipe, hose, junctions and fittings.

    I used cheap push on end hose fittings of whatever size I could find on special at places like supercheapout but later changed to Hi-cupla Nitto fittings.
    You need to be careful selecting your plugs and socket sizes
    They come in 10, 17, 20, 30 and 40 sizes to suit different size hoses - to optimise flow rates some homework is needed before you invest
    details here. https://www.nitto-kohki.eu/images/st...p_hi_cupla.pdf
    There are some very fancy fittings available such as the one-touch fitting but they start to get very expensive.

    I got mine through Blackwoods and they were not as expensive as I thought they would be.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
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    Mackay North Qld
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    6,446

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    Hi ,
    Welcome to the MetalWork Forums.


    There are a wide range of helpful members here and good blokes they are, too.

    We have a large range of subforums related to metalworking which can be perused by going to the rectangular FORUM box in the top left hand corner of the page.

    Click on the tiny arrow within that box and a scroll down menu will appear.

    Select Forum Home on the top of the scroll down menu and a page will appear which you can scroll down to see the sub forums .

    While there I recommend you read the TOUs, the Terms Of Use which are the rules we operate under.


    Welcome

    Grahame
    Moderator

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vic
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    48
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    544

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    I am using the 25mm Vinidex pipe and fittings from Bunnings, it has been 7 years.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
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    Southern Flinders Ranges
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    Your expectations/requirements are unachievable for your stated budget.

  6. #6
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Unless the OP states their specific air requirements it's impossible to answer your questions.
    It won't be sufficient to just answer in general terms eg spray painting, impact wrench but you will have to look at each specific.
    Also bear in mind that air tool manufacturers tend to understate air requirements and compressor manufacturers (especially budget end ) tend to overstand outputs.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    melbourne australia
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    3,228

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    Quote Originally Posted by TimberNut View Post
    I was thinking of buying one of these Chicago Air HUSH100 Silenced 100L Air Compressor from Sydney Tools..
    I listened to the twin motor version of that last week. It was pretty quiet, but would still be annoying listening to it for hours at a time. I'd still want to put it in some sort of enclosure.
    Chris

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Perth, Western Australia
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    362

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    Quote Originally Posted by racingtadpole View Post
    Your expectations/requirements are unachievable for your stated budget.
    That basically covers it.

    Most spray guns need at least 10 to 14 cfm min to operate effectively. Tools like sanders, die grinders impact guns need 14 to 16 cfm to keep them running contentiously without any stop start procedure.

    Cannot remember flow rates of the top of my head but if you want to run two tools 22m from the compessor (or that should be compressors) look at 3/4" ID line the length of the shed and then run 1/2" id down to to each outlet.
    For me each outlet should have a filter reg setup. With this max pressure can be run on main line then the reg can be set for what is needed for the tool in use.
    Push fit is the only way to go. Half of my set has been in over 20 years and still hold air fine. It does leak down over three days at the moment but I made some changes a couple of weeks ago and have not run a suds test to find the leak.

    As mentioned by others, under estimate what the compressor will supply and over estimate what tools need to run.
    Nothing worse than stop-starting when using air tools.

    Tony

  9. #9
    BobL is offline Member: Blue and white apron brigade
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    Quote Originally Posted by jack620 View Post
    I listened to the twin motor version of that last week. It was pretty quiet, but would still be annoying listening to it for hours at a time. I'd still want to put it in some sort of enclosure.
    The specs say 70dB, but not at what distance.
    This is about the same as what my (conventional) compressor noise is inside my shed with the compressor located outside in an enclosure - I did no sound proofing between the comp enclosure and the shed wall.
    70db is reasonable, not dangerous for hearing but annoyance factor depends on what frequencies are involved.
    What compressor noise comes through the shed wall is a low rumble and I find it far less annoying than the 62dB emitted by one of my older VFDs.
    Annoyance depends on what else you are doing, if that activity is noisy the other noise can be less annoying but if you are doing something quiet it can really irritate.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
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    Timbernut, I have been looking into plumbing my shed for some time. I have compared the likes of RapidAir to using copper. The cost was in the favour of copper for the mutli-outlet system I wanted but somebody told me a few days ago that copper prices have shot up.

    As far as my research has shown, you cannot go too big on your lines (other than extra cost) but you can definitely go too small.

    The condensor coil that BobL has set up is great - I have thought of something similar or getting carried away and designing something with an old window mount A/C.

    As for the air compressor itself, I have looked at the Chicago Silent Air ones and will probably go that way. I want to buy a new compressor once so want one with the max FAD as possible - again, better to oversize than undersize.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    Canberra
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    I went through this process a few months back. Used 20mm PEX pipe and push-in fittings from Bunnings. Very easy and quick to install and modify, seems to hold pressure.

    I bought a Stanley "silent" compressor from Supercheap - they claim 62dB @ 5m - I might test that with my phone, but it is by no means silent.
    https://www.supercheapauto.com.au/p/...nk/590975.html
    They go on sale once in a while.

    As I mentioned back in another thread, there's another compressor in a shed about 15m away - at some point I'll dig a trench across and join the two together, which should pretty much double the available air delivery.

  12. #12
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    I have an older 2012 model of the compressor the OP is looking at. 4motor 150l tank version. It’s quieter, but I wouldn’t say it’s ‘REAL Quiet’ as the OP is asking for. Mine was quoted at 67db at 1m, and realistically it’s probably somewhere close to that, I’ve never measured it.
    Its also not big enough to run multiple high demand air tools at once.

  13. #13
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    Hey guys,


    As I stated in my first post, I don't know a lot about compressed air systems, hence the original post. Maybe if I phrase my question differently it might help.
    If you had $2.5k to spend on a new compressor, and routing air lines through a shed of the size of mine what would be the optimum setup you think you could achieve? And if the budget doesn't get what I've outlined I'd hoped to achieve, then what would you change? Should I allocate a bigger budget, or rethink what compressor I should get (and if so, what would YOU get if you were willing to spend that kind of money, or somewhere close to it?).


    All I know is my 40L single piston compressor is as noisy as hell, and plumbing a fixed air line through the shed, with multiple outlets sounds like a good idea to me. Never having closely inspected any shed where someone's done that, I don't really know where to start. So any advice that gives me more knowledge than I have now, would be helpful. Would I be better off with an entirely different choice of compressor (belt drive perhaps?) - do you get better 'bang for your buck' with them? But what is the trade-off? How noisy are they? Any suggestions for an air compressor around that kind of $$ (say $1.5k - $2k region)?

  14. #14
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    Apr 2019
    Location
    Adelaide
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    The heart of any compressed air system is the compressor/storage tank. To work out what size compressor and what size tank you need you first have to establish the total CFM requirement of the 2 most thirsty (CFM) hand tools that you are likely to use together. From there you will know how much you need to spend on your compressor.

    Then you need to look at the air line system. The max instantaneous CFM requirement and the length of the pipework will determine the ID of that pipework. The type of pipe is personal choice vs cost.

    If you then want to dry the air you will need to consider what method - condensing systems (a la BobL or maybe an intercooler setup) or refrigerant drying systems ($$$).

    The number of drops is determined by machine location and desired convenience. It also impacts the system set-up cost.

    You have some homework to do before you can start designing your system. Good luck.

    PS -personnally I would not trust a 2nd hand compressor as a rusty tank can produce an "earth shattering kaboom".

  15. #15
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    Aug 2011
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    Perth, Western Australia
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    A couple of questions.
    What sort of tooling are you looking at using.
    Is this for a home setup or commercial operation? (two tool usage has me asking)
    Power available, 240 or 415 volt?
    Is the area straight walled or are there lots of corners, beams and other things to go around when installing the lines.

    Tony

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